beoy9

I know this is supposed to go in the hybrid, but it sat all day with 30 views and no replies. Please if you have any info, post it up!

So, I started up my JDM B18C last night for the first time. Finally got everything together and ready to go, and I went to start it, and all I get is "*CLICK*" so I cleaned off the battery posts and leads and tried again.

This time the starter goes, tries to turn the motor over with 2 chugs of the starter, the motor goes Blub blub and I let off. Start it again, and it cranks over and fires up! I can't tell you how stoked I am to get the thing turning over, filmed it and everything, my first swap and all. Anyway, the thing sounds like a Harley (hense the thread title) and is idling REALLY rough at about 1200 rpm or so. It just goes "BLUB BLUB BLUB BLUB BLUB BLUB BLUB BLUB BLUB BLUB BLUB BLUB" and I shut it down after about 15 seconds running. I have no intake on the throttle body, and the header is open free and I'm getting a Check Engine Light. Now this was at 3 am when I finally got it going, so I had to turn in to get at least 4 hours sleep before work so I'll be bridging the wires by the ECU to see what the CEL is, but I just wanted to gather your thoughts on what might be making my engine sound like this. Personally I'm thinking Timing, but I'm not sure if Timing would throw a code, but then it could be Timing AND something to throw a code.

Thanks for your input!

aziz93

your timing is outta wack also you have no lowend power what so ever like that. but if you took it for a ride and stomped on the gas it would problay run good in the higher rpms. but fix that code before you do that and it is probaly your 02 sensor getting cloged with fuel

EKspoonin

I had the same problem with my B18C motor... If you didn't disassemby the engine then the timing should be fine. It's probably just miss firing badly. I had the same problem. one of my injectors was clogged. Remember these jdm engines sit in the warehouses for a long time.. Also the motors havn't been ran for a while. I don't know whats up with your CEL.. ?? Before you do anything, check that out first. More props to ya man on the swap.


99 EK B18C ( GSR ) I/h/e 14.3/ 97mph

instrument

yeah, running an open header amplifies things a bit..

what is a slight surge with an entire exhaust system becomes a howling beast...

its possibly with a full exhaust your blublublu would be a hardly noticeable glubglubglub...well you know what i mean.

and yeah, when i swapped my engine i had a code for injectors, they just needed a cleaning after sitting for a while.

just check the code, bleed your coolant (which most people don't seem to do after a swap) and let us know what happens.

goodluck

beoy9

I did disassemble the motor far enough to put the water pump on, so that's why I'm thinking timing so much. I'm going to figure out what that CEL is just as soon as I search HT on how to find out, where to bridge the connections and what the blinks mean. As far as draining the coolant, you're just talking about draining it from teh radiator right?

beoy9

Ok, so the search isn't working right now, can anyone clue me in on how to find out what codes the ECU is throwing?

beoy9

bump

c1v1c98

Well, I doubt this is the problem. But I put a JDM B18C into my civic a couple months ago and when i started it, it was idleing really rough and wasn't really drivable. Couldn't take it passed 2K RPMs. And it made the "blub blub" noise. Anyway, I had my TPS plug on my MAP sensor and my MAP plug on the TPS. I figured out the wiring colors and realized I had them switched. I switched them back and it ran perfectly. So make sure all of your plugs from your harness are on the right sensor, if you haven't already. Good luck!

beoy9

I'm pretty sure I got the plugs right, but can you tell me what colors went to the TPS so i can verify that it is correct?

aziz93

yeah i was going to say the tps to but i figured you probaly did not mess with the tps. But i forgot the map and tps plugs are the same. switch them real quick see if thats it. and by timing i was say because your running a open header so there is no back pressure and it was easier to just say "your timing is outta wack". but it would not hurt to put it to TDC and make sure everything is good

beoy9

Ok, I finally pulled the CEL code, #22 VTEC Oil Pressure sensor. Would that have a huge effect on how the car is running?


Modified by beoy9 at 12:43 PM 9/30/2006

aziz93

i doubt it all the oil pressure switch does is tell the ecu that you have enough oil pressure to activate the vtec . you must have a usdm ecu with a jdm motor. you can jump a4 vtec pin on ecu to d6 oil pressure pin on ecu. Thats on obd1 setups dont know about obd2. jdm motors dont use oil pressure switch but usdm does at least my jdm head i dont have a oil pressure switch so i had to jump a4 to d6 on pin on my usdm ecu and all that does is tell the vtec solenoid that you have plenty oil pressure and it is ok to activate vtec. your car is running rough because you have a open header, and no intake probaly has something to do with. but if you jump the oil pressure pin to the vtec pin you should be ok with that cel code. doing that wont hurt nothing it will just keep a constant signal saying that you have enough oil pressure to activate vtec.


just thought of this when i was finished typing with a cel code i belive your ecu goes into "limp mode" and runs it rich and messes with the ignition timming to keep the motor running without damaging it to get you home incase your out on the road and this happens

beoy9

aziz, thanks a lot, I'm going to go jump those ECU pins now, I should aslo tell you that I have my exhaust bolted up and my intake mounted.

There is a strange sound I'm hearing when I shut the car off, I first heard it when I was hand turning the crank when I had it out to do the timing belt. Sort of a wheezing sound that to me sounded like compression noise coming from the intake manifold. I hear that sound when I shut the engine off, with the intake mounted.

Also, I have a VTEC Oil pressure switch on my head, right near the VTEC solonoid. Could I have a USDM head? confused....


Modified by beoy9 at 2:25 PM 9/30/2006

aziz93

that sound is the air filter no doubt. and im not sure if they switched to oil pressure in the later years my head is a 1991 and it has no oil pressure switch

also those pin codes i give you are for 0bd1 be sure if you have 0bd2 you get the correct pin codes

and if that strange sound sounds kinda cool then yeah it is deff... the air filter.
mine dont do it but a lot do

beoy9

After some searching, I've found a common issue to error 22 is from lack of oil. Now, I just put a new filter on, and 4 quarts of oil. Weird thing is, When I start the motor, then shut it off, there is oil all over the dipstick, but after I wipe it off, then put it back in and pull it out to check it, there is NO oil on the dipstick... wtf

aziz93

thats because its all in the head . you have to let it sit for a few hours before it all drains back into the pan. do not over fill it. check oil when it is cold and neen sitting for a while.

you will notice that it you wipe the dipstick off and put it in for a few seconds more like 10-15 there will be oil allover it agian thats becuase it is draing back into the pan. agian do not over fill it

cwd14

my JDM B16A has an oil pressure sensor on it so they did add one. and as for switching the TPS and the MAP sensor plug just switch the plugs and see if it makes a difference because that does sound like what will happen. and switching the plugs and running the engine for a short while will not damage anything.

during my swap I got that exact same code and all it was was a ground problem.

and also I dunno about the B18C but for my b16A it uses a little more than 4 quarts. something like 4.2 or something.

also I dunno what Aziz93 is talking about with oil staying the head for a few hours, but if you check the oil while the car is in a drivewaythat is not flat it will seem like there is low oil because the oil is at the back of the oil pan due to the angle of the driveway.

aziz93

[QUOTE=cwd14]

also I dunno what Aziz93 is talking about with oil staying the head for a few hours,

[QUOTE]

i was not saying it stays in the head for a few hours but it takes a few hours for all the oil to drain back into the pan for an acurate reading. When you start your car loads of oil is being sprayed into the head and drained back down by gravity and new oil pushing it down and when you shut it off you have to wait for just the gravity to let it all flow back into the oil pan. and yes being on flat ground does help for an accurate reading.

check your oil right after shut down then check it after a few hours there will be about 1-1.5 quart difference on the dip stick

beoy9

Ok, I searched and searched and searched and searched and tried everything I could find about error 22. I had put in about 3.5 quarts of oil. Found out that GSR motors are 4.2 capacity, so I added a bit more, I cleaned out the screen on the VTEC solonoid (looked ok to me before, but I cleaned it with a wrag anyway) And I also took off the ground I had on there, and got my handy dandy dremel and scuffed the ish out of it, then tied it all back down.

Reset the ECU, no CEL! PHEW! Also, I started up my engine and it ran rough for just a tic, then smoothed out. Before when I tried to rev it (to less than 3k rpm is all) just the throttle felt sluggish, I couldn't imagine driving it. But, after fixing the CEL, it seems to purr like it was meant to.

I'm throwing the wheels on now, going to drain my tranny and put new fluid in and take her for a spin. Then come home and fix my nasty exhaust leak.

Everyone thanks for your help with this thread, hopefully someone will search accross it in the future and find out how to solve this issue.

-Zak-

cwd14

[QUOTE=aziz93][QUOTE=cwd14]

also I dunno what Aziz93 is talking about with oil staying the head for a few hours,

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i was not saying it stays in the head for a few hours but it takes a few hours for all the oil to drain back into the pan for an acurate reading. When you start your car loads of oil is being sprayed into the head and drained back down by gravity and new oil pushing it down and when you shut it off you have to wait for just the gravity to let it all flow back into the oil pan. and yes being on flat ground does help for an accurate reading.

check your oil right after shut down then check it after a few hours there will be about 1-1.5 quart difference on the dip stick </TD></TR></TABLE>

didn't mean any disrespect I just don't think it takes hours to trickle down