new lug nut studs??
12-12-2006, 08:06 PM
#1
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new lug nut studs??
how do you install them and where can i find some? my passenger wheel is only being truly held on by one nut, one is 4/5s of the way down but just turns in one spot and wont go down, the other one the stud is loose and just turns instead of the nut, and the last one is just rusted and broken. what kind of shop could i take it to that would have the studs to do it for me??
12-12-2006, 08:12 PM
#3
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its a disc, but how do you put them in? thers a big metaly plate behind the disc and i dont see how to take it off without a lot of work taking off all the other crap
12-12-2006, 08:15 PM
#4
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Okay, I have never done this on my Civic, only my Accord but it should be very similar.
Jack the car up, take wheel off, take caliper off. Look at the inside of the rotor and rotate it until you can see the head of the crappy stud. Hit the threaded end with a hammer. Put the new one in and tighten the lugnut on it to pull it into place.
Don't take it to a shop, it's too easy...
Jack the car up, take wheel off, take caliper off. Look at the inside of the rotor and rotate it until you can see the head of the crappy stud. Hit the threaded end with a hammer. Put the new one in and tighten the lugnut on it to pull it into place.
Don't take it to a shop, it's too easy...
12-12-2006, 08:24 PM
#6
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2 bolts on the inside on the caliper. Leave the top bolt threaded in loosely so you can just rotate the caliper up and not disconnect the brake line. You'll need a C-Clamp to compress the piston.
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12-12-2006, 08:37 PM
#8
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whats the piston? lol i know i sound like a noob. i know how to work but like i said never really dont anything with suspension or brakes...2 things i dont wanna screw up but all i have on me is 20 bucks lol
12-12-2006, 08:49 PM
#9
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You will only need like $3. It isn't hard at all. Once you start doing it you'll see how it works.
The piston is what compresses the brake pad and pushes it into the rotor. You need to push it back into the caliper so it is "open" enough to slide off the caliper off the pad.
On the left part, the piston is the metal cyclinder. The two holes on the left and right of the piston are where the bolts you need to loosen are. Take the bottom (bottom when on your car, not in picture) all the way out, and just loosen the top.
After your done, pump your brakes while the car is running until they feel normal.
The piston is what compresses the brake pad and pushes it into the rotor. You need to push it back into the caliper so it is "open" enough to slide off the caliper off the pad.
On the left part, the piston is the metal cyclinder. The two holes on the left and right of the piston are where the bolts you need to loosen are. Take the bottom (bottom when on your car, not in picture) all the way out, and just loosen the top.
After your done, pump your brakes while the car is running until they feel normal.
12-12-2006, 09:25 PM
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Re: (nomoreavril)
Make sure the C Clamp is up there good when you compress the brake so it will fit back on the rotor. Ive had a couple break on me when the c clamp slipped to the edge.
Its two bolts to take the caliper off and really straight forward. Brakes are nothing to be intimidated by.
Its two bolts to take the caliper off and really straight forward. Brakes are nothing to be intimidated by.
12-12-2006, 10:36 PM
#13
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Re: (sasser43)
I'm skeptical. I don't think they can be replaced on my EK without pulling the hubs. Honda says replace the wheel bearings every time you pull the hubs.
The real answer's to look it up in the shop manual.
The real answer's to look it up in the shop manual.
12-13-2006, 05:56 AM
#15
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Re: (fizix_skate)
It's just a question of clearance. If you can get enough clearance along where the caliper bolts on to get the stud into the back of the hub, then your technique will work. If you can't then it won't. In my case, I was installing extended ARP studs so, the clearance problems were worse.
Honda doesn't mention stud replacement in the manual. I suspect they just want you to replace the entire hub (like they don't do bushing replacements either). If you pull the hub you DO have to replace the wheel bearing. It's damged when the hub is removed.
Honda doesn't mention stud replacement in the manual. I suspect they just want you to replace the entire hub (like they don't do bushing replacements either). If you pull the hub you DO have to replace the wheel bearing. It's damged when the hub is removed.
12-13-2006, 06:02 AM
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Re: (MasterKwan)
When I had to change a wheel stud on my ej6 I had to cut it down to a nub and use a drift to punch it in the rest of the way. I really don't remember how I got the new one in, but it was a big pain in the ***. Clearance is definitely an issue
12-13-2006, 06:17 AM
#18
318 Curves, 11 miles
Re: (sniggler316)
Yes, the fronts are a huge pain in the ***. There is not enough clearance to remove the studs without removing the hub from the bearing, and that is supposed to ruin the bearings. I have done it before using a big hydraulic press, and it has been fine for >15K miles, but you are technically supposed to replace the whole hub and bearing assembly.
Here's what you have to do (from memory) to replace studs without buying a new hub/bearing:
remove wheel.
remove axle nut (see, this is already getting hard)
remove castle nuts from balljoints.
remove pinch bolt thingy from lower control arm. The goal is to get the entire hub/knuckle assembly out of the car.
throw knuckle on a BIG press and press out the hub
replace studs
reassemble in reverse order.
I recommend taking it to a shop and just having them replace the hub and bearing.
The rears are easy though. You can change those in about 20 minutes.
Here's what you have to do (from memory) to replace studs without buying a new hub/bearing:
remove wheel.
remove axle nut (see, this is already getting hard)
remove castle nuts from balljoints.
remove pinch bolt thingy from lower control arm. The goal is to get the entire hub/knuckle assembly out of the car.
throw knuckle on a BIG press and press out the hub
replace studs
reassemble in reverse order.
I recommend taking it to a shop and just having them replace the hub and bearing.
The rears are easy though. You can change those in about 20 minutes.
12-13-2006, 06:26 AM
#20
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Re: new lug nut studs?? (nomoreavril)
there was a write up on this, here you go:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=907985
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=907985
12-13-2006, 06:55 AM
#22
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Re: (nomoreavril)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nomoreavril »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cool, but i'm guessing i'm going to need more than 20 dollars to get that hammer and crap?</TD></TR></TABLE>
you can buy the parts and do it yourself, or pay about $40 and have a mechanic do it. which if you think about it, how much are you really going to save doing it yourself. just sit back and have someone else do all the hard work.
you can buy the parts and do it yourself, or pay about $40 and have a mechanic do it. which if you think about it, how much are you really going to save doing it yourself. just sit back and have someone else do all the hard work.
12-13-2006, 06:58 AM
#23
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see, i need new axles, new brakes, and an alignment. i dont want to go into a shop and have that done while i have 1 working stud 
and i know the axles are gonna be like 400 dollars or so..
and i know the axles are gonna be like 400 dollars or so..
12-13-2006, 07:11 AM
#24
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Re: (nomoreavril)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nomoreavril »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">see, i need new axles, new brakes, and an alignment. i dont want to go into a shop and have that done while i have 1 working stud and i know the axles are gonna be like 400 dollars or so..</TD></TR></TABLE>
$400, is that what they charge now a days, DAMN!
who cares, they can't make you get all that work done. just tell them you're on for the stud and that's it.
if you risk delaying the repair of the stud, not only are you going to fix axle, brakes, stud, and alignment. you're going to need to replace the bearing as well which now the price has just gone up for parts and labor.
not to mention driving around like that is not safe.
and i know the axles are gonna be like 400 dollars or so..</TD></TR></TABLE>$400, is that what they charge now a days, DAMN!
who cares, they can't make you get all that work done. just tell them you're on for the stud and that's it.
if you risk delaying the repair of the stud, not only are you going to fix axle, brakes, stud, and alignment. you're going to need to replace the bearing as well which now the price has just gone up for parts and labor.
not to mention driving around like that is not safe.
12-13-2006, 07:27 AM
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Re: (philosofy1)
I just had to replace mine not to long ago.. cut off the old ones to a nub and hit them out with a hammer and something to push them all the way out with.. to get the new ones back in you might have to grind down one side of the new ones to get them to fit without messing up the threads.. when I say grind down I mean just part of the end of the bolt that keeps them held in there.. less hassle