need help with d16z6
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need help with d16z6
i have a d16z6 in my eg coupe. like a month ago or so its started to go in and out of 3 cylinders. it was mostly in three cylinders tho. then went only to 3 cylinders. it also wont keep an idle unless i purposely make a vacuum leak. i tried taking it to a shop cuz i didnt have time to fix it but everywhere i took it they said they wouldnt work on it cuz i had a wire tuck(i hate wire tucks) that the previous owner did on it. its cylinder # 2 that goes down. its throwing code 16(injector) and code 41(heated o2 sensor).
anyways i brought it home after the last shop i brought it to and i started throwing code 21(vtec pressure switch) and i realized the wire wasnt hooked up so i had to rewire it and for some reason it made my car run on all 4 cylinders.
so i did a compression test they were alittle low like around 165 across the board.
then test for fuel it was getting fuel but couldnt get the car to go into 3 cylinders when doing this test. then tested the fuel pressure and it was all within specs. then tested for spark and was getting spark.
I tried changing alot of things. i changed the injectors cuz it started throwing code 16 which is injectors. that did nothing.
then i figured out that if i tapped the brake then revved the motor when it was in 3 cylinders it would go back to 4 cylinders so i changed the booster cuz ive heard if the booster is bad enough it can make your car run like ****. that did nothing.
i tried cleaning my iacv and that made the idle alittle more consistent but didnt do anything else.
i also put in a new o2 sensor and the code didnt go away.
then i did a complete tune up. new wires, new plugs, new distributor cap and rotor, and changed then oil. that did nothing.
so i yesterday i took off my intake mani so i could check all the injector wires to make sure they were all good. well i found on cylinder #2 injector clip one of the wires(i think the ground wire; the yellow and green i believe not the red one) was just shoved threw the insulation on the clip so i figured that was it. so i got another clip and soldered it together. it sounded perfect when i first started so i got excited. but then i took it around the block and it went back into 3 cylinders. but if it goes up into higher rpms it sounds good. idk if its actually on all 4 or if just because its in higher rpms it sounds better.
so heres the thing im completely stumped on this on. if anyone has any ideas on what i could do to fix this or would be willing to come by and help me figure this out im on the west side of town of Phoenix Arizona just let me know im willing to pay alittle if i have too but low on funds.
anyways i brought it home after the last shop i brought it to and i started throwing code 21(vtec pressure switch) and i realized the wire wasnt hooked up so i had to rewire it and for some reason it made my car run on all 4 cylinders.
so i did a compression test they were alittle low like around 165 across the board.
then test for fuel it was getting fuel but couldnt get the car to go into 3 cylinders when doing this test. then tested the fuel pressure and it was all within specs. then tested for spark and was getting spark.
I tried changing alot of things. i changed the injectors cuz it started throwing code 16 which is injectors. that did nothing.
then i figured out that if i tapped the brake then revved the motor when it was in 3 cylinders it would go back to 4 cylinders so i changed the booster cuz ive heard if the booster is bad enough it can make your car run like ****. that did nothing.
i tried cleaning my iacv and that made the idle alittle more consistent but didnt do anything else.
i also put in a new o2 sensor and the code didnt go away.
then i did a complete tune up. new wires, new plugs, new distributor cap and rotor, and changed then oil. that did nothing.
so i yesterday i took off my intake mani so i could check all the injector wires to make sure they were all good. well i found on cylinder #2 injector clip one of the wires(i think the ground wire; the yellow and green i believe not the red one) was just shoved threw the insulation on the clip so i figured that was it. so i got another clip and soldered it together. it sounded perfect when i first started so i got excited. but then i took it around the block and it went back into 3 cylinders. but if it goes up into higher rpms it sounds good. idk if its actually on all 4 or if just because its in higher rpms it sounds better.
so heres the thing im completely stumped on this on. if anyone has any ideas on what i could do to fix this or would be willing to come by and help me figure this out im on the west side of town of Phoenix Arizona just let me know im willing to pay alittle if i have too but low on funds.
#2
Re: need help with d16z6
Do you still have code 16?
Harbor Freight Tools sells a basic engine stethoscope for $3-$4. Buy one so that you can listen for fuel injectors that are not clicking when you think the engine is running on three cylinders. For injectors that don't click, check whether you measure 12V on the Blk/Yel wire when the key is turned to ON(II). Also check that the ground wire running between the injector and ECU has continuity but not a short.
Harbor Freight Tools sells a basic engine stethoscope for $3-$4. Buy one so that you can listen for fuel injectors that are not clicking when you think the engine is running on three cylinders. For injectors that don't click, check whether you measure 12V on the Blk/Yel wire when the key is turned to ON(II). Also check that the ground wire running between the injector and ECU has continuity but not a short.
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Re: need help with d16z6
yea its still throwing both 16 and 41 but im pretty sure that the 41 is just cuz my motor isnt running right
and i never thought of listening to it thank ill try it out and post back
and i never thought of listening to it thank ill try it out and post back
#4
Re: need help with d16z6
Code 41 indicates a problem with the circuit for the heating element in the O2 sensor. This problem is usually but not always fixed by replacing the O2 sensor.
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Re: need help with d16z6
i was told i should just wait on getting the motor to run good before i worry about that cuz that might be why its throw code 41
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Re: need help with d16z6
so i checked all my fuses yesterday and the one that is for pgm-fi was blown so i replaced it and it still wasnt getting any power on my test light
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Re: need help with d16z6
screw buying a stethoscope....use a long *** screwdriver and listen....it's free. i would start looking into the ecu....something could have happened when the wire tuck was done. you never know.
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Re: need help with d16z6
just use a screwdriver to listen it's free....and i would start checking into the ecu....something could have happened when the wire tuck was done.
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Re: need help with d16z6
so today i checked all the injector for power and ground. they were all getting power but the number 2 injector clip wasnt getting grounded.
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Re: need help with d16z6
instead of tracing the wire all the way down to find the short would i be able to just depin the clip and repin another wire in it straight to the ecu or would that be bad.
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Re: need help with d16z6
what pin out on the ecu is for injector number 2. cuz all i see is 2 injector grounds going into the ecu. or does it only have 2 and it runs 2 of the injectors?
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Re: need help with d16z6
i was mistaken it wasnt getting power. but now i got it power by just running it to another injector clip. without knowing its ran like that youll never know by looking. thanks for your help
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