stevanrk

So today was the day for doing it all. integra brakes onto a 95 civic, but, like always, something has to go wrong. The only thing I got installed was the proportioning valve which was a pain with my big hands but no leaks so it was fine. I started trying to disconnect the left rear rubber to hard brake line connection and it didn't budge. I WAS using a flare wrench but nothing. I even started stripping it with the flare wrench. I went at it with a plumbers wrench, but still nothing. I heated it too during all of this, but it didn't do anything. I was trying to undo it counterclockwise. Is this correct or are these backwards? Well, I manage to undo it enough so that I have a leak and now I can't tighten it back up enough. What do you all recommend? I am now thinking of having a car shop just redo all my rubber hoses, that way they fix my [freak] up and they break the seals on all the other ones too so I can undo them easier afterwards. I really don't want to do this cause they'll charge me a lot for rubber hoses which I don't want (I have SS lines ready to go), and a brake bleed which I can do myself. Thanks in advance.
Regards,
Steve

HyperXK

I'm gonna be just starting this soon myslef, just need to find out what I need to complete this

stevanrk

I have some pics to show but the pic inserter doesn't work. Bump

geebs

the rubber hose isn't the problem..
it's the hard line that screws into the rubber hose.
the best way i found was to soak the nut and threads with brake fluid.
brake fluid absorbs moisture..
if the nut is stripper.. try soaking it. then get some vice grips and try to get it off. you might have to cut the pipe and put a new nut on and reflare it.
not too sure on how much slack you have on that hard line, but if you just cut the flare off and pull the nut off and replace it, and reflare it, you might only loose like a few millimeters of the hard line.

Historyg

i had the same issue when i did my swap, you should use vice grip needle nose plyers and be brave, brake lines are a bitch to undo especially in a 10+ year old car.

if the nut is old it will strip no matter what line wrenches you have, i have a total of three companys in line wrenches and they all strip old bolts, i even went out and spent 150 dollars on a snapon line wrench set which did nothing for me.

when i work on my car I always expect the worse to happen because most of the time it does, its just how it goes, keep your head up.

stevanrk

Well I just went to the junkyard and undid 5 different honda civic rear brake lines without a problem. They weren't difficult at all. I hate my car now. I coul be driving with a full integra swap right now. I will have to purchase the vice grips to try them, but that should fix everything I'm sure. Maybe next weekend. The one thing I did which I shouldn't have done with my car is take the u-clip out before trying to undo the line. I looked at my replacement SS line and it had a nut on the end whereas my stock rubber is round with no nut. The U-clip holds a half nut shaped piece of metal in a perfect fit with the bracket on the car, preventing any rotation while you try to crakc the nut. Even after putting the u-clip back, however, it didn't work. I think the vice grips are my only hope and I really hope that I don't have to reflare. I have the flaring tool, but never had to use it. Thanks again
Steve

gsxr1k05

cut the hard line from a car at the junkyard and get the fitting. then cut your line and reflare it. the 95 teg flexible line that your going to be using from the hard line to the calipers will have enough slack in it for you to cut the hard line right before the fitting on your car. and just use PB Blaster on EVEYRTHING back there. i had a frozen bolt where the shock mounts to the lower control arm, so i had to get a new one from the junk yard on the driver side, and a frozen bolt on the trailing arm where the lower control arm mounts to it on the passenger side. i ended up having to change the spindle and everything over the the stock honda trailing arm (which works no problem cause they are the same arm on the civic and teg). any questions feel free to ask me. i have dont this swap on a 95 civic and a 90 crx. i also did the 1" master cylinder/booster and prop valve upgrade on both cars.

stevanrk

Thanks gsxr. I will try reusing the stripped nut first bu simply using the vice grip to loosen and retighten. If it leaks then I can obviously go get one of the 5 fittings I loosened at the junkyard.