JDMlyfestyle

I just replaced my thermostat and now my temp gauge doesnt work. y? ground and sensor are both connected

quik1

Make sure that all the air is out of the cooling system let the car run with the rad cap off.

JDMlyfestyle

if air is still in the system would it make the gauge not work?

TeamNextGenChris

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMlifestyle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if air is still in the system would it make the gauge not work?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i think it would still read even with no water.
make sure you didn't unplug the sensor or mess with the wiring while working that area.
chris

Aceman64

I dont know your experience level so dont take offense to this, but are you sure you have everything connected back to where it was? I dont know what you took off, but I have seen various sensors plugged into the wrong connector before.


-Ace

JDMlyfestyle

i didnt mess with any of the wires just those 2 the ground and the temp sensor

quik1

If there in no coolant I don't think it will read. Does your heater work?

TeamNextGenChris

make sure the temp sensor plug is secure.maybe check the pins on the plug-make sure they are still locked into the plug body.it has to be something in that area.
chris

Aceman64

How long did you let it run before you decided the gauge doesnt work?

-Ace

EvilPinkEye

hell, just replaced mine today, car seems to warm-up faster but the res-tank over-flowed, too much coolant maybe?? or a faulty thermo

TeamNextGenChris

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EvilPinkEye &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hell, just replaced mine today, car seems to warm-up faster but the res-tank over-flowed, too much coolant maybe?? or a faulty thermo </TD></TR></TABLE>
did you have the cap secured good?try replacing the cap-the springs can get weak over time and allow it open at too low of a pressure.only costs a few bucks.
chris

Jimmy

iTrader: (5)

bump

JDMlyfestyle

i let the car warm up for about 5 mins and i took it on a 5 mile drive not going over 55. and it still does not move. the gauge was working fine last night. and it worked when i went at 2 to pick up the thermo stat

milo

its gotta be the in the ect/thermostat area. try sanding the connectors on the ect just to make sure its getting a good continuity. if that doesnt work, put back the old thermostat and see if that works... goodluck
btw, did you get a honda thermostat?

JDMlyfestyle

upper radiator hose is hot as hell and the bottom one is cold as can be. car has been running for 22 mins as of right now.

milo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMlifestyle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">upper radiator hose is hot as hell and the bottom one is cold as can be. car has been running for 22 mins as of right now.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats because the thermostat hasnt opened... but the gauge should be working

JDMlyfestyle

i got a 180 degree thermo. ran for about a 1/2 hour and the bottom was still cold and the top hot. is the bottom the sender? and the top is the sender.

joecivic93

Did you put the thermostat in upside down,the spring side should go in first then you should still be able to see the top part which comes to a point and you put the housing on over it.Did you put any sealant around the housing to seal it,cause you might have gotten some in your system?

The method I use to fill and get the air bubbles out of the cooling system is to fill the radiator till it's almost full but not all the way to the top you'll spill it on the ground,start the car with the cap off,turn your heater control to on/hot this will get coolant to your heater core which is part of the cooling system and let it run for a good 10-15min. you should see bubbles surfacing to the top of the radiator.When the car is good and hot and no more bubbles put the cap on and let it run for about 5 more minutes.There is a bleeder screw that is located on the front of the head it will be a 12mm use a rag or paper towel and a 12mm wrench and crack the bleeder open enough to let some coolant run out but be careful it is HOT close the bleeder and repeat the process until you do not see anything but coolant flowing out.Don't forget to fill the resevoir to the full mark not to the top of the container recheck it after a day or so you may need to add a little more coolant to the radiator/resevoir.Good luck!

W.Zero

i had i similar problem about the hoses. my problem was my radiator but if there is a air bubble it will do the same thing. double check the installation of the thermoostat or just take it out for now to see if both hoses get to the same temp. also check your sensor on your head that trigers the temp gauge. when taking off the sensor on the thermostat you might of pulled off the temp sensor on the side of the head.

Mt3c

what a coincidence, i changed my thermostat today also and had the same "problem" as you

it took forever for the gauge to move, but it finally did.

since the lower hose is still closed, there is still air there and the heated coolant has not moved due to the thermostat still being closed.

the thermo will start to open at around 160, and will be fully open at 180, that s when you should start to see the gauge rise.

JDMlyfestyle

my car was running for about a half hour and the gauge didnt budge whats so ever. and the lower hose was cold and the top one was hot.
Im going to try to put my old one in since it did work it just stuck at times. so i guess i will see.
i did the air pocket thing to. what side of the head is the temp sensor and the bleeder valve?

JDMlyfestyle

ttt

Aceman64

I got to thinking about it and the sensor for the gauge isnt even on the thermostat housing. The gauge sensor is on the side of the head. Just has one wire going to it. Maybe you pulled it off by mistake when you were working.


-Ace


:edit: Just noticed someone above posted this same thing

slntciv

u sure u put the thermostat back in the right way

W.Zero

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMlifestyle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my car was running for about a half hour and the gauge didnt budge whats so ever. and the lower hose was cold and the top one was hot.
Im going to try to put my old one in since it did work it just stuck at times. so i guess i will see.
i did the air pocket thing to. what side of the head is the temp sensor and the bleeder valve?</TD></TR></TABLE>look to the right of the upper radiator hose housing. its the only one wire to the head. the bleeder is to the left of the upper housing. but the bleeder is only on certain years. if you dont have a bleeder just open your radiator cap with car running and heater on.