slipyoke

Hey guys this is my first post. im about as green as they get.

i just traded my jeep for a 93 hatch with a D type VTEC engine and a Mitsubishi turbo on it. Im a mopar muscle guy and i wanted a decently cool car with decent mpg.

The guy i picked it up from said to get a decent pair of lowering springs. and wheels and tires. Now like i said im not racing it or doing anything to outlandish just want it to look and handle a little better.

and i would also like to have a tach. plz tell me what you think, and thanks for your time.

slipyoke

oh and if i get like 1.5 lower springs do i need different shocks?

and what would be a decent wheel and tire size? setup

A08

its really best to go with full coilovers as there is a lot of tuning that goes into suspension to really get the handling benefeits from modifying it. if you are just lowering the car for asthetics, then springs are fine, stock shocks are fine, camber kit may be necessary but 1.5 inch drop isnt much so that may not be needed either.. other can chime in on this

delsizzle1

im not really the coilover kind of guy so i installed some kyb gr2 shocks with some skunk2 lowering springs 2 1/4 drop in the back and 2 1/2 in the front and my sol feels nice and tight and very comfortable... but unless u wanna change the shocks go ahead but for such a small drop u dont have to change em out unless they are already blown out.... i like a 15" riim sittin on 205-50-15 lots a meat wit a decent size rim and combined with a nice setup for suspension calls for a really nice tight ride in my opinion

slipyoke

If i do a 2" or more drop am i going to need to do any other suspension work?

g35silversurfer

Here ya go man


1. lower it. get some nice struts and coilovers. You can find a nice used set of "full" coilovers/struts for $250 sometimes.
I have kyb struts with ground control coilovers. And quite a few ppl will agree that's a good set up. So I'm able to slam my civic or raise it if I want. as you probably know, you can adjust them with a spanning tool. they're just threaded collars.

2. Find out if you have sway bars. If you don't get a complete front and rear sway bar set up. your control arms will not have the holes to mount them, so you'll need the sway bars and control arms to put them in. 94-01 integra parts work. or 92-95 civic ex si parts work. you'll need civic ex or si sways.... or integra ls, gs, gsr sways.
If you go with integra type r rear sway you'll have to buy a subframe brace, and your car will fishtail easy because it's such a thick bar.

all models that have the set up have a 20mm+/- sway up front and a 14mm+/- sway in rear.
The type r integra has the really thick rear sway that will take time to get used to.
I hear its so stiff that it can make you fishtail easy. and If you do get it you have to get a rear subframe brace so it doesn't tear out your subframe. once again, it's a thick bar.
Personally, after all the research I've done, it's not worth it. unless it's your "track car" in my opinion. and even though I'm going with the thinner rear sway, i'll probably still get the subframe brace just because it looks so cool


3. nice tires 205 50 15 is the best set up in my opinion. Theres many nice integra 15'' rims you can get for pretty cheap.

4. strut bars. some ppl say don't get them because they don't do as much as a sway bar set up does. But in my opinion. they do enough that they're worth getting. and look very cool.

so your looking at $250-$500 for a decent strut/coilover set up. "used"- make sure the struts arent blown. "new" $500+

sway set up can cost anywhere from $100-$200 then subframe brace is more $ if you get that.

strut bars can be cheap if you get no name ebay ones. I got a jdm spoon sports front strut bar for only $114 shipped on ebay. real good deal

tires $300-$500+ depending on what you chose.

also, if you lower it... camber kits, atleast for the front so your tires dont wear crappy.

The best order to do the stuff in -if your not just trying to slam your car as fast as you can because it looks so nice that way- is:

Sway bars
tires
struts/coilovers
strut bars.

slipyoke

Thanks man you are a lot of help

g35silversurfer

ps. As for a tachometer. Dont put a giant 4'' tach screwed into your dash. And don't put a gauge pillar on the side. Keep it clean. Keep it oem. and don't rice it out like dumbasses do

if you want a tach, source a ex, or si model gauge cluster. They come with tach and plug right in just like yours does.

your welcome

slipyoke

No worrys i am by no means gunna rice it out. Im an old school muscle car guy first thing you learn is how to be classy! lol

apexi_rsx

yeah well most those muscle car guys like to drive around with a 8" tach on their dashboard its looks tacky in any car import or muscle.

slipyoke

Agreed

NOFX

slipyoke, I think I might have a connection for paint for your hatch later on. Your color code is in your driver's door jamb (probably starts with NH, since it's a "neutral" color). It should be a code for Phantom Gray Pearl IIRC, but that will verify that it is.


Granted your Jeep wasn't something I'd call classy, but more "in your face". I loved it!


I wouldn't say most. I've seen people with different tastes drive lots of different makes of cars (USUALLY giant tachs are on imports btw). Either way, if it's not your car there certainly isn't any reason to worry about it. If the OP really wanted to get an giant tachometer, more power to him.

alphalanos

tires/wheels are first. there are some good tires in 195/50/15, and 205/50/15, but the 205 are a little too big for your car. Find some light 15" wheels such as Enkei RPF1 (9.5 lbs), Rota Slipstreams (13 lbs) or something along those lines.

Then decide if you want adjustability in your suspension. Many people go with Koni yellow shocks and Ground Control coil sleeves. this gives you the option of changing ride height and adjusting shock rebound. Also you can order them with custom rate springs if you want to change later.

The addition of a rear sway bar can greatly improve your handling. The size depends on what type of handling you want, the larger the rear sway the more oversteer the car will have. I personally use a 22mm CTR rear bar, with the ASR subframe brace, and a stock front bar on my 96 and love it.

Also make sure to check all the bushings for wear along with ball joints, tie rods, etc.

Overall just go slow and do lots of reading on parts you might want to see if they fit the bill.

votoms888

1.) It all depends what your budget is. I would steer away from used suspension parts because most of the time you will have issues. Also in terms of just using lowering springs, you will just end up killing your shocks if they aren't already dead. The stock shocks weren't designed to work at a lowered height. You can get a coilover setup from Progress for under $600 shipped which is not alot more than KYB GR-2s and a set of good springs. There are alot of good reviews on the internet on the Progress setup. I personally have Koni Yellow/Ground Control setup but will be switching to T1R Bmax setup as soon as it arrives. If you want to get something decent that is fully adjustable height/dampening you are looking at around $1K.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/wheels-tires-brakes-suspension-48/progress-coil-over-special-promotion-2692801/

http://www.progressauto.com/products/productID/634

2.) Swaybars are a very nice upgrade but a little more work to piece together as your car didn't come with any. I have a '96 CX and to add swaybars I had to source front LCA's, front forks, front swaybar and mounts, rear swaybar and mounts and then endlinks. Not 100% sure if you need to swap that many parts in an EG tho.

3.) Next would be wheels and tires. They make a huge difference especially if your car is putting out more power than stock seeing as it is already turbo'd. Not only traction wise but also handling. The weight of your wheels also makes a big difference. The stock 14" steelies on your car, are if i remember correctly around 18lbs. If you get something alot lighter like Alphalanos said you will notice your car will be alot more responsive. I agree with him on the Enkei RPF-1, they are pretty light and strong and don't break the bank. Another alternative would be Konig Heliums which are also light and alot of people run them on their civics and miatas on the track. Try and stick with 15" as the tires are cheaper too. Tires are a huge factor too. I am running Falken Azenis RT-615 which is a more of a race tire but the grip is awesome. You might not need to go that hardcore but don't buy cheap tires because you will regret it. (ie Nankang etc.) Falken, Toyo, Kumho and Handkook have some really decent tires at low prices.

GL with your search.

slammed4dreg

205 50 15 FTL tires are more expensive than the 195 50 and if dropped enough they'll rub in my opinon you should get some function and form best bang for ur buck. if you dont wanna spend that much just get some tien springs on the stock struts or upgrade to tokicos or kyb

slammed4dreg

good luck with whatever u choose

ehLAaay

Enkei RPF1's are nice as a matter of fact i got a whole set sitting here in the shop, but if you do decide to get any sort of rims, make it a priority to get some really good wheel locks to go with it, nothing sucks more than getting your rims jacked, that's why i haven't bought the Enkei's and put them on my EG (btw i live in L.A. and even though it's not as common to get jacked for your rims people still do it), as for suspension, parts on ebay aren't as bad as everyone thinks they are, just make sure you buy from Top Rated sellers, Front Camber kits for an EG easily $50-60

NOFX

OP already has some wheels IIRC. Not sure what they are though besides multi-spoked and a bronze (or dirty gold) color.