blue_egsi

hey guys i need help with my d16z6 motor.my buddy did a rebuild on my bottom block and he told me there is a specific way to start the engine before actually running the car again.can anyone help me or send me a link step by step.thank.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

If he assembled it correctly, you shouldn't need any special start-up, just a proper break-in. Just in case your buddy is stupid, or assembled it incorrectly, remove the fuel pump fuse, and the coil fuse, and try to turn the car over for 5 seconds. It obviously won't start, but it'll get the oil pump going.

Once you've done that, you need to follow proper break-in procedure. Fill with fresh break-in oil, start car, let it get to operating temperature while checking for leaks, and checking coolant level. Turn car off, drain oil, fill with fresh break-in oil again. Run the car hard for 50 miles. Dog it. Beat on it. Engine brake whenever you need to slow down. Drain oil, and fill again with fresh break-in oil. Run the car normally for 450 miles (total 500 on the tripmeter). Drain oil, fill with whatever oil you want to use, and continue your normal 3-5 thousand mile oil changes.

blue_egsi

thx

TomCat39

There is much debate, and opinions on "proper" break in.

This is another opinion:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I must say, I like the oil pump priming trick, even though the purpose of assembly lube is for the initial start up until the pump pushes oil through the engine and washes the lube away.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

TomCat, did you read what I said, and then read what he said? We're saying the same thing

And yes, the oil pump priming "trick" is an oooooldschool building method. People have been doing it since as long as they've been building motors. A lot of classic American muscle engines, as well as a lot of German engines actually have either a special tool, or a special gear for you to attach a drill to the engine and prime the oiling system.

shotoutacc0rd

I wouldn't do it for too long or some of the assembly lube may get washed away before the engine fires. But I bet a quick pulse or two would help get oil up to the head and around everywhere without washing the lube off since the starter is what a few hundred rpms and thus low oil pressure

andoxviii

iTrader: (1)

Washed away with what? OIL. Who cares if you wash away lube with lube. Either way, it's still lube.

Lube. Funny word.

Lube.

shotoutacc0rd

oil doesn't necessarily protect components well as assembly lube. Thats why its recommended to use assembly lube instead of oil when assembling an engine. I suppose if you're covering everything in oil seconds before its started that it won't matter quite as much though. I dunno exactly how it works ill try to remember ask some peoples who do it for a living

andoxviii

iTrader: (1)

Normal oil is typically thinner, and will run to the bottom of the oil pan. Assembly lube will generally stay where you apply it.

shotoutacc0rd

thats basically what I was thinking, especially since the oil pump is only being rotated by the starter and not at 5000rpms by the engine. Hence there's pretty low pressure. But personally, I would still only turn it over a few times just to get the lines, passages, and pump primed.

TomCat39

Yes and no.

You expanded immensely on the oil aspects, which I personally think is a little over kill but can definitely be considered best practice. I personally wouldn't change out the break in oil just after warm up prior to rpm ranges but that's me. I also would make sure I have a Napa Gold if not Platinum in for superior filtration. The shavings go to the pan then up through the oil pump through the filter. A crappy filter will not do you any good.

Then you gave a much less detailed method on the actual break in, dog it and threw in engine brake. This can be interpreted many different ways. Most people would instantly redline it a few times and forget the engine braking for a bit then maybe do an engine brake, etc.

The link I posted doesn't go into the same detail on the oil changing routine like you did but gets into very precise detail on the 40%-60% x 3, 40%-80% x 3, 30%-100% x 3 rpm with clear instructions not to use the car brakes to slow down but instead let the engine slow the car down to the % rpm required.

Between your post and the link I provided, I think it paints a very concise and detailed break in method that should not fail any motor that's been assembled properly.

tony_2018

Very informative, good discussion on break in process.

mithious

Agreed. I've been meaning to look this up. Informative.

All the oil changes seems easy enough, but I would honestly worry I'd screw up the break-in process.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

If you're afraid you might screw it up, do the initial warm-up yourself, then tow it to a tuner with a dyno. Tell your tuner it needs to be broken in, and they should be able to do it. Just make sure that if they have a roller brake, they don't use it.

mithious

Mind you, I'm afraid I'll screw most things up. Then I research the heck out of it, and give it a shot. I still screw up, but at a slightly lower percentage.