mingbling96

In the front two, when I try to bleed it with my friend, there is always never ending air bubble coming out. They are tiny tiny lil air bubbles, but nontheless their still there, after like 20 times pumping and releasing.. The brakes feel okae, like its been bled properly, but i have this uneasy feeling that there's still air in the system. What do you guys think it is. It could be that the rubber thingy i'm using over the nipple mite not be tight enough. and yes.. im bleeding it correctly... pump 4 times hold.. release valve, close valve, the lift n pump again. so its not my bleeding ways.

JDMlyfestyle

are you leaving the Master Cylinder cover off while u bleed the brakes. did you bleed them in the proper order?

the proper order is
1. Pass Rear
2 Driver Rear
3 pass front
4 driver front

mingbling96

yes.. im left the master cylinder cover off. . I dont think that will make a difference.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

I had the same problem with the drivers side rear after a rear disc swap. I later found that one of the fittings on the proportioning valve was wet w/ brake fluid. I traced the brake lines & found it to be the one leading to that same caliper. After tightening it down really good, I re-bleed that caliper, and all the bubbles went away.

Also, make sure you keep the fluid level above minimum, and make sure air isn't being sucked back into the caliper through the bleed tubes.

Good luck...

mingbling96

funny u mentioned that.. i just replaced my prop valve. I'll look at it more closely, but I dont see any leaks at the prop valve. I'm also scared of tightening it anymore since the bolts are rounded pretty badly.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

You should ONLY use a flare-nut wrench on these parts. If you round those things off, you are in deep ****. You also have to remember that these lines don't have seals, they are pressure fit. It takes a bit of torque to keep that slipery *** fluid inside those lines. I suggest you get a Flare-Nut wrench and give them a little more tourqe. Pep Boys sells combo ones w/ 10mm & 12mm together. If you can find it, get a 10mm/8mm combo (since your clutch bleeder is 8mm).

If you don't see a leak, start the car & pump the brakes really hard. If there are any air leaks your brake booster should be able to push fluid out of them alowing you to see a wet spot.

Good luck...

P.S. Are you bleeding in proper sequence? Because of ABS & weird proportioning systems on Non-ABS hondas, the sequence is different for different cars. Double check.

bignutz23

try vacumm bleeding the system

Rodney

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMlyfestyle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
the proper order is
1. Pass Rear
2 Driver Rear
3 pass front
4 driver front</TD></TR></TABLE>

INCORRECT! if it is a EG/EK, the proper sequence is:

1. Rear Right
2. Front Left
3. Rear Left
4. Front Right

JDMlyfestyle

my method has never failed on me in 3 years and thats they way ive always done it.

_Cyclone_

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rodney &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

INCORRECT! if it is a EG/EK, the proper sequence is:

1. Rear Right
2. Front Left
3. Rear Left
4. Front Right</TD></TR></TABLE>

He's right, according to my Helms manual anyways. This is the sequence I bleed my brakes in and it works.

IVI

if your flushing the entire system it doesnt matter which way you bleed it.

if your only bleeding the air out and still have brake fluid not being circulated fully then it matters.

i reccommend draining the master with a pump or turkey baster, filling up with fresh fluid, then bleeding until completely fresh clean fluid comes out of the bleeder, and there is no remains of dirty fluid in the master.

the way i bleed is usually with a buddy, if not i gravity bleed.
with a friend, open the bleeder, have accomplice slowly depress the pedal fully and hold it. then close the bleeder, accomplice can let go of the pedal, then reopen and pump / hold, close, repeat around 10-15 times.

if your leaking from the prop valve, then your always going to get air into the system. the hydraulic system works with pressure, if you cant sustain pressure, you cant use your brakes properly.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

Just follow the manuel. Get your own book, and you won't have to trust anybody else.

How can any of you guys tell how he needs to bleed his brakes? You don't even know what car he has?

IVI

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just follow the manuel. Get your own book, and you won't have to trust anybody else.

How can any of you guys tell how he needs to bleed his brakes? You don't even know what car he has?</TD></TR></TABLE>

wow you are right, i just noticed, he never posted his car info.

cxSHOE

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rodney &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

INCORRECT! if it is a EG/EK, the proper sequence is:

1. Rear Right
2. Front Left
3. Rear Left
4. Front Right</TD></TR></TABLE>


actually there is no REAL brake bleeing order... i know because i have been bleeding my brakes in different combination to proof it to myself. (for some reason people want to be correct).. ive done it 5 times so far. try it and tell me im wrong.

and also you might want to bench bleed the m/c.... or maybe you have an internal leak.

Rodney

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IVI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow you are right, i just noticed, he never posted his car info.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well, he is posting in the eg/ek forum... besides, i spoke with him on pm and he has an eg...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cxSHOE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">actually there is no REAL brake bleeing order... </TD></TR></TABLE>

well, i just wanted to make sure he has the correct information. if you have a ton of air in the lines, bleeding it correctly is the only way. if you have no air, and are just swapping fuild, then other ways may suffice, but they are still not the proper way to do it.

mingbling96

okae.. im lost. I double checked all my hoses, no leaks in the prop valve, no leaks any where. This one wheel just cannot be bled. I just flushed out my friends car's brake fluid too, and his was easy to bleed.. but for some reason, mine just won't bleed. Could a bad caliper cause this to happen? but yet no leaks??!?

mingbling96

1 other thing, when i took off my caliper because of a stripped bolt, i think the fluid on the master cylinder went empty. Usually you're suppose to bench bleed the MC, but when it did go empty, i didnt. I dont think i have to take the MC out again and bench bleed it, if thats the case, dats ghey.
I'm thinking about trying the vacuum pump, but i'll just get the exact same result.. neverending air. Somebody help me out..!!

jlacoy82

Just a word of advice......if you round the flare nuts off, channel locks are your best friend.

mingbling96

ya.. but their not the prob.. their rounded but still hav enough grip for me to tighten it down. Also the one line that is rounded is from the MC to the prop valve.. worst comes to worse, i just replace that short lil line.

mingbling96

n e body

fishnfst

Get a flare nut wrench and do it right the first time. If you let all of your brake fluid drain out when you were doing your rear swap or any work on your brakes it is going to take a long time for you to get all of the air out unless you have some type of vacuum bleed system. You may have to bleed your brakes 5 or 6 times over the course of a couple of weeks to get all of the air out of them.

Word to the wise don't let your brake lines just hang and drain whenever you disconnect them. You will have this same problem..

mingbling96

i went through 2 bottles of brake fluid already. the flare nut wrench is not an issue any more since there's no leak. So you saying to just keep bleeding endlessly, and hopefully the air will dissapear?
Why is the vacuum bleeder so much more efficient than normal bleeding? or with the speed bleder screw? is there a reason why vacuum bleeding would work, and normal bleeding won't?

hott95eg

the proper bleeding sequence is longest line to shortest-RR,LR,RF,LF