lsvtec79

Hi I recently bought an 1990 ls motor and I want to build it up for lsvtec and turbo it just wondering what direction should I go and what parts would I need for lsvtec build.

JDM_CivicEG6

alright i have ur answer right here...

You can use any of the following VTEC heads...the cheapest being the B16A
which is the most commonly used...the Type R heads are also good heads to start with but are more expensive and a little harder to find...the GSR heads usually don't flow as well as B16A or Type R heads...the choice is yours...

B16A JDM 1989-1991 Civic SiR/SiRII/CRX SiR
B16A JDM 1990-1993 Integra Rsi/Xsi
B16A JDM 1992-1995 Civic SiR/SiRII
B16A JDM 1992-1995 Ferio Si/SiII/SiR/RTSi 4WD
B16A JDM 1992-1997 CRX del Sol SiR
B16A JDM 1996-2000 Civic SiR/SiRII
B16B JDM 1998-2000 Civic Type-R
B18C JDM 1994-1995 Integra Si-VTEC
B18C JDM 1996-1997 Integra SiR-G
B18C JDM 1996-2000 Integra Type R
B16A3 USDM 1994-1997 del Sol DOHC VTEC
B16A2 USDM 1999-2000 Civic Si
B17A1 USDM 1992-1993 Integra GS-R
B18C1 USDM 1994-2001 Integra GS-R
B18C5 USDM 1997-2001 Integra Type R (exclude 1999)

LS/VTEC

I note...
...the accuracy of performing the modifications in the following steps is vital to the outcome of the swap. (do it right=reliable : Half ***=broke engine later)

If you are not entirely certain of the process or have the experience in using the required tools, please contact a machine shop to have to work done.

You will need these parts...

OEM LS head gasket
B18C head bolts (i recommend ARP bolts..Cheap insurance)
B18C water pump
B18C Timing Belt
Chipped P75 ECU (96-00 Integra LS/GS
Chipped P28 ECU (92-95 Civic Si/EX)
PCT ECU (JDM ITR/CTR)
Golden Eagle VTEC conversion Kit

...can use this set up if not buying the Golden Eagle kit.
18" -4AN steel braided hose
2 x -4AN fittings
1/8"NPT to 1/8" BSP Tee fitting
1/8"NPT to -4AN adapter fitting
-4AN to 3/8NPT fitting
1/8"NPT plug

Note: This explanation is if you don't use the Golden Eagle VTEC conversion kit...although the installation is very similar the Golden Eagle Kit is already put together

1. There is a oil supply hole on the surface of the VTEC head that needs to be pluged since the Non-VTEC block is not made to support this hole. You may opt to have machine shop perform the task or if you are familiar with using a tap, you can do it yourself. Tap the hole with a 1/8NPT tap and plug the hole using a 1/8NPT plug. Be sure to use lock tite(Honda Bond) prior to screwing it in. If you damage the head, it will need to be resurfaced. TAKE YOUR TIME.

2. There is also a plug on the intake side of the head, on the distibutor side that needs to be replaced by a 3/8NPT to -4AN fitting. You will run your Stainless Steel oil line from this location. Be sure to use Teflon tape(Honda Bond) on the threads.

3. You will need to relocate the Dowel pins as well. On the intake side of the head, there are two locations on the extreme left and extreme right that are good for putting the dowel pins.(bottom left corner/bottom right corner) All that is required is that you resize the holes to fit the dowel pins. The LS head gasket already has the correctly sized holes; therefore there is no need to modify the head gasket.

4. You will need to find a space for a Knock Sensor, there should a blank space on the back of your block to locate the sensor. Using a 10.9 mm drill bit, opened up the hole on the bracket and the block. Then carefully tap the hole with a 12 mm x 1.25 thread pitch tap. Be sure to clean up the shavings and then screw the knock sensor. This will keep your ECU from throwing any codes. Therefore not Activating VTEC...

On your particular engine you can chose to remove one of the mounting bolts for the alternator bracket and use this as the new location for the Knock sensor. Once using the same Drill and Tap method as above...

5. Once the modifications to the head are complete, you can go ahead and assemble the head and block. Be sure you have the head gasket installed in the correct direction and RIGHT SIDE UP.

You will have to use VTEC head bolts LS bolts are to short (Use B18C bolts)
Here are a few pictures of the completed LS/VTEC swap. Your last step is to run the new oil lines to feed the VTEC head.

Now you have two choices as far as water pump/timing belt

If you use a B18A (LS) water pump...then use a B18A (LS) timing belt
If you use a B18C (GSR/Type R) water pump...then use a B18C (GSR/Type R) timing belt

Note: DONT USE A B16A TIMING BELT...IT WON'T WORK, THE B16A ENGINE IS PHYSICALLY 8MM SHORTET THE THE 1.8LITER ENGINES..TRUST ME

Here is how to set up your Stainless Steel oil line...(I highly recommend buying the Golden eagle VTEC conversion Kit...makes things 100 times easier...)

1. First, you will need a section of braided stainless line. In order to cut the SS line without it fraying or splintering, wrap the area where you want to cut with tape tightly. Place the SS line in a vise or something similar to ease the cutting process. Use a hacksaw or band saw to cut it.

2. Now place the red housing of the AN fitting snugly over the SS line. To aid the next step, be sure to lubricate the inside of the SS line. Place the silver insert of the AN fitting inside the red housing. It may be easier to place the red housing in a vise. Cram SS line into the red housing and screw them together with a wrench. Repeat the process until you have two lines with the fittings securely attached on each end.
Run one of your SS lines from the block to the one hole in your Tee mounted on the firewall. Run the other SS line from your second hole to the -4an to 3/8NPT fitting on the head pictured here. The third hole on the Tee will be plugged with you stock oil sending unit. Be sure to use Teflon tape to seal the threads.

3. Securely fasten the entire unit to the firewall. Make sure you do not tighten the SS fittings on the head until your fuel rail is installed. (*Note - if you are using an additional oil sending unit for gauges, then you will need a 4-way Tee as in the one pictured)

Good luck!