TexSol

Here's hoping Ron will chime in here. Sorry it's long, but I wanted people to know I at least searched and tried (A LOT) before crumbling upon my first post:

I bought a del sol si with a d15b2 in it. I don't know what happened to the original vtec motor. Bought a D16Z6 and swapped it in, but have solid cel and no cranking (it comes on, goes out, then solid normally, diagnose code only throws 6). I've seen you say check thermostat housing and other grounds a thousand times; then I started doing checklists.

The issue I believe has to deal with the MAP sensor (due to continuity between body ground terminals d19 and d20). I used the one from the D15. Strange thing: it wasn't mounted to the firewall, it was on the throttle body like d16's so I took the whole throttle body. It has the red yellow vtec wire in it, but I struggled to find continuity between this and d19. (Also, no priming of fuel pump even after jumping main relay terminals 1/7 or 5/7).

It's a SI per the vin, so this should be the same motor originally in it. Furthermore, I'm using the same harness and ecu (p28) the d15 ran on (fuel pump never moved). I'm doubting my multimeter abilities more than losing continuity on a wire that didn't really move. IDK why I can't get this thing to at least crank.

Former User

Terminology:
Crank = starter turns motor

Are you saying the starter does not crank the engine? If so, can you push start it?

TexSol

I would assume not based on the fuel pump not priming, but I haven't tried. The starter does not crank the engine (second starter; tried both directly wired to button instead of ignition). It doesn't crank and the cel 0 was telling me bad ground / ecu. Diagnose mode only throws code 6. . .

TexSol

Also, thanks for the super fast reply.

Former User

When the starter does not crank and the fuel pump does not prime, the cause is generally a disconnected, loose, or corroded G3 transmission ground.

TexSol

Right, but the starter is a button that should work without even the key being in (but without fuel of course). Checked the ground again for arguments sake: resistance between the bolt heads and bolt ends was .001 (the one on the tranny bracket and the mount to the body). Both are tight nearly to the point of stripping.

Any idea on lack of continuity between d19 and map sensor? Did the ecu maybe not require the vtec wire for the d15b2 and allowed it to run?

Former User

A bad map sensor or ECU circuit would not prevent the starter from cranking the engine.

What is the resistance between the starter body and the negative battery post?

What is the resistance between the G101 ground bolt and the negative battery post?

When you press the starter button, does battery voltage reach the starter solenoid bolt?

Does battery voltage reach the starter motor bolt?

TexSol

A bad map sensor or ECU circuit would not prevent the starter from cranking the engine.
^This is good to know

What is the resistance between the starter body and the negative battery post?
.001

What is the resistance between the G101 ground bolt and the negative battery post?
.001 as well

When you press the starter button, does battery voltage reach the starter solenoid bolt?
Yes. Even without the key due to direct line

Does battery voltage reach the starter motor bolt?
No. Maybe I'm using the wrong bolt? I got very low voltage, that increases marginally when starter pressed (.3-.4 ~ .02-.03 on the 20V scale). I'm guessing this is my issue? This is the starter I stole from the d15 that worked. . .

Former User

The starter solenoid gets voltage on the small Blk/Wht wire, where voltage is controlled by the button (voltage only when button is pressed).

The starter motor gets voltage on the large black wire from the battery. It should have battery voltage at all times. If it doesn't, that's the reason for the no-crank problem.

TexSol

The black and white wire is the one giving these readings above:
very low voltage, that increases marginally when starter pressed (.3-.4 ~ .02-.03 on the 20V scale

The larger one from the battery constantly has battery voltage.

So starter solenoid? Still the same working one from the d15 tho. . .

Former User

That's the wire for the starter solenoid. Does the voltage rise to battery voltage when the button is pressed? Does your starter button get battery voltage? How did you install the button? Post a clear description with pictures.

kwijibodavid

you didnt snag the harness when u took it off the d15 did u might of broke a wire or almost brock a wire i sudgest u trace the starter wires back and look for breaks or rips

TexSol

Word. Crappy button install. Spliced wires and got the starter to kick. Gawd awful sound; which made me think I have a bad motor. When everything was out I made sure it spun (the motor from flywheel side and from crank side). Just cranked on the crank pulley bolt and it (flywheel) wouldn't budge cw. Would the ecu throw a new code for this by any chance?

The clutch has felt weird, and has an audible click. Could this or a bad tranny altogether cause this? Or did I really buy a bad motor?

Former User

Post a video with sound when you crank the engine. Or are you saying the engine is now seized? Is the transmission in neutral when you crank the engine?

Is the ECU still throwing CEL code 0? Does the fuel pump prime?

delsolintegra

Is the clutch interlock safety switch plastic button in place or was this bypassed by the push button starter system?

You know we've seen that posted disgram a hundred times.