tek_civic

so my car is sitting in the garage with a wheel off almost done changing the pads when i ran into this possiable problem. i got the outside pad on fine and was putting the inside pad on when i noticed it was really hard to push into place. i can get it into place so its flush with the rotor but it is soo stiff that im not sure wether it will be able to rebound after the brakes are pressed. its so tightly in there that i can barely pull it out to examine it. is this normal or should i grind the top of the pad down bracket thing so it will slide in better. the inside pad i took out went in and out really easily. tnx

EVIL Hx Coupe

The is a piston type thing in the caliper... You have to push that in when you replace the pads... It takes some effort but it's easly done....

=GAME=

C-clamp makes it easy

tek_civic

wow, did you even read my post or are you just a dumbas trying to up his post count? i have no problem with the caliper thats why i never mentioned it. the problem was with the inside pad sliding into position against the rotor, its a really tight fit and i was asking if that was ok, thanks for reading though.

hybridreams

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tek_civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow, did you even read my post or are you just a dumbas trying to up his post count?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wow, that's fucked up. How about you go **** yourself, I hope nobody answers your question.

LSpimpTEC

from what it sounds like you need check for the incorrect pads. if they dont fit take them back cuz if you grind them too much then your screwed out of pad and money. you need to be more clear about your prob. cuz it sounds like a caliper prob. People Skills Playa

yaya

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybridreams &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Wow, that's fucked up. How about you go **** yourself, I hope nobody answers your question.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah! dork who cant even change some brake pads

EVIL Hx Coupe

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tek_civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow, did you even read my post or are you just a dumbas trying to up his post count? i have no problem with the caliper thats why i never mentioned it. the problem was with the inside pad sliding into position against the rotor, its a really tight fit and i was asking if that was ok, thanks for reading though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You cant even change your brakepads which I can do in 5 mins and you're calling me a dumb ***???

I was just trying to help and if what I suggested didnt work, you should have just waited for someone else to suggest something else....

BTW I read every post before I reply, why would I need to get my post count up??? Reading is actually what you gain knowledge of, not posting....

Next time be a little nicer and you might get some more help.

tek_civic

ya, i was pretty mean there, pretty pissed off at the fact that napa might have sold me the wrong pads AGAIN. but i figured it out. i am fully capable of changing my pads, i have changed many pads before but this is the first time the pad didn't want to get seated into its little clips. i had no problem with the caliper i was just asking about the fitment of the pad. oh and im told that using the c-clamp method could actually harm your braking system, instead you should crack the bleeder valve as you would when bleeding the brakes and use a prybar to put the piston back into the caliper when its still attached to the rotor, then take it off and press it the rest of the way by hand. that way makes it a lot easier, and apparently safer.

sorry for being an ***

b18cef

I have always used a C-Clamp and it works fine for me. I guess that is the way someone else has done it and they are a firm beleiver in the way they do it.

EDIT: I do take the resevior cap of when I am pushing the caliper back in.

Shawn C

iTrader: (1)

using a c-clamp will, in no way, harm the braking system, as long as you do it slowly. the proper tool for pushing in the piston very much resembles a c-clamp. also, are you referring to changing the front or rear pads? because if you use a c-clamp on the rear pads (assuming you have 4-wheel disc brakes, you might not), then you screw the piston back in (they make a litthe funny-looking cube for this, but you can use a very large flathead screwdriver) and you will really mess something up there.
also- b18cef- does your sig mean you have halitosis? just wondering.
another note- just get the damn pads from honda, they aren't much more expensive than napa, and are made by akebono or nissin. nice stuff, mang
-Shawn

redwinqs

so on my 94 civic si hb i will have the screw the rear calipler back in place using a large flat head screw driver...instead of using the c-clamp method? im glad i read this tonight...

4-banging

You can buy that "box looking thing" (I have a way with words ) from Autozone. makes it a whole lot easier. fits on your socket wrench, alls you have to do is find the right pattern on the box

b18cef

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also- b18cef- does your sig mean you have halitosis? just wondering.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Nope it does not.

Just a good quote that I have recently heard.

(No breath meaning dead y0!)