95vr6man

hey guys, im back to my old project which i gave up on a few monthes ago cuz i got so mad at it i couldnt continue lol. here is my problem... the car will not start, i get no CEL light, the main relay works and the fuel pump primes. i have no spark and no fuel. i have went through every pin according to every pinout i can find and everything that is supposed to have power, has power and same for ground. i have tried multiple known good ECUs and still nothing. i have checked my grounds with a multimeter and all are known good, and clean and tight (includeing the thermostat ground)

my setup includes:
89 civic STD hatch
d16y8 motor with obd2 dist
the full engine harness was made by rywire so i know thats good
the ecu is obd1


i know, obd0, obd1, and obd2 all in the same car just spells trouble but ive triple checked everything and cant figure it out.

its looks as if the ECU itself is not turning on because there is no check light when the key is turned but it has power. is there a chance my ground wires are not large enough? would that still show ground at the ecu but not actually be enough current? i dont know thats why im coming for you all for help. im about to give up on this project. thanks for any help you can give me


EDIT: also, i have checked all fuses many times. they are all good and have power when they are supposed to.


!!REWARD!!

i will paypal 15 bucks to whoever figures out the problem with this car!
(i know, kinda desperate but i need as much help as i can get.. )


Modified by 95vr6man at 9:55 PM 9/6/2006

josueHB

check the start switch on the clutch the lil nub on the clutch pedal falls off and the switch wont tap happened to 3 cars already

95vr6man

yea i checked that, sorry i forgot to mention that the motor will crank just fine as well, just no spark or fuel


Modified by 95vr6man at 6:20 AM 9/6/2006

Coupe-R

dunno why no fuel, how can u be certain?

when u turn the ignition on can u hear the fuel pump prime and then the CEL should click and go out.
Hmmm something is wrong with your wiring if it doesn't do that

if it does that then ill bet its the coil in ur dizzy thats gone

95vr6man

well the ecu doesnt even kick on, and have tried multiple ecus, i know there is no fuel cuz there is no injector pulse (tested with a light at the clips) when trying to start the car

95vr6man

ok im now offering a $15 reward to whoever solves this problem, and i AM good for it and i will pay you. thanks!

FaceTuned

iTrader: (4)

okay i got the answer i had someone trying to convert to obd1 and couldnt get there **** started so what i did was put a 88-91 si dizz on there and a 90-91 pm6 kept the obd1 injectors and fire it right up, works perfect for me. okay i want my 15 bucks mister lol

95vr6man

haha yea that sounds good but isnt my problem, my problem is the fact that my ecu wont even turn on, man i would rather have dizzy problems any day of the week than an ecu that wont power up. no CEL.. EVER. it sucks. i know somebody has to know this though.

does the ecu maybe require a sensor ground or something that isnt in the standard pinouts? ive tested everything according to the obd1 pinouts on this website and the manual and everything reads perfect.

update: ive tried 3 known working ECUs now that still work in other cars with no luck

95vr6man

come on guys, i know somebody wants 15 bucks....

lightcrx

what did rywire do? just dpfi to mpfi then a jumper?

every one makes mistakes, you should test the harness... where you from?

-joseph

95vr6man

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lightcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what did rywire do? just dpfi to mpfi then a jumper?

every one makes mistakes, you should test the harness... where you from?

-joseph </TD></TR></TABLE>


pretty much.. well actually the whole harness except the dash. he did all the obd2 dist and all that stuff too. what on the harness should i check? when i tested power and ground at the ecu i checked AT the ecu itself, same with all the sensors and they were all giving me their respective resistances and power/ground

Mike@CCT

Have you tried switching out the main relay?

nasteboyii

if i had to guess iw ould say its a wiring issue with ECU, so recheck the one rywire did.

basically it sounds like ecu is not getting power which would BE a wiring issue

good luck

d

schardbody

how bout check all your underhood and underdash FUSES, which should have been one of the first things done, but not mentioned.

what ECU are you running??? what injectors, and what dizzy...

lightcrx

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nasteboyii &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if i had to guess iw ould say its a wiring issue with ECU, so recheck the one rywire did.

basically it sounds like ecu is not getting power which would BE a wiring issue

good luck

d</TD></TR></TABLE>

i agree. i cant really help cuz its not in my hands ya know, one of tho's you gotta be there kinda things

-joseph

95vr6man

thanks guys but according to the pinout on this site everything that is supposed to have power has power, same with the ground, i will post the pinout and show what im talkin about. oh and i have checked the fuses many times as i put in the very first post, its in the "EDIT:" part thats prolly why u overlooked it. ill get that pinout up soon. does the ecu rely on any sensor grounds that it uses for a ground? thanks for the help so far

EDIT: here is what i was useing to compare to when testing.... its out of the FAQ ecu thread


KEY:
(Wire color), (Function/Description (if need be)), (Voltage Value (DC Volts Unless otherwise specified)
V = Volts
Wht = White
Blk = Black
Grn = Green
Yel = Yellow
Brn = Brown
Blu = Blue
Org = Orange

KOEO = Key on; Engine OFF
KOER = Key on; Engine Running

OBD1
A1-INJ1 INJ1 Brown, Battery Voltage with KOEO no power
A2-INJ4 INJ4 Yellow, Battery Voltage with KOEO no power
A3-INJ2 INJ2 Red, Battery Voltage with KOEO no power
A4-VTS VTEC solenoid GRN/YEL, N/a
A5-INJ3 INJ3 Blue, Battery Voltage with KOEO no power
A6-PO2SHTC O2 sensor (heating element) Org/Wht, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A7-FLR1 fuel pump Grn/BLK, Battery Voltage with KOEO has power
A8-empty A7 and A8 have the same circurt, so they can be the same
A9-IACV IAC valve Blk/Blu, About 10v KOEO on Warm engine
A10-empty
A11- This is EGR Control Solenoid Valve (if the ECU has) Red, N/A
A12-FANC engine coolant temp switch Blu/red, N/A
A13-MIL MIL (check engine light) Blu/wht, N/A
A14-empty
A15-ACC (a/c compressor clutch) Red/Blu, N/A
A16-ALT C alternator Wht/Grn, N/A
A17-IAB IAB Solenoid Pink, N/A
A18- Org/Red, Transmission Control Module (A/T), N/A
A19- White, Intake control solenoid, Battery Voltage with KOEO has power
A20-PCS EVAP purge control solenoid Red/Grn, N/a
A21-ICM ICM Yel/Grn, Ignition Control Module (ICM) Output signal, About 10V KOEO i think this has power but i cant remember, ill double check and update
A22- *per Sander* Ignitor same as A21
A23-PG1 ground Black, Power ground, less than 1V
A24-PG2 ground same as A23
A25-IGP2 to main relay and to gound for o Yel/blk, Battery positive from Main relay, Battery Voltage with KOEO has power
A26-LG1 gound Blk/red, less than 1V

B1-IGP2 to pin A25 Yel/Blk, Battery positive from Main relay, Battery Voltage with KOEO has power
B2-LG2 ground to shields for CYP & TDC Brown/Blk, Less than 1V
B3- Orange, upshift/downshift comparative input, N/A
B4- Pink, upshift/downshift comparative input, N/A
B5-ACS a/c switch Blu/Blk, A/c input, About 5V with KOEO & A/C off; less than 1V KOER with A/C & blower on
B6-empty
B7- Light green, Park/Neutral switch (A/T), Less than 1V in Park or Neutral with KOEO; 5V in Park or neutral with KOER; Battery voltage in all other positions
B8-PSPSW PSP switch Red/Green, Power steering oil pressure switch, 0V KOEO; Battery Voltage KOER While slowly turning steering wheel
B9-STARTER SIGNAL starter signal Blue/red, Battery Voltage in the START position (clutch depressed on M/T models) i cant remember if i checked this one, ill update
B10-VSS vehicle speed sensor Orange, Pulses 0-12V while turning the left front wheel
B11-CYP P CYP -P Orange, CYP sensor input, N/A
B12-CYP M CYP -M White, CYP sensor signal, N/A
B13-TDC P TDC -P Org/Blue, TDC sensor input, N/A
B14-TDC M TDC -M Wht/Blue, TDC sensor signal, N/A
B15-CKP P CKP -P Blu/Green, CKP Sensor input, N/A
B16-CKP M CKP -M Blu/yel, CKP Sensor signal, N/A

D1-VBU Back Up Power Wht/Yel, Battery positive From battery through Fuse Box, Battery Voltage at ALL times has power
D2-BKSW brake switch Grn/wht, Battery voltage at all times im gonna have to go back and check this as well
D3-KS Knock Sensor Red/Blue, N/A
D4-SCS service check connector Brown/Wht, About 5V (M/T); About 11V (A/T)
D5-empty
D6-VTM VTEC pressure switch Light Blue, N/A
D7-TXD/RXD (data link connector) Light Green/Red, N/A
D8-empty
D9-ALT F alternator Wht/Red, Alternator Charging Signal, About 4.5V KOEO; Decreases under Electrical load (Headlights & rear defogger on) At warm idle
D10-ELD electric load detector input Grn/Blk, N/A
D11-TPS TPS Signal Red/Blk, About 0.5V KOEO with throttle fully closed; About 4.5V KOEO with throttle fully open
D12- Wht/Blk, EGR Valve Lift sensor, About 1.2V KOEO
D13-ECT ECT sensor input Yel/Blu, About 5V KOEO (varies with temperature)
D14-PHO2S O2 sensor White, heated 02 sensor Signal, 0.4-0.5V when ignition is turned on; drops to less than 0.1V within 2 minutes
D15-IAT IAT sensor Red/Yel, Intake Air Temperature signal, .05-4.5V KOEO(Varies with temperature)
D16-VREF VREF shows BLANK on my diagram
D17-MAP Map Signal Wht/Blu, About 3V KOEO (Varies with Temperature)
D18- Light Green/Blk, Transmission Control Module (A/T Only), N/A
D19 - Red/Wht, Reference Voltage, About 5V KOEO
D20 - Yel/Wht, Reference Voltage, About 5V KOEO
D21 - Blue/Wht, Sensor ground, Less than 1V
D22 - Green/Wht, Sensor ground, Less than 1V


its been a while since ive tested this so im gonna go back tonight and mark off a list. anything else you think needs power that im not testing yet please list


also, everything that says ground has ground as well... im thinking maybe my ground wires are getting too much resistance maybe? what should i see as resistance between the ecu grounds and the battery? any input is great. thanks!


Modified by 95vr6man at 10:59 AM 9/8/2006


Modified by 95vr6man at 4:54 PM 9/8/2006


Modified by 95vr6man at 6:19 PM 9/9/2006

92redhatch

check your fuses. if you have a blown fuse then that means you have a short somewhere. If not, then check all your grounds.

d162000civic

check ur groun wires.

95vr6man

ok update....

ive replaced my main ground wires with all new 4gauge wire and added some others as well, cleaned all grounding contacts for every ground in the car, the grounds at the ecu read almost 0 resitance from the frame which is better than most cars ive seen and tested for comparison.

ok so there is power and ground, why will the ecu not come on? i know its something simple but i cant figure it out for the life of me.

oh and yes ive checked the fuses over and over agian, but they still shouldnt matter anyway cuz the ecu has power and it wouldnt have power if a fuse was blown.


i just want this car to run so if anybody has any input i would greatly appreciate it. thanks.

FaceTuned

iTrader: (4)

okay you have jumper harnes check pin a25 thats a power the comes from the main relay see if you have power there. and then to clear you up if the main relays not there or is no good the ecu wont get power remember you get power to the main relay and then ecu a25 goes to main relay and a26 is a ground and a22.23 are grounds as well just check those, thats the wires that powers your ecu.