NEED HELP W/HAND BRAKE~~~~
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NEED HELP W/HAND BRAKE~~~~
I have an EG that the hand brake isn't working properly. Its a 94 Si with all 4 brake rotors, i just change brake pads and now when i put the hand brakes up, seems like only the passengers back side is grabbing and the drivers back side is not. I've tried tighting the brake line from the inside of the car, but that still didn't help. Does anyone else know of a different method to have this problem resolved? All advices are welcome'd, thanks. TIA!
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Re: NEED HELP W/HAND BRAKE~~~~ (OCjuice)
check the cables at the caliper, I had a pin fall out once and this same thing happened to me. I had to use a machine screw and two nuts locked together in place of the pin I lost on the road till I could get to the dealer. good luck
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Re: NEED HELP W/HAND BRAKE~~~~ (SpydiR)
yea the fluids are perfect, i bled them like 5 times. its the cables, i just need to find a way to tighten up the cable. Seems like the cable is somewat loose on that side.
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#10
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Re: NEED HELP W/HAND BRAKE~~~~ (SpydiR)
before you do all of that, if you have access to 4 jackstands, which i highly recommend, or if you can bleed your brakes from the ground do these steps.
inspect the cable mounts for damage constricting the cable, make sure all hardware including the circlip that hold the cable to the caliper is in place, thats the basic stuff.
next, make sure your on a flat surface if your bleeding from the ground, which you should be able to do. when you change the proportioning valve, you have to bleed in a specific sequence, said below, but, make sure the parking brake is not engaged, what this does, is if there is air in the system, it will sit in the ebrake portion of the caliper, and make braking suck.
Also, if you bleed with the ebrake up, this fills the ebrake section with fluid, so when you release the brake the fluid has no where to go, and will rub the rotor untill it is fixed. contrary to what most think, the ebrake module is fluid driven, and controlled by a spring, it is not a total mechanical setup like the drum ebrake is, since design prohibits this.
ebrake off, and fully unadjusted, bleed the car in this sequence,
front
2 4
3 1
back
fill the master up with fluid, and bleed the brakes in that pattern,pump the pedal before lossening each one, to push any air through the line, then pop it open, press the pedal a few times, then close it, and you should be done, repeat for all four tires, the reason this pattern must be followed is to ensure all the passages of the proportioning valve fill with fluid, if not you will never reach full brake performance, after they are all bled, refill the master cylinder, and adjust the parking brake, make note of the equalizer position, and make sure it pulls on both cables fairly uniformly, if one side ***** more than the other, odds are there is too much fluid in that caliper, making ebraking easier on that side, and locking the other side from the torque you put on the lever, make sure it stays straigh for the most part, a turn here or there doesnt hurt, but make sure it engages and disengages the same way, if the cable fails to retract, keeping the equalizer bent, odds are the cable is bent, or smashed, make sure you have good cables.
I hope this helps some.
inspect the cable mounts for damage constricting the cable, make sure all hardware including the circlip that hold the cable to the caliper is in place, thats the basic stuff.
next, make sure your on a flat surface if your bleeding from the ground, which you should be able to do. when you change the proportioning valve, you have to bleed in a specific sequence, said below, but, make sure the parking brake is not engaged, what this does, is if there is air in the system, it will sit in the ebrake portion of the caliper, and make braking suck.
Also, if you bleed with the ebrake up, this fills the ebrake section with fluid, so when you release the brake the fluid has no where to go, and will rub the rotor untill it is fixed. contrary to what most think, the ebrake module is fluid driven, and controlled by a spring, it is not a total mechanical setup like the drum ebrake is, since design prohibits this.
ebrake off, and fully unadjusted, bleed the car in this sequence,
front
2 4
3 1
back
fill the master up with fluid, and bleed the brakes in that pattern,pump the pedal before lossening each one, to push any air through the line, then pop it open, press the pedal a few times, then close it, and you should be done, repeat for all four tires, the reason this pattern must be followed is to ensure all the passages of the proportioning valve fill with fluid, if not you will never reach full brake performance, after they are all bled, refill the master cylinder, and adjust the parking brake, make note of the equalizer position, and make sure it pulls on both cables fairly uniformly, if one side ***** more than the other, odds are there is too much fluid in that caliper, making ebraking easier on that side, and locking the other side from the torque you put on the lever, make sure it stays straigh for the most part, a turn here or there doesnt hurt, but make sure it engages and disengages the same way, if the cable fails to retract, keeping the equalizer bent, odds are the cable is bent, or smashed, make sure you have good cables.
I hope this helps some.
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