jnk625

I have a 97 Civic Ex i took in on trade, custom Black paintjob, cold air intake,exhaust,Aem pully, Short shifter, rims, carbon fiber spoiler, mirrors, blue emblems, imaculant interior, not to mention the stereo. Kbb was 7,000 bucks. I drove it and was inpressed with the power so i bought it. The guy who traded it said it had 30k on the new motor. We'll since i am ready to add to this i have learned about the upgrades. Problem is i couldnt find anyone who had my motor. Until here. Its a d16y7. Not impressive. But to drive this car is! How can i tell whats been done internally? This guy had to have been into his car. Why would he down grade what came in it and spend the time to remodify it?
Bottom line what can i get out of this motor? Is it worth messing with? The car itself is ****** badass, but i know me and the money i have put into my mustang will be put into something else now. But since i got it so cheap it seems worth keeping. What do ya'll think? Whats possible and whats not. What should be some of the first things i do to it. And like i asked how can i tell whats been done internally (cams etc) so far. Theres blue writing all over the place so its been swapped. I can also see by the wrenching it has. I know these are newbie questions but ....i am a newbie civic owner!! Thanks

I posted this on the 14th page of the swap thread but thought it would get seen here first.

Brian Hinson

If its a EX, then its a D16Y8, not D16Y7.

I dunno about how to tell if the internals have been changed, but if its a single cam, more then likly most people are going to tell you to swap it out with something "bigger and better"

But I for one like the single cam. IF by some chance its a Y7, you can do a Vtec headswap along with a slew of bolt on upgrades and make some decent power.

Or either way you could change the rods and pistons and boost it

But always remember, its your car, do whatever makes you happy, but more importantly just have fun with it. Good luck!

VTiVTo8000rpm

Welcome to Honda's, hope your stay is enjoyable

Check the engine code located left side of engine block near header for engine code

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BrianHinson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Or either way you could change the rods and pistons and boost it </TD></TR></TABLE>

Best thing for SOHC Hondas

jnk625

Thanks for the info. It was swapped and its indeed a d16y7 the code is P2F-HA1.

This is gonna be fun. I just dont know what to hope to achieve.

Now i need to research a vtech headswap. Whats involved with that? Thanks for the help.

civictildeath

P2F-HA1 sounds like a tranny code
what does it say right here??(tip of my finger)

Unjockable

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civictildeath &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">P2F-HA1 sounds like a tranny code
what does it say right here??(tip of my finger)

</TD></TR></TABLE>


daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaamnnnnnnn, that's a lot of rust.

komat

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jnk625 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the info. It was swapped and its indeed a d16y7 the code is P2F-HA1.

This is gonna be fun. I just dont know what to hope to achieve.

Now i need to research a vtech headswap. Whats involved with that? Thanks for the help.</TD></TR></TABLE>

its vtec not vtech as in the phone company

civictildeath

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Unjockable &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaamnn nnnnn, that's a lot of rust. </TD></TR></TABLE>

ya it got fuct up in a wreck and the garage that was suppose to fix it (my cat could do a better job) left it sit outside for a week or two uncovered and the hood was gone want to kick some *** but decided to keep the $800 i owe them

hellshock2182

holy rust!..... batman

Radyjr

iTrader: (4)

hey man congrats on getting a civic. keep it clean and treat it good and it will keep you in good terms....

d16rice

If you know it's a non-vtec then there's no point in checking the code, but the easiest way to see it on a 96-00 is the intake manifold. If you have an aluminum intake manifold with a throttle body pointing to passenger side, it's vtec, otherwise (TB pointing up) it's non-vtec.

There are a few things you can check for internally. First buy a repair manual and a gauge to check the compression ratio. If the ratio is higher than what it's supposed to be, then you have aftermarket pistons.
In the repair manual, there are a lot of test's you can do to check if certain parts are operating according to manufacturers standards. Since you say the car is running perfectly, the deviations from manufacturers specs would mean upgrades.

Enjoy it.

pdiggitydogg

Compression could also be higher due to a different thickness headgasket, milled head, or in the other direction from blown rings.

That amount of rust isnt THAT bad...mine is worse in certain places

jnk625

checked where your finger is and it says d16y7. But the throttle body position and cold air intake is identical to every vtec i have looked at. The d16y7 is not vtec. I like to put some pics on here of it. But anyway, thanks for the replys, i have no clue what i got here!!

Archidictus

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jnk625 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">checked where your finger is and it says d16y7. But the throttle body position and cold air intake is identical to every vtec i have looked at. The d16y7 is not vtec. I like to put some pics on here of it. But anyway, thanks for the replys, i have no clue what i got here!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Probably either a mini-me swap (VTEC head on a non-VTEC block) or a Y7 with the Y8 intake manifold. Take the valve cover off and take a pic for us. We'll let you know

d16rice

What might have happened was that the previous owner had to replace the bottom end. Since pretty much all D blocks are the same, it didn't matter which he used. What makes the car a vtec is a head. I have a mini-me, which means my engine code is also D16Y7, but it's actually a vtec.
One easy way to check this is the vtec solenoid. If it's vtec, the solenoid will be located in the back of the valve cover on the passenger side.
Also, you can check for ECU code (ecu is located under the kick panel on the passenger side) P2P ecu = Vtec, where as P2E = non-Vtec.

d16rice

took me a while to find the codes, but here they are:

ECU/ENGINE

P06 – 1.5l SOHC ----- OBD1 - LX, DX
P28 – 1.6l SOHC Vtec OBD1 - EX, Si
P2E – 1.6l SOHC ----- OBD2 - CX, DX, LX
P2T – 1.6l DOHC Vtec OBD2 - Si
P2N – 1.6l SOHC Vtec OBD2 - HX
P2P – 1.6l SOHC Vtec OBD2 - EX
P72 – 1.8l DOHC Vtec OBD2 - GSR
P75 – 1.8l DOHC ----- OBD2 - LS

You most likely have one of the ECU's I marked in bold, but then again, some
people change their's to OBD-1 or even to integra ECU for better tuning.
Anyway, once you know what ECU you have, you'll know what engine you have.

That's what I love about Honda's, they're like LEGO, you can take one piece of and easily replace it with another one.