kallmijonx2

put in a new clutch in (XTD stage 4 6 puck unsprung with HDPP) and now when i go start the car it grinds when im not pressing the clutch but goes away when i push the clutch in. Also noticed that when i push the clutch in, i cant get into any gears.

I got the flywheel resurfaced and the machinist said i might need a shim .020"-.025" cause they took off quite a bit. Didnt buy the shim cause i would have to get it custom made and didnt want to wait.

Quite a bit of trans fluid came out when we pulled the trans but i didnt refill. Would this cause my problem?

Just need some leads. Could be something common but maybe not.

vwtohonda

Low fluid could deff be your problem. Also, when you put the new clutch in, did you align it properly? Tighten PP in correct order?

SiR18EG

did you change the bearings when you changed the clutch?

kallmijonx2

yes i aligned it correctly. i made sure of that but then again i just learned how to do that in my manual trans class but if the inpput shaft of the trans slid it wouldnt it mean that the clutch is aligned correctly?

i changed the pilot bearing and the throwout bearing as well.

Would a bad clutch master cylinder be the problem as well? not sure

Former User

Sounds like a bad input shaft bearing in the transmission.

98civdx

^ i have heard a noise like discribing and thats what it turned out to be..

also why would you not refill the tranny!? thats just asking for problems.

kallmijonx2

i hope not its the input shaft bearing. dont feel like tearing the trans apart.

I didnt refill it cause i just wanted to see if everything checked out. Stupid yes i know.

Im going to be putting on the old TOB to see if that fixes anything.

Also, my cousin said he had the same prob on his gsx with the trans not shifting into gears w/o grinding. He said try adjusting the clutch pedal so it grabs higher. I'll be trying this out tonight too.

kallmijonx2

Update: i dropped the trans last night and did a few things that i hope fixes the problems

1. Re-aligned flywheel and clutch for re-assurance
2. Took out new TOB and put old Nachi bearing
3. Filled trans with Honda MTF

I still have to put the starter back on before i can see the results. I'll update this thread as soon as i do

kallmijonx2

triple post

slowassBubble

sounds like the throwout bering

kallmijonx2

hoping it is. also i checked if there was any play on the input shaft. there was no in/out play whatsoever and when i spun the shaft there was nothing out of the ordinary. sounded normal

took a break from the whip but getting back to it now. update in a bit

kallmijonx2

problem is still there. off clutch it sounds like something is grindingish. i was hoping it was just the clutch but highly doubt it. sounds really bad. clutch pressed sound goes away but i cant shift into gear

any input? this is pissing me off.

kallmijonx2

oh and just to describe the sound. imagine a fan and you run a stick along it so it touches the blades while its moving. its kinda like that sound but sounds worse cause its metal. not sure if that makes any sense but yea. gonna take a break from this for now till i can get more info on it

kallmijonx2

any guidance would be appreciated. Im kind of at a loss right now but i know the trans is going to have to come off again for the third time.

kallmijonx2

i previously stated that the machinist that resurfaced my flywheel said i MAY need a shim about (.020" to .025"). The correct numbers were .025" to .030"
One problem i was having is that when the car is on, i could not shift into gears but when the car was off it was all fine and dandy and could shift fine. I read that one of the problems could be my clutch is worn BUT its a brand new clutch. Im thinking that the space(.025" to .030") is making the clutch not grab on the flywheel as it should.

Also, comments that the problem could be the ISB. The car never had any problems before i did the clutch swap besides the clutch itself. What is the probability that during the time i pulled the trans the ISB went bad? Im thinking not very likely but what do i know lol.

Would an incorrect tightening sequence upon the pressure plate cause any kind of problems? Grinding noises? Im not saying that i did cause i feel like i didnt but just wondering.

Former User

You may have two separate problems.

1) The ISB died when the tranny was run without fluid.

2) The clutch pedal needs adjustment to allow the clutch friction disc to fully disengage from the flywheel.

burnykawizzle

first thing first before you took out the tranny was make sure you bled the clutch line right to see if the problem was fixed.. when you install the flywheel again make sure you hand tighten the bolts first then you tighten 1 bolt a little and move across the other side and jump around, making sure you tighten the bolts 1 by 1 more and more.. same thing with the pressure plate and the clutch... make sure that its even and on the correct spec... i used a measure torue wrench but it wasn't correct so i just used a normal wrench and the job was done perfect i also bled the clutch 3 times to make sure it was done properly i also have a stage 4 6puck clutch and i wanted to make sure everything was done right so i wouldn't have to spend double the amount and double work because of a mistake

kallmijonx2

yes i bled the clutch when i finished installing the trans but i'll do it again when i install the trans for the 3rd time >_<

also regarding the bolt tightening sequence. i'll have to take extra care upon doing so. i feel as if it could be something with my process that is causing the problem. would over-torquing the bolts be bad? not like extreme over (eg. PP bolts are 19ft/lbs i put it to 25 ft/lbs and the Flywheel bolts are 87 ft/lbs i put 90 ft/lbs)

thanks everyone for their input. i'll just have to be extra careful installing the clutch this time around. i'll update this as soon as i get that shim installed. Also, do you guys think i should use the new TOB that came with the kit or should i use old one?

burnykawizzle

when i did my clutch and flywheel i noticed that using the torque wrench it was still lose... my father told me are you crazy thinking its only 20lbs of torque and i said thats what the manual said and hes like no its just going to get loose and break something just tighten it all the way... NEVER HAD A PROBLEM with the over torquing of the flywheel and the clutch

kallmijonx2

wait..so what did you torque the PP to? cause yea 19 ft/lbs is weird and it seemed really loose still. should i tighten the PP till its actually sitting against the flywheel? or your saying 25 ft/lbs is okay?

burnykawizzle

i did it basically as hard as possible like for example... torque it like a motor mount but not superman hard but you want it to be tighten hard and you want to first tighten it by hand and then with the wrench, tighten it 1 whole turn or 2 then pick another screw across from it and work like until fully tighten because what happens is some screwns get tighten more than others first so its kind of not align properly... my father is a car junky and he knows his stuff he even knows how to work on semi's!!!!

burnykawizzle

oh and also change your rear main seal while your at it... dont want to go thru all that mission again once you start to leak...

kallmijonx2

thanks a lot burny. im kind of skeptical about tightening the PP down "as hard as possible but not superman tight" lol but i'll try it. to be on the safe side, i'll probably replace the bolts that hold the PP down to some stronger/newer ones.

kallmijonx2

oh and another quick question.

to save time if it still happens to have the same problems its having now, can i bolt up the trans and everything and just pop the cv axles without putting it into the hub or would it be better to just put everything back on? i know it doesnt take much time to remove the suspension stuff but kind of sick of putting back everything on just to find out it still has a problem.

b20hatchek

to see if your gonna have anyproblems you have to put everything back together and drive the car