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Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000) EG/EH/EJ/EK/EM1 Discussion

New Distributor + Fuel Leak = Car Won't Start

Old 04-14-2006, 07:02 AM
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Default New Distributor + Fuel Leak = Car Won't Start

I just swapped a b20b into my 98 civic ex. Friday last week my car started running a little rough, bogging and what not. It was showing code 41 and code 4 if I remember correctly, so I thought it was my dizzy. I drove my other car to work. Well apparently my wife thought it would be a good idea to drive the civic and it broke down on her. She said at first it wouldn't accelerate past 40, then it wouldn't go past 20, and then she couldn't get it to start.

So the next day I replaced the distributor and notice a substantial fuel leak where the fuel feed line connects to the fuel rail, between the fuel feed line and the dampner assembly. I thought it was the gaskets so I replaced the crush washers today. I turned the key to the on position and let the fuel system pressurize and there was no leak! I was happy so I tried to start the car and it wouldn't. No detonation what so ever. So I thought maybe I messed up the distributor install. I removed it, made sure the rotor was on right and it was, set it at TDC, made sure the rotor pointed to number one, triple checked the plug wires, tried to start again and no luck. So I cranked and cranked for like 10 seconds and finally got it to detonate but it would run reeeeeal bad and die after a couple seconds. So I get out of the car and check the fuel rail and its leaking again! FYI: I'm using the stock harness, and obd2 dizzy and an obd1 ecu. I was told they'd work together since I'm using the jumper harness to convert to obd1. If anyone has any suggestions or experience with this kind of problem I'd appreciate the help. Thanks guys.
Old 04-14-2006, 08:50 AM
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Default Re: New Distributor + Fuel Leak = Car Won't Start (burningwrek)

afternoon bump
Old 04-14-2006, 11:25 AM
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First you need to fix the fuel leak and then go from there. you might not have enough pressure you need at least 30psi. If that dont work take #1 cylinder spark plug wire out and ground it on the valve cover and crank it over to check for spark. also check you plug gap. If you dont have spark it more than likely its your dizzy. if not email me back at jdmsi1320@yahoo.com and i will help you out as best as i can
Old 04-14-2006, 11:42 AM
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Default Re: (jdmsi1320)

Well I'm working on fixing the leak right now, but I've replaced the crush washers and it still leaks massively. I dunno what the deal is. What does the dampner assembly on the end of the fuel rail do? If that was bad would that cause a build up in pressure that may lead to a leak? Thats the only thing I can think of, that or something is wrong with the fuel feed line so that it leaks.

On the fuel feed line that slips over the end of the fuel rail, is the hole that goes through it supposed to be the same size all the way through or bigger on one side than the other because mine is.
Old 04-14-2006, 11:48 AM
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Default Re: (burningwrek)

the best advice I can give u is fix ur leak and kill ur wife
Old 04-14-2006, 07:38 PM
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Default Re: (TURBO-WAWA)

I'd appreciate only constructive replies, otherwise don't post.
Old 04-14-2006, 08:44 PM
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Default Re: (burningwrek)

ok then kill ur wife


jk
Old 04-15-2006, 05:16 PM
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Default Re: (burningwrek)

Anyone who knows something about Honda's?
Old 04-15-2006, 05:22 PM
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did u check the plugs? It sounds like ur getting a really shitty spark (or no spark) in one of the cyls, (not starting up, but when it does, really crappy)....ground the wires to the chassis, see if it creates a spark....if they all make a strong spark, see about changing hte plugs I guess :-\
Old 04-16-2006, 07:54 PM
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Default Re: (Syndacate)

Yea, I'll start going down the list as soon as I get this fuel leak figured out. Anyone have a fuel feed line for sale?
Old 04-21-2006, 07:27 AM
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Default Re: New Distributor + Fuel Leak = Car Won't Start (burningwrek)

well I finally got the fuel leak figured out. Car still won't start, however. I think I'm either getting no spark or very weak spark if at all. The distributor is brand new and I just changed the spark plugs. I'm going to check the condition of the distributor cap and rotor and possibly replace those. Some helpful suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks guys.
Old 04-21-2006, 08:17 AM
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Default Re: New Distributor + Fuel Leak = Car Won't Start (burningwrek)

I replaced the distributor car and the rotor, so it has a completely new distributor, dizzy cap, dizzy rotor and spark plugs and it still won't start. I tried to start it for about 15 seconds and it ran for about 3 seconds, very rough and then died. I dunno what the deal is. I'm using an obd2 dizzy so it would fit my harness, but the ecu is obd1. I dont think that would matter since Im using the conversion harness so my obd2 harness will plug into my obd1 ecu (p75). I'm stumped. I don't have the money to just drop this car off at a shop and tell them to make it run so I'm trying to do this myself.
Old 04-21-2006, 09:30 AM
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Default Re: New Distributor + Fuel Leak = Car Won't Start (burningwrek)

ttt
Old 04-21-2006, 09:39 AM
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i would suggest possibly new spark plug wires? just to make sure the wires are new which would rule out another possiblity of a problem
Old 04-21-2006, 09:48 AM
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Default Re: (riceburnerryan)

the plug wires look fine. Nice and rubbery, no cracks or anything. Keep in mind the car ran flawlessly for a week, until my CEL showed me a code 4 and code 41, which indicates a distributor problem. I'm thinking about just dropping it off at the Honda dealership and letting them screw around with it unless I can get some helpful feedback on here.
Old 04-21-2006, 11:28 AM
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Default Re: New Distributor + Fuel Leak = Car Won't Start (burningwrek)

before I go to work bump
Old 04-24-2006, 10:40 AM
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Default Re: New Distributor + Fuel Leak = Car Won't Start (burningwrek)

ttt
Old 04-25-2006, 07:03 PM
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Default Re: New Distributor + Fuel Leak = Car Won't Start (burningwrek)

someone out there has got to have some advice
Old 04-25-2006, 07:13 PM
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well, a code 4 is crankshaft position sensor, so i dont know why you thought it was a dizzy problem, but anyhow, check the crank sensor, and wiring. other than that, all i can think is maybe a bad conversion harness, they are know to be crap nomatter where they come from.
Old 04-26-2006, 09:38 AM
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Default Re: (schardbody)

the reason I thought it was a dizzy problem is because my crank position sensor is part of the dizzy. Is there anyone who knows anything about Hondas here?

The two codes I was showing was the code 4: Crank Position Sensor and the code 41: Primary Oxygen Sensor Heater. I replaced the distributor with an obd2 dizzy so it would fit my harness. Before I was using an obd1 dizzy that I chopped up and wired the obd2 plug to the 2 obd1 plugs so it would fit my harness, so i just figured that my wiring was no good and making my dizzy screw up.

Has anyone had any experience with this or know where I can find a jumper harness to convert an obd1 dizzy to the obd2 1 plug design?
Old 04-26-2006, 10:37 AM
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so you converted the obd2 dizzy to obd1, cuz you confused me, if you are using obd2 engine and obd2 harness/dizzy/inj your crank position sensor isnt in the dizzy.
Old 04-27-2006, 05:26 AM
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Default Re: (schardbody)

Heres what I have currently:
obd1 ecu
obd1 injectors
obd2-obd1 conversion harness for ecu
obd2 wiring harness
obd2 dizzy
jdm b20b (which might as well be obd1 because it doesn't have the crank position sensor near the crank pulley like the obd2 usdm motors do)

I first purchased an obd1 dizzy and cut the plugs and rewired it into an obd2 1 plug style so it would plug into my harness. But me, being the master electrician that I am, botched the wiring so it was throwing codes with the obd1 dizzy. It didn't occur to me until just now that using an obd2 dizzy on a jdm motor wont work because of the lack of the CKP sensor, so my timing is all jacked up.

So next question: Anyone know where I can find an obd1 --> obd2 distributor adapter harness so I don't have to chop up the plugs on perfectly good distributors?
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