EM1Hero

Vehicle- 2000 civic si

Problem- no power to starter, have fuel pump, dash lights and accessories

Brief summary- the problem started after I did a mild wire tuck and fuse box/ battery relocation. The only wires that were cut were the two power wires for the fuse box and I simply extended the positive wire to the battery about a foot or so. After all was said and done i went to start it and there's no power to the starter, as if the clutch wasn't pressed. I'm thinking somehow something happened to the clutch interlock switch. anyone have any tips or can point me in the right direction? Should I jump it? I'm reluctant to mess with any more wiring at this point because this car is my dd and I need it tommorrow morning. Thanks

black97civic

No power to the starter motor or no power to the starter coil when the key is turned?

black97civic

And did you check with a meter or a test light?

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Check grounds?
But seriously, I don't understand why people engage in risky modifications on cars that are crucial to them getting from point to point.

EM1Hero

Checking or power now, will be back soon. @ grumblemarc- it was a honest simple weekend project to keep myself occupied, hindsight is a bitch isn't it?

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Not really. My nature demands that I plan for such things.

I also suggested you check the grounds. Did you miss that part?

EM1Hero

Alright I used a test light and have no power to both starter and solenoid. The only grounds I removed were the two on each side near the headlights and the battery ground. All are secure. Any ideas?

black97civic

Post pics of what you did if you can.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Not that they are secure, but that the connections are solid and free of rust and debris.
Also, did you try apply power directly to the starter?

EM1Hero

Ill take some 180 to ground surfaces to be sure. I haven't tried putting power directly to it yet. Ill post pics of what I did in a few.

black97civic

Well the wire on the starter comes from the battery so that would be the first thing to fix. Do you not have it hooked to the battery? What did you use for a ground on your test light?

EM1Hero

I used the motor mount to ground the test light. I don't understand all I did was simply extend the positive wire and the wire to the fuse box so I could mount my battery under the dash. Battery ground is bolted to the chassis where the ecu used to be.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Try another grounding point? I have an amp that's picky about where it's ground, no matter how clean the spot.

black97civic

Try Hooking your test light to the battery.

EM1Hero

Battery voltage reads 12.52 so that's all good. I can't help but think something's up with the interlock switch. I stuck a paper clip in the 2p connector and tried that and still nothing.

EM1Hero

[URL=http://s898.photobucket.com/user/iheartjdmhoes/media/image_zps9e65af38.jpg.html]

black97civic

Check with your meter for voltage on the ends of the wires you extended. With the negative lead on the battery

EM1Hero

EM1Hero

I'm reading 12.10 volts on both sides from the extended portion to the oem cable

black97civic

Your reading 12.10 from the battery to the end of the oem cable and your reading 12.5 at the battery? 12.10 is almost dead. You need to see around 12.7

EM1Hero

Ok went back and tested for power to starter and it indeed does have power. Really leaning towards the clutch switch at this point does anyone agree

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Well check to see if the rubber stopper fell off of the pedal assembly.

black97civic

If it worked before you did this and you didn't mess with the switch then odds are its not that. Sounds like your battery is dead.

EM1Hero

Could you elaborate this doesn't make sense to me I thought that was perfectly fine. The battery is new as well.

EM1Hero

Through research I did find that could be a possible culprit but it is there and intact