New Member - Some Questions
03-21-2008, 03:37 PM
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New Member - Some Questions
Hi everyone, trying to tread carefully as this forum seems to have pretty strict rules. Anyways...
I have a 1998 Civic EX Coupe which from what I have read has the D16Y8 VTEC motor, which also from what I've read on these boards seems to be a fairly workable platform. Now I have limited mechanical knowledge (Did a bit of work on a 1985 Honda XR250 Dirtbike) but have a friend who has built up 2 honda's and would hopefully be able to help me. Here are some questions I have that I couldn't find on the forums.
What are some good brand names to look for as far as engine performance? I am looking to make my car fun to drive again, not really showy.
Also how much money would it take to bring my daily driver up around 220-240 horsepower? I read in a sticky that this can be done on stock internals with a turbo at about 8psi, but it didn't have anything about cost.
One last question, my car just hit 83,000 miles, and if I was preparing to go FI or other performance mods, what other things should I worry about breaking?
Thanks for any help and hopefully this is the right forum / questions and hope I don't get negative feedback, haha.
I have a 1998 Civic EX Coupe which from what I have read has the D16Y8 VTEC motor, which also from what I've read on these boards seems to be a fairly workable platform. Now I have limited mechanical knowledge (Did a bit of work on a 1985 Honda XR250 Dirtbike) but have a friend who has built up 2 honda's and would hopefully be able to help me. Here are some questions I have that I couldn't find on the forums.
What are some good brand names to look for as far as engine performance? I am looking to make my car fun to drive again, not really showy.
Also how much money would it take to bring my daily driver up around 220-240 horsepower? I read in a sticky that this can be done on stock internals with a turbo at about 8psi, but it didn't have anything about cost.
One last question, my car just hit 83,000 miles, and if I was preparing to go FI or other performance mods, what other things should I worry about breaking?
Thanks for any help and hopefully this is the right forum / questions and hope I don't get negative feedback, haha.
03-21-2008, 03:45 PM
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Re: New Member - Some Questions (sarNz)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sarNz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hi everyone, trying to tread carefully as this forum seems to have pretty strict rules. Anyways...
I have a 1998 Civic EX Coupe which from what I have read has the D16Y8 VTEC motor, which also from what I've read on these boards seems to be a fairly workable platform. Now I have limited mechanical knowledge (Did a bit of work on a 1985 Honda XR250 Dirtbike) but have a friend who has built up 2 honda's and would hopefully be able to help me. Here are some questions I have that I couldn't find on the forums.
What are some good brand names to look for as far as engine performance? I am looking to make my car fun to drive again, not really showy.
Also how much money would it take to bring my daily driver up around 220-240 horsepower? I read in a sticky that this can be done on stock internals with a turbo at about 8psi, but it didn't have anything about cost.
One last question, my car just hit 83,000 miles, and if I was preparing to go FI or other performance mods, what other things should I worry about breaking?
Thanks for any help and hopefully this is the right forum / questions and hope I don't get negative feedback, haha.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
220-240 is ALOT of horses out of a stock block Y8, and that also includes pretty much tossing reliability out the window. "Yes it can handle it, No it probably won't handle it long or reliably"
190 is a much more realistic goal to keep it half-way reliable, and within a reasonable cost-range. As you mentioned, this is your daily driver, so you aren't going to want it blowing up weekly.
As far as cost, a name-brand turbo kit, such as Greddy, can be had for around $1500-1700 ready to go.
As far as having 83K on the clock, you'd want to replace the headgasket, *Probably replace the headbolts with ARP studs at that time as well* water pump, timing belt, dizzy cap, dizzy rotor, wires, and you will have to replace the plugs anyways if you are going FI with different plugs.
You will also probably want to do the oil pump mod (basically Y8 oil pumps are not the best flowing, and there is a way to 'port' them, or you can replace it with an aftermarket one, especially under boost, you will not want this part to fail.)
Also, the reason for 8PSI, is because thats when the stock map sensor stops caring, 7PSI is a better bet, just to not be pushing the very tippy limits of the stock sensors.
I have a 1998 Civic EX Coupe which from what I have read has the D16Y8 VTEC motor, which also from what I've read on these boards seems to be a fairly workable platform. Now I have limited mechanical knowledge (Did a bit of work on a 1985 Honda XR250 Dirtbike) but have a friend who has built up 2 honda's and would hopefully be able to help me. Here are some questions I have that I couldn't find on the forums.
What are some good brand names to look for as far as engine performance? I am looking to make my car fun to drive again, not really showy.
Also how much money would it take to bring my daily driver up around 220-240 horsepower? I read in a sticky that this can be done on stock internals with a turbo at about 8psi, but it didn't have anything about cost.
One last question, my car just hit 83,000 miles, and if I was preparing to go FI or other performance mods, what other things should I worry about breaking?
Thanks for any help and hopefully this is the right forum / questions and hope I don't get negative feedback, haha.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
220-240 is ALOT of horses out of a stock block Y8, and that also includes pretty much tossing reliability out the window. "Yes it can handle it, No it probably won't handle it long or reliably"
190 is a much more realistic goal to keep it half-way reliable, and within a reasonable cost-range. As you mentioned, this is your daily driver, so you aren't going to want it blowing up weekly.
As far as cost, a name-brand turbo kit, such as Greddy, can be had for around $1500-1700 ready to go.
As far as having 83K on the clock, you'd want to replace the headgasket, *Probably replace the headbolts with ARP studs at that time as well* water pump, timing belt, dizzy cap, dizzy rotor, wires, and you will have to replace the plugs anyways if you are going FI with different plugs.
You will also probably want to do the oil pump mod (basically Y8 oil pumps are not the best flowing, and there is a way to 'port' them, or you can replace it with an aftermarket one, especially under boost, you will not want this part to fail.)
Also, the reason for 8PSI, is because thats when the stock map sensor stops caring, 7PSI is a better bet, just to not be pushing the very tippy limits of the stock sensors.
03-21-2008, 04:44 PM
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Thanks for the reply, very helpful. When you say stock block (this has always confused me) do you actually mean the BLOCK or the rods and pistons? I'll definitely note those other things you said too, those are probably things that I should replace either way to keep the car running for a while.
Assuming I went with that $1700 Greddy charger, how does this impact the fuel economy of the car? Right now with normal driving I get around 31 mpg. (I am aware that with a turbo I'd also be running premium gas). I know these are probably questions that any 'enthusiast' wouldn't be asking, but I'm trying to find a balance of performance and economy, if there is one.
One last thing, it's a 5 speed. I looked up some short throw shifters and they seem pretty cheap. Does it make driving a stick more enjoyable?\
Thanks again for any help.
Assuming I went with that $1700 Greddy charger, how does this impact the fuel economy of the car? Right now with normal driving I get around 31 mpg. (I am aware that with a turbo I'd also be running premium gas). I know these are probably questions that any 'enthusiast' wouldn't be asking, but I'm trying to find a balance of performance and economy, if there is one.
One last thing, it's a 5 speed. I looked up some short throw shifters and they seem pretty cheap. Does it make driving a stick more enjoyable?\
Thanks again for any help.
03-21-2008, 06:51 PM
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Re: (sarNz)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sarNz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the reply, very helpful. When you say stock block (this has always confused me) do you actually mean the BLOCK or the rods and pistons? I'll definitely note those other things you said too, those are probably things that I should replace either way to keep the car running for a while.</TD></TR></TABLE>
When I say "Stock Block" I mean Stock bottom end, so stock pistons, rods, etc.
a 'built' engine, would have, new pistons/rods/maybe even with a block guard and/or sleeved. A Built D-series, can handle north of 250hp fairly easily *and big boost as well* but that all adds up VERY quickly.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sarNz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Assuming I went with that $1700 Greddy charger, how does this impact the fuel economy of the car? Right now with normal driving I get around 31 mpg. (I am aware that with a turbo I'd also be running premium gas). I know these are probably questions that any 'enthusiast' wouldn't be asking, but I'm trying to find a balance of performance and economy, if there is one.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Its no problem to be asking questions. You are aware of the search button, and haven't asked any of the typical 'what engines fit in my car' or 'will I make 500hp with these mods' questions that are standard for the noobs on this board, Lol.
ALWAYS use the search button before asking, but like I said, your questions aren't stupid IMO, you just want to learn.
mpg with a boosted engine will vary RADICALLY, I have a friend with a boosted B16, with a wider LS transmission who gets 28mpg if he keeps his foot out of it, while he can get as low as 12-15mpg if he is wailing on it. The two MAIN things that will effect your fuel economy are your tune *Which you will need if you are boosted* and how you drive.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sarNz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
One last thing, it's a 5 speed. I looked up some short throw shifters and they seem pretty cheap. Does it make driving a stick more enjoyable?\
Thanks again for any help.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm gonna get flammed for this, I bought a dual-bend short-shifter on Fleabay for $10 well over a year ago, and honestly LOVE it. Alot of people claim they break easily, then again there are alota ricer wannabe's who shift 'paul walker style' slamming every gear home.
A piece of information is "Due to civic design, no matter what brand you buy, the shift can only be reduced by so much because the exhaust is RIGHT below the shifter"
so a Skunk2 will not be any less of a throw than a Ebay one, but it will be made out of better materials.
as far as installing it, unless the car is on a lift, in my opinion its a pretty big pain in the *** *I just lifted one side of the car up, took me like 2 hours
while if it was on a lift, it woulda taken 10 min.
And yes, I think it makes driving it more enjoyable. The shifts feel alot more definitive, and for when I hit he quarter mile in the car, it makes shifting quickly an art of how fast you can move your feet, not the shifter.
When I say "Stock Block" I mean Stock bottom end, so stock pistons, rods, etc.
a 'built' engine, would have, new pistons/rods/maybe even with a block guard and/or sleeved. A Built D-series, can handle north of 250hp fairly easily *and big boost as well* but that all adds up VERY quickly.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sarNz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Assuming I went with that $1700 Greddy charger, how does this impact the fuel economy of the car? Right now with normal driving I get around 31 mpg. (I am aware that with a turbo I'd also be running premium gas). I know these are probably questions that any 'enthusiast' wouldn't be asking, but I'm trying to find a balance of performance and economy, if there is one.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Its no problem to be asking questions. You are aware of the search button, and haven't asked any of the typical 'what engines fit in my car' or 'will I make 500hp with these mods' questions that are standard for the noobs on this board, Lol.
ALWAYS use the search button before asking, but like I said, your questions aren't stupid IMO, you just want to learn.
mpg with a boosted engine will vary RADICALLY, I have a friend with a boosted B16, with a wider LS transmission who gets 28mpg if he keeps his foot out of it, while he can get as low as 12-15mpg if he is wailing on it. The two MAIN things that will effect your fuel economy are your tune *Which you will need if you are boosted* and how you drive.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sarNz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
One last thing, it's a 5 speed. I looked up some short throw shifters and they seem pretty cheap. Does it make driving a stick more enjoyable?\
Thanks again for any help.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm gonna get flammed for this, I bought a dual-bend short-shifter on Fleabay for $10 well over a year ago, and honestly LOVE it. Alot of people claim they break easily, then again there are alota ricer wannabe's who shift 'paul walker style' slamming every gear home.
A piece of information is "Due to civic design, no matter what brand you buy, the shift can only be reduced by so much because the exhaust is RIGHT below the shifter"
so a Skunk2 will not be any less of a throw than a Ebay one, but it will be made out of better materials.
as far as installing it, unless the car is on a lift, in my opinion its a pretty big pain in the *** *I just lifted one side of the car up, took me like 2 hours
while if it was on a lift, it woulda taken 10 min.And yes, I think it makes driving it more enjoyable. The shifts feel alot more definitive, and for when I hit he quarter mile in the car, it makes shifting quickly an art of how fast you can move your feet, not the shifter.
03-21-2008, 08:50 PM
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Thanks a lot for the help, really appreciate it! Though I'm fairly sure I wouldn't build the block (as don't you also have to beef up trans, driveshaft, etc as you start pushing 2x more horsepower than stock?) I will still research it.
I guess the mileage goes the same in any car, if I floored it everywhere I'd probably get really crappy mileage.
And I'll start looking into STS as well. If this is all easier when on a lift, I might as well save until I can do everything at once. A lot of my exhaust is also rusted, and needs replacing.
And yet again, here's some more questions:
As far as exhaust goes, I honestly do not like the sound of a loud 4 banger. I'd like to keep mine as quiet as possible, and need new pipes as it is. Are there any aftermarket quiet exhausts or am I stuck ordering the pricey OEM?
And unrelated to performance: This car has the strange CD player setup where it's down by the cupholders. I just want something that can play burned CD's, but I went to circuit city and they couldn't even find an adapter thing for my car. What do I have to do to get a new receiver in there? Can I get one put in down by the cupholders? I'll try to take some pictures tomorrow.
Thanks again.
I guess the mileage goes the same in any car, if I floored it everywhere I'd probably get really crappy mileage.
And I'll start looking into STS as well. If this is all easier when on a lift, I might as well save until I can do everything at once. A lot of my exhaust is also rusted, and needs replacing.
And yet again, here's some more questions:
As far as exhaust goes, I honestly do not like the sound of a loud 4 banger. I'd like to keep mine as quiet as possible, and need new pipes as it is. Are there any aftermarket quiet exhausts or am I stuck ordering the pricey OEM?
And unrelated to performance: This car has the strange CD player setup where it's down by the cupholders. I just want something that can play burned CD's, but I went to circuit city and they couldn't even find an adapter thing for my car. What do I have to do to get a new receiver in there? Can I get one put in down by the cupholders? I'll try to take some pictures tomorrow.
Thanks again.
03-22-2008, 09:21 AM
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Re: (sarNz)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sarNz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks a lot for the help, really appreciate it! Though I'm fairly sure I wouldn't build the block (as don't you also have to beef up trans, driveshaft, etc as you start pushing 2x more horsepower than stock?) I will still research it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Civic manual transmissions are pretty strong, if you start putting down 200-250hp, the main thing you'd need would be a be stronger clutch.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sarNz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I guess the mileage goes the same in any car, if I floored it everywhere I'd probably get really crappy mileage.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats how it goes, Lol.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sarNz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And I'll start looking into STS as well. If this is all easier when on a lift, I might as well save until I can do everything at once. A lot of my exhaust is also rusted, and needs replacing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've never seen an STS setup on a civic, so I'd probably stay away from that.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sarNz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And yet again, here's some more questions:
As far as exhaust goes, I honestly do not like the sound of a loud 4 banger. I'd like to keep mine as quiet as possible, and need new pipes as it is. Are there any aftermarket quiet exhausts or am I stuck ordering the pricey OEM?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Since you have a 96-00 Civic, to my understanding, you can mount an S2000, RSX, or 06+ Civic SI muffler to your car fairly easily, and they will give you a stock appearance, and a good, low, sound.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sarNz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And unrelated to performance: This car has the strange CD player setup where it's down by the cupholders. I just want something that can play burned CD's, but I went to circuit city and they couldn't even find an adapter thing for my car. What do I have to do to get a new receiver in there? Can I get one put in down by the cupholders? I'll try to take some pictures tomorrow.
Thanks again.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea, post up some pics, that doesn't sound stock.
Civic manual transmissions are pretty strong, if you start putting down 200-250hp, the main thing you'd need would be a be stronger clutch.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sarNz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I guess the mileage goes the same in any car, if I floored it everywhere I'd probably get really crappy mileage.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats how it goes, Lol.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sarNz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And I'll start looking into STS as well. If this is all easier when on a lift, I might as well save until I can do everything at once. A lot of my exhaust is also rusted, and needs replacing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've never seen an STS setup on a civic, so I'd probably stay away from that.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sarNz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And yet again, here's some more questions:
As far as exhaust goes, I honestly do not like the sound of a loud 4 banger. I'd like to keep mine as quiet as possible, and need new pipes as it is. Are there any aftermarket quiet exhausts or am I stuck ordering the pricey OEM?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Since you have a 96-00 Civic, to my understanding, you can mount an S2000, RSX, or 06+ Civic SI muffler to your car fairly easily, and they will give you a stock appearance, and a good, low, sound.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sarNz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And unrelated to performance: This car has the strange CD player setup where it's down by the cupholders. I just want something that can play burned CD's, but I went to circuit city and they couldn't even find an adapter thing for my car. What do I have to do to get a new receiver in there? Can I get one put in down by the cupholders? I'll try to take some pictures tomorrow.
Thanks again.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea, post up some pics, that doesn't sound stock.
03-22-2008, 10:42 AM
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Re: (sarNz)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sarNz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">One last thing, it's a 5 speed. I looked up some short throw shifters and they seem pretty cheap. Does it make driving a stick more enjoyable?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes it does.
I would stay away from the eBay shifters and go with a good one made of steel or aluminum. I once saw a cheap shifter break.
When you are under the car replacing the shifter, you have to drop the shift linkage. While there, can also install a set of polyurethane shifter bushings for crisper feel. Those bushings are $20-30.
Yes it does.
I would stay away from the eBay shifters and go with a good one made of steel or aluminum. I once saw a cheap shifter break.
When you are under the car replacing the shifter, you have to drop the shift linkage. While there, can also install a set of polyurethane shifter bushings for crisper feel. Those bushings are $20-30.
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03-22-2008, 11:23 AM
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Re: (Toy Civic)
I can't answer much in the turbo questions, but Short Throw Shifters do make the feel much better. Everything about them feels better.
Just my .02, if it makes the decision easier for you.
Just my .02, if it makes the decision easier for you.
03-26-2008, 02:12 PM
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Re: (coreylolz)
THanks for the replies everyone. I'll definitely look into STS as well as all the other things. I sent my friend a message that has done a lot of work on Hondas so hopefully he'll get back to me soon.
One thing I definitely need is a new exhaust, here's some pics of mine lol. (I was trying that muffler patch stuff, but I guess I didn't do it completely right...) And if I need a new exhaust I will also just get a STS as well to make it easier.
Anyways, here are some pics of my car (cell phone, so you can't see the million dents all over it)
Here is also a picture of the ridiculous CD player situation. The controls are up top while the player is down below... I don't get it but I can't play most burned CD's.
(do i need a new gasket here?)
(the hood open latch on the interior broke off, i have to pull it with pliers. anywhere to get a new one?)
thanks again!
One thing I definitely need is a new exhaust, here's some pics of mine lol. (I was trying that muffler patch stuff, but I guess I didn't do it completely right...) And if I need a new exhaust I will also just get a STS as well to make it easier.
Anyways, here are some pics of my car (cell phone, so you can't see the million dents all over it)
Here is also a picture of the ridiculous CD player situation. The controls are up top while the player is down below... I don't get it but I can't play most burned CD's.
(do i need a new gasket here?) (the hood open latch on the interior broke off, i have to pull it with pliers. anywhere to get a new one?)thanks again!
03-26-2008, 02:35 PM
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Re: (sarNz)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sarNz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks a lot for the help, really appreciate it! Though I'm fairly sure I wouldn't build the block (as don't you also have to beef up trans, driveshaft, etc as you start pushing 2x more horsepower than stock?) I will still research it.
And yet again, here's some more questions:
As far as exhaust goes, I honestly do not like the sound of a loud 4 banger. I'd like to keep mine as quiet as possible, and need new pipes as it is. Are there any aftermarket quiet exhausts or am I stuck ordering the pricey OEM?
Thanks again. </TD></TR></TABLE>
unless your going all out, you shouldn't need new syncros or anything.
you will be able to just get away with a flywheel, clutch combo.
and don't worry about a driveshaft. your car is fwd and has no driveshaft.
there are some aftermarket exhuast companies that have a nice tone, but not super loud when they have the silencer on it. but if your going to boost your car i'd reccomend not getting the stock exhuast.
when i installed my short shifter it was really stiff. was it the same for anyone else? because of the new bushings it's really stiff, but later shifts like butter?
And yet again, here's some more questions:
As far as exhaust goes, I honestly do not like the sound of a loud 4 banger. I'd like to keep mine as quiet as possible, and need new pipes as it is. Are there any aftermarket quiet exhausts or am I stuck ordering the pricey OEM?
Thanks again. </TD></TR></TABLE>
unless your going all out, you shouldn't need new syncros or anything.
you will be able to just get away with a flywheel, clutch combo.
and don't worry about a driveshaft. your car is fwd and has no driveshaft.
there are some aftermarket exhuast companies that have a nice tone, but not super loud when they have the silencer on it. but if your going to boost your car i'd reccomend not getting the stock exhuast.
when i installed my short shifter it was really stiff. was it the same for anyone else? because of the new bushings it's really stiff, but later shifts like butter?
03-26-2008, 02:49 PM
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Re: (EcivicG)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EcivicG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
unless your going all out, you shouldn't need new syncros or anything.
you will be able to just get away with a flywheel, clutch combo.
and don't worry about a driveshaft. your car is fwd and has no driveshaft.
there are some aftermarket exhuast companies that have a nice tone, but not super loud when they have the silencer on it. but if your going to boost your car i'd reccomend not getting the stock exhuast.
when i installed my short shifter it was really stiff. was it the same for anyone else? because of the new bushings it's really stiff, but later shifts like butter?</TD></TR></TABLE>
if you over-tighten the bolt through the shifter it makes it really stiff, and might loosen up a bit through use, thats all I can think of.
and to the OP:
The broken hood latch is attached directly to the cable, so you can't replace just the plastic, you have to replace the cable and latch as one unit.
You have to pull off the driver side fender, and front bumper for EG/EH's to replace it, I dunno if its the same for the 96-00 Civics.
unless your going all out, you shouldn't need new syncros or anything.
you will be able to just get away with a flywheel, clutch combo.
and don't worry about a driveshaft. your car is fwd and has no driveshaft.
there are some aftermarket exhuast companies that have a nice tone, but not super loud when they have the silencer on it. but if your going to boost your car i'd reccomend not getting the stock exhuast.
when i installed my short shifter it was really stiff. was it the same for anyone else? because of the new bushings it's really stiff, but later shifts like butter?</TD></TR></TABLE>
if you over-tighten the bolt through the shifter it makes it really stiff, and might loosen up a bit through use, thats all I can think of.
and to the OP:
The broken hood latch is attached directly to the cable, so you can't replace just the plastic, you have to replace the cable and latch as one unit.
You have to pull off the driver side fender, and front bumper for EG/EH's to replace it, I dunno if its the same for the 96-00 Civics.
03-26-2008, 02:49 PM
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Re: (sarNz)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sarNz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> (the hood open latch on the interior broke off, i have to pull it with pliers. anywhere to get a new one?)
thanks again!</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can get it at your local dealer for about $18 or so, that is where I got mine.
(the hood open latch on the interior broke off, i have to pull it with pliers. anywhere to get a new one?)thanks again!</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can get it at your local dealer for about $18 or so, that is where I got mine.
03-26-2008, 04:01 PM
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Re: (EcivicG)
id recommend the apexi world sport 2 exhaust, VERY VERY quiet and yet its still a 2 1/2 catback, then when you do your turbo setup you will be very skeaky
03-26-2008, 05:05 PM
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Re: (egmatt93)
EcivicG : LOL! I must be spending too much time on mustang forums to forget there's no driveshaft on a FWD car... forgive my ignorance haha.
Dasfinc : Well, what's broken is just the piece of plastic, the tab that you pull on to open the hood. Hopefully I don't have to go through the other ordeal!
Vap133 : Thanks, I'll have to do that next time I get into town. There's still part of the plastic on there, should I just rip it off and superglue the new one on?
egmatt93 : Wow, that has to be the only exhaust I've ever heard on a 4 cylinder car that I like. It actually sounds kind of... classy! I looked it up, about 460 dollars. Is that just for one piece or the full exhaust? Because from the pics my whole exhaust pretty much needs replacing.
My mom (yes, due to her paying for college right now, I like to check things over with her) says that I 'never plan things' so I am going to start making an excel document.
Thanks again guys, great feedback here
Dasfinc : Well, what's broken is just the piece of plastic, the tab that you pull on to open the hood. Hopefully I don't have to go through the other ordeal!
Vap133 : Thanks, I'll have to do that next time I get into town. There's still part of the plastic on there, should I just rip it off and superglue the new one on?
egmatt93 : Wow, that has to be the only exhaust I've ever heard on a 4 cylinder car that I like. It actually sounds kind of... classy! I looked it up, about 460 dollars. Is that just for one piece or the full exhaust? Because from the pics my whole exhaust pretty much needs replacing.
My mom (yes, due to her paying for college right now, I like to check things over with her) says that I 'never plan things' so I am going to start making an excel document.
Thanks again guys, great feedback here
03-26-2008, 05:19 PM
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Re: (nix94delsol)
Actually, I want to do absolutely nothing to the appearance of the car (besides maybe dropping it at one point). It is my daily driver, and any nice wheels, lip kits, etc, are just saying 'steal me'. I also go to a big public school where break-ins are not uncommon, so I want to keep it looking as low profile as possible. A fun, daily driving, not total 'sleeper' but not a stocker. Here is a list of all the performance things I can think of, please let me know what I am missing and if you want to add general price ranges, feel free for that as well. Thanks again.
pistons -
rods -
turbo -
boost controller -
clutch -
flywheel -
tuner -
coilovers -
shocks -
springs -
exhaust -
brake pads -
tires -
pistons -
rods -
turbo -
boost controller -
clutch -
flywheel -
tuner -
coilovers -
shocks -
springs -
exhaust -
brake pads -
tires -
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