DeathByBoost

I need help on this one, i just built my d16z6 and i started it up and it seems to run kinda rich and then at idle it bogs down and dies. When i bring it up to 1000 rpm, it stays normal, anything less and it dies out. My setup is d16z6, stock except: intake, crower stage 2 cam, aem camgear, upgraded crower valve train.

Soccerking3000

what is your valve-lash set at?

DeathByBoost

honestly i forgot to set it. Stupid me, what should i do then, could this cam cause this problem?

Soccerking3000

yea that'll do it lol set them to the specs crower gave to you with your cam, it should be something like .007 intake and .009 exhaust


Modified by Soccerking3000 at 11:04 AM 4/29/2006

DeathByBoost

would it be too much to ask you to explain why? Should i set it to oem specs or crowers specs?

Soccerking3000

crower specs, because either the valves might not be closing all the way if the lash is off and its causing you to lose compression in the lower rpms, or its too loose and the valves arent opening enough.

Soccerking3000

here is a writeup for you to go by:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1305086

DeathByBoost

Thank you so much man, i have three more quick questions if you can asnwer them, 1.) Would that possibily cause me to be running rich? 2.) Is it possible to run a stage 2 cam from crower in a d16z6, if i use those valve lash settings or do i have to tune just for a cam? 3.) I only ran it for 10 minutes, would i have totally screwed my engine?

scrappysofly

it probly wont hurt your engine and it could cause you to run rich if the valve lash is wrong intake opening to far or to long

DeathByBoost

yeah, my concern was that new piston rings on a piston might get "washed" out and screw up my compression.

Soccerking3000

the engine will be fine, as for running rich the valve lash really wont do cause you to run rich, i would use the settings i gave you for the lash thats what i use on my stage 2 cam, but i would have the car tuned afterwards to make sure everything is straight

DeathByBoost

could i use an adjustable fuel pressure regualtor to level off the pressure from being too rich? I know i'm rich now, cause the end of the plugs are wet with fuel

Soccerking3000

why is it running rich though? are you running a chipped p28 or something?

DeathByBoost

Soccerking3000, would it be ok to tell you the whole story and see what you think. You might have a better understanding of the situation

Soccerking3000

yea thats fine lol

DeathByBoost

I'm hoping you can be the one to help me out here that's all. I originally had a d15b7 in my chasis and all ran fine before the swap. The d16z6 was built with eagle rods, srp low compression pistons, aem cam gear, crower stage 2 turbo cam, crower valve train. I built it all and had everything checked and cleared as far as my knowledge. I still need to adjust the valve lash to crower specs like you said. They are about .004 off on both sides, so keep that in mind. Everything else is oem. OEM P28 virgin, which was ran on my d15b7 to check the condition before my d16z6 swap. The P28 ran fine. My fuel system ran fine on my d15b7. When it came time to crank it up, i let the engine prime up and then tried to crank it over. It took me about 6 times and pressing on the gas pedal to get it to turn over. It finally did and it got it run and then after 5 minutes, i let off the gas and it bogged out and died. The air fuel gauge read that it was running on the rich side at idle. Last night i tried to mess with it somemore and the plugs are shot, black and fuel all over the electrode.

My thoughts: 1.) Flooded the engine bad on start up and screwed up my plugs
2.) Won't idle case of plugs
3.) Valve lash is out of spec and causes bad idle
4.) Cam causes it to run rich and need adjustable fuel regulator
5.) Stuck open injector, might need to swap to olf fuel setup oem setup
6.) Messed up fuel filter????
7.) Timing/AEM cam gear?

Soccerking3000

well what i would do first is chip hte p28 and get a crome map going and adjust it so it isnt running so rich at idle. If you keep leaning it out and its still rich i would suggest checking the injectors for being stuck open like you said. Do you know what your base fuel pressure is? The stock p28 should be able to run that engine fine, but your suggest for the fuel filter is actually a good idea a clogged or poorly flowing filter can cause all sorts of problems and it is usually over looked.

Is the car having trouble staying going?you might want to mess with the idle screw because when the car is about to die, the ecu will pump some gas in ti get it going again. Try adjusting the idle via the adjustment screw or cable and see how that goes.

DeathByBoost

I haven't had the chance to work on it yet, cause i was going to have to wait till after exams and start back on it tommorow, but i check on something today. What do you think about this? Numbers 1 and 4 plugs are bone clean with alittle fuel smell, almost bone dry. Numbers 2 and 3 are black and have fuel all over them. If i was running really rich, wouldn't all four be black and messed up? I'm starting to think the injectors are bad or messing up. I still have my four original on the other engine, maybe i should swap those.

Soccerking3000

What injectors are you running now?

DeathByBoost

I have 2 sets of oem injectors, First set came from my d15b7 which i know ran fine , Second set are the same oem type tat came from another manifold and this is the first time i ran these oem ones. Maybe i should swap over to the other set. But what could explain my spark plugs? That's some weird ****.