Newbie with P0505 and Power door lock problems - solutions posted
#1
Newbie with P0505 and Power door lock problems - solutions posted
First off Congrats on the site, very informative. I've managed to fix most of my problems by sifting through posts on your site and figured I would register so I could share my lessons learned...
Just bought this 2000 Civic EX 4 door for my daughter with a crazy amount of miles but the rest of the car was immaculate so I couldn't pass it up for the price.
Initial problems: (1) P0505 - Idle control system malfunction, (2) Drivers door locks intermittent, (3) Dead Battery, (4) Wipers extremely slow.
(1) P0505 - Symptoms first - Fluctuating idle once car was warmed up. Plus Hi idle around 1500. Occassional bucking while driving at slow speeds and rpms under 2000.
Things I found and checked - IACV resistance checks and mechancial were good. TPS voltages and resistances were good. Checked for vacuum leaks, didn't find any. ECT Sensor resistance verified once car was warmed up.
In the end this is what I did, bought a complete throttle body from the junkyard. Built one IACV out of the original and used one. Even though they both tested the same and were mechanically the same. And sprayed the crap out of both the IACV and every port of the throttle body with throttle body cleaner. I believe my problem was just dirt or carbon build up. So I would ensure everything is very clean prior to running out for parts.
(2) Power door locks - my problem was the drivers door would not open from the inside or out. Even though you could hear the actuator. My point here is that I read a post about getting the door panel off without opening the door. Just to confirm, it is possible. Yes I got the panel off with the door closed without destroying the panel. Discovered the complete assy is in rough shape, corroded and rusty. Plan on replacing the complete assy.
(3) Dead Battery - self explanatory - replaced with one from the junkyard, but I suggest you have them load test it, just to be sure.
(4) Wiper motor - Wipers quit on one of my test drives while trying to resolve P0505. Discovered the linkage was broken and the motor was in the process on separating from the gear housing. Very easy to replace, but the problem I ran into was not all '96-'00 Wiper Motor Assy are the same. After research there is 3 different types. Just good to know.
After this long winded post, I suggest you read and do your research, believe me, you probably not the first person to experience your problem. There is a lot of experience within this site, but be careful to sift thru some of the BS. The answer is out there. Thanks again. Great site.
Just bought this 2000 Civic EX 4 door for my daughter with a crazy amount of miles but the rest of the car was immaculate so I couldn't pass it up for the price.
Initial problems: (1) P0505 - Idle control system malfunction, (2) Drivers door locks intermittent, (3) Dead Battery, (4) Wipers extremely slow.
(1) P0505 - Symptoms first - Fluctuating idle once car was warmed up. Plus Hi idle around 1500. Occassional bucking while driving at slow speeds and rpms under 2000.
Things I found and checked - IACV resistance checks and mechancial were good. TPS voltages and resistances were good. Checked for vacuum leaks, didn't find any. ECT Sensor resistance verified once car was warmed up.
In the end this is what I did, bought a complete throttle body from the junkyard. Built one IACV out of the original and used one. Even though they both tested the same and were mechanically the same. And sprayed the crap out of both the IACV and every port of the throttle body with throttle body cleaner. I believe my problem was just dirt or carbon build up. So I would ensure everything is very clean prior to running out for parts.
(2) Power door locks - my problem was the drivers door would not open from the inside or out. Even though you could hear the actuator. My point here is that I read a post about getting the door panel off without opening the door. Just to confirm, it is possible. Yes I got the panel off with the door closed without destroying the panel. Discovered the complete assy is in rough shape, corroded and rusty. Plan on replacing the complete assy.
(3) Dead Battery - self explanatory - replaced with one from the junkyard, but I suggest you have them load test it, just to be sure.
(4) Wiper motor - Wipers quit on one of my test drives while trying to resolve P0505. Discovered the linkage was broken and the motor was in the process on separating from the gear housing. Very easy to replace, but the problem I ran into was not all '96-'00 Wiper Motor Assy are the same. After research there is 3 different types. Just good to know.
After this long winded post, I suggest you read and do your research, believe me, you probably not the first person to experience your problem. There is a lot of experience within this site, but be careful to sift thru some of the BS. The answer is out there. Thanks again. Great site.
#3
Re: Newbie with P0505 and Power door lock problems
Welcome.
I think many members would be very interested in knowing the details about how you accomplished this^.
...my problem was the drivers door would not open from the inside or out. Even though you could hear the actuator. My point here is that I read a post about getting the door panel off without opening the door. Just to confirm, it is possible. Yes I got the panel off with the door closed without destroying the panel.
#4
Re: Newbie with P0505 and Power door lock problems - solutions posted
Having a hard time posting a reply maybe I don't have enough rites yet.
Anyway here goes again.
With all the screws, speaker, inner door handle removed.
The only thing holding the panel to the door should be the plastic clips.
I used a wonder bar (flat wide crow bar) along the edge of the panel along with a 1/4' piece of plywood so I wouldn't mark the panel.
I gently pryed at the approx locations of the clips, starting down the latch side and across the bottom. You won't be able to get the front clip off because of the dash. From there I was able apply enough pressure by prying and lifting to release the front clip and the panel was in my hands without a mark. Yes you have to bend and pry a little but go easy and this can be done without destroying anything. Hope this helps anyone, who gets in this mess.
Anyway here goes again.
With all the screws, speaker, inner door handle removed.
The only thing holding the panel to the door should be the plastic clips.
I used a wonder bar (flat wide crow bar) along the edge of the panel along with a 1/4' piece of plywood so I wouldn't mark the panel.
I gently pryed at the approx locations of the clips, starting down the latch side and across the bottom. You won't be able to get the front clip off because of the dash. From there I was able apply enough pressure by prying and lifting to release the front clip and the panel was in my hands without a mark. Yes you have to bend and pry a little but go easy and this can be done without destroying anything. Hope this helps anyone, who gets in this mess.
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