random name

Well the time has come for me to get my first car
Ive had some ideas floating around my brain for awhile
just wondering what you guys think

About how much would EG run me
and what about swapping for a B18c5 or similar
also what suspension build would be ideal
Ive hear that getting stiffer springs in the back helps correct understeer
and gives you better control in the turns
and im completly lost on transmission

Any help would be apreciated


Modified by random name at 1:51 PM 1/17/2008

Remington

Some answers for you but really man read for a bit not one thing you asked hasn't been answered a thousand times in other threads


1. Check http://www.kbb.com
2. Check http://www.hmotorsonline.com and add a grand or more to be on the safe side
3. What do you want to do with the car?
4. Kind of, but to correct understeer check https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch
5. See above
6. The B swap will likely come with a 5 speed manual

random name

Thanx for the help
ill definatly read abunch more

does anyone know how many posts are needed a day before the trial ends?

skateboard_ej8

iTrader: (4)

Just advice, you need to work on your grammar and punctuation or else your going to have a hard time here. People will be flamming you on a daily basis every time you post. Use the spell check button to save you from spelling errors and think about everything you type before you post. I think your trial period ends after 20 days im not too sure. Good luck finding a car and welcome to H-T.

JKov240

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by random name &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">About how much would EG run me
and what about swapping for a B18c5 or similar
also what suspension build would be ideal
Ive hear that getting stiffer springs in the back helps correct understeer
and gives you better control in the turns
and im completly lost on transmission</TD></TR></TABLE>

1. I got my '94 Civic DX hatchback for $3,000 with 85K on the clock.
2. The motor/transmission/etc. will run from anywhere to $3,900 to $5,000...not including labor to install. I'd look into the B18C1 out of an Integra GS-R, it's a bit cheaper so you'll have money left over to kick around.
3. That's up to you and what you're going to be using the car for...but any name brand spring and strut would work out (you'll probably need camber kits as well).
4. I think that's what most aftermarket springs are designed for from the get-go...you may want to look into a bigger swaybar and reinforcement brace for the rear end as well.
5. Most B-series motors were 5-speed...so to make the swap easier, I'd look for a car that originall came with a 5-speed.



Oh yeah, and REEEEEEAD!!!!!! These topics are covered just about everyday...and I think the trial thing ends after 5 days or so.

random name

Thanks for the help man
I'll keep that in mind
Would you recomend any online car dealerships?
I'm looking for a good reliable site thats going to get me my moneys worth?

Probot

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by random name &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the help man
I'll keep that in mind
Would you recomend any online car dealerships?
I'm looking for a good reliable site thats going to get me my moneys worth?</TD></TR></TABLE>

http://www.hmotorsonline.com/ - probably the best place to get a swap from. they are a very reputable company.

mortificationrock

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by esco562 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just advice, you need to work on your grammar and punctuation or else your going to have a hard time here. People will be flamming you on a daily basis every time you post. Use the spell check button to save you from spelling errors and think about everything you type before you post. I think your trial period ends after 20 days im not too sure. Good luck finding a car and welcome to H-T. </TD></TR></TABLE>

For example.... its "New HERE" not "New Hear"
Well unless you were deaf before....

jhammond_82

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by random name &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Would you recomend any online car dealerships?
</TD></TR></TABLE> you can use ebay, and look into the dealer auctions. and if you google it, i'm sure you can find one.

Probot

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jhammond_82 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> you can use ebay, and look into the dealer auctions. and if you google it, i'm sure you can find one. </TD></TR></TABLE>


random name - if you want to get a motor online go to http://www.hmotorsonline.com - dont buy **** off of ebay, especially swaps

B18C5-EH2

I'll be happy to help - i own a 1992 hatch with a Type R swap, and have done a lot of swaps, I run a honda/Acura repair shop, etc. etc. I don't care if you misspell words as long as you leave it readable and properly spaced, hit tab every few sentences, etc.



An Eg can run from as cheap as $100.00 up to however much someone asks for provided it has been repainted, no dents, etc. $100.00 would get you likely a rusted beater that need major work including paint/body and drivetrain, etc. Some people buy absolute junk and completely rebuild/restore from the ground up.

I personally bought an EG for $300.00 and turned it into this:







Realistically stock running EGs from little old ladies go for between $1,500 to $5,500 or so depending on trim level (CX/DX/VX/Si) and condition/mileage. This would ne stock or stockish with stock engine. Obviously the high end would be the Si hatch in great shape commanding the $5,500.00 or so. Sounds crazy, but in some parts people pay it.

Swapping in a B18C5 is cake. If you can pull the old engine/tranny out, then you're capable of dropping the B18C5 in. If you want thorough detaiuls such as exact parts list, procedure fro the labor, etc. etc. we have an excellent FAQ topic stickied in this very forum you can look through. I myself have posted some topics regarding the swaps.

If you have specific Q's about it feel free to ask me via PM if you wish. this exact moment I'm busy at work and cannot go into HUGE detail and lay it all out, but I am capable of it from memory.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also what suspension build would be ideal
Ive hear that getting stiffer springs in the back helps correct understeer
and gives you better control in the turns </TD></TR></TABLE>

"Ideal" is too broad. What I love in my 1992 EG hatch (very stiff, very oversteer happy) suspension most others would hate. Hell my 1991 daily driver has softer Tein springs on stockish KYB shocks, so I'd hate my stiff 1992 set0up in my 1991 daily driver, and vice versa.

My 1992 hatch rotates with ease because of the set-up I'm running. I have Koni Yellows, and Eibach ERS coil-over springs with softer front rates than rears, and no front swaybar with a small rear swaybar. Obviously this set-up isn't for everyone, because it is ***-happy and can and will snap around on you if you are not familiar with it. I've pushed the limits of it and broken lose a few times on an auto-x course, and if you treat it like most people drive a FF car they'd total my car quite easily.



If you know exactly what you want from your suspension we can help you choose good brands, quality stuff, etc. Keep in mind that in order for better handing with stiffer stuff you will sacrifice ride quality, and if you want a stock-like ride you will sacrifice handling, etc.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and im completly lost on transmission</TD></TR></TABLE>

There's not much to really "know" as long as you buy the ITR tranny with the swap you'll be fine.

Lastly there are a TON of online stores selling swaps. It's definately "buyer beware" as most places are shitty, fly-by-night places that will sell you a swap for a "deal" but never send it. Never buy from anywhere in Canada either as BBB laws do not apply to them.

I've always used import Auto Salvage on the east coast - 1-800-962-8922 or http://www.hmotorsonline.com for weat coast, but there are other reputable swap sources if you do some extra research.

Stay far away from Ebay for swaps - period.

Again if you have specific Q's feel free to ask me if you'd like. You can post them here also so others besides myself can chip in. I just happen to be VERY well versed on the 92-95 Civic and particularly the Type R swap and most other B swaps.

www.megameet.org

just buy one thats already done by someone who knows what they are doing.

random name

This will definatly help me a lot
Another question sorry about this

Some people recomend a C5
And some poeple recomend a C1
I know that a C5 stock is around 195 horses
so thats very appealing of course
but its also rather expesive
Would the C1 be a better choice?
Ive heard that its great for aftermarket bolt-ons and such
And its definatly cheaper
But coulde i make up the lost hp for less than the purchas price of the C5?

B18C5-EH2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by random name &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This will definatly help me a lot
Another question sorry about this

Some people recomend a C5
And some poeple recomend a C1
I know that a C5 stock is around 195 horses
so thats very appealing of course
but its also rather expesive
Would the C1 be a better choice?
Ive heard that its great for aftermarket bolt-ons and such
And its definatly cheaper
But coulde i make up the lost hp for less than the purchas price of the C5?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I sold a perfectly running B18C1 swap to buy my B18C5, and I can tell you there is no way in hell you can get the same level of performance from buying a GS-R swap and trying to spend the money difference on mods to achieve Type R performance.

Others will say "you can make more power" blah blah blah and yes you could, but you would not have OE stock quality build, and you'd be lacking the better geared, LSD tranny.

I made 150whp/122 torque with my GS-R swap on the dyno

I made 175whp/122 torque with my B18C5, and that was before I added a header!

Both dyno trips/numbers were on the same dyno, so it was a good, true comparison.

...and before you think "well 175hp is low" this is measured at the wheels, which is the 100% true horsepower. 195hp is the flywheel rated hp.

I've also since added an inexpensive DC 2.5'' collector header and had it tuned to a better 178whp/130 torque with much, cmuch better midrange gains. Car pulls wonderfully.

So anyways yeah try making up a 25hp difference AND get a Type R tranny for the price difference from the C1 to C5 - ain't gonna happen unless you are an engine builder and you do all of your own work, and even then it'd be pushing it.

random name

Thanks abunch man
You've been a really big help to me

Well I guess Ill just have to read a lot more now
Thanks for your help everyone

www.megameet.org

the jdm motors have no number after them , so a b18c is better than the american c5 c1 ect.

austinkli

$300 to what we see in the pic huh, nice.

speedooo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


</TD></TR></TABLE>

i dont mean to threadjack...but thats the twin of my friends old coupe

www.megameet.org

twin? The mirrors are different, lights, moldings, tint, the only thing thats the same is the colour and the hood, but the quality on the hatch hood seems better on the hatch. Oh the wheels match, prob a different size though..

B18C5-EH2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by www.megameet.org &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">twin? The mirrors are different, lights, moldings, tint, the only thing thats the same is the colour and the hood, but the quality on the hatch hood seems better on the hatch. Oh the wheels match, prob a different size though..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually wheels are Spoon SW388 on my hatch - the ones on that coupe looks to be Rota, etc.

Nontheless the coupe loks very similiar, like a coupe version of my car appearance wise.