B_Swapped93

Mini pre-weekend update: Was so disgusted with the botched FMIC cut out on the bumper, I've decided to just run no bumper, with that the hood may have to stay off, i'll see. Don't feel safe driving the car with a hood but no bumper due to the wind lifting up. I'll keep them for any highways runs that happen later down the road once it's tuned/dialed in.



Didn't save much weight here, and cutting overhead without a hat/googles is not fun, may as well have left them. I'd rather chop from the inside of the rocker panels, the biggest down downside to all this cutting is the massive amounts of dust/shavings it leaves. The one area I will be cutting is around the fuel pump-access hole, I have no plans to use the cover and it will make "service" 10x easier.



Filling here up with coolant, will drain it all soon as I probably got some dirt/oil in those -AN lines when I assembled them. So far no leaks, but that may change when I turn the water pump on, no complaints about the filler neck either, it's a nice functional piece. Would recommend even if you have a regular rad.




Aside from a seat/harness, YES this is how i'll be running it from the races, pretty sure it'll be terrifying with those 94A mounts. Depending on how much more the turbo set-up costs I may be able to put my fixed bucket in BEFORE it gets tuned, I have no idea what seat I want, but I want to use the PCI rails/sliders as they have provisions for 5/6pt harnesses, which is what i'll be running. Seat also came out for the last bit of cutting I need to do, and for when the clutch stop is being made for the twin disk. Hopefully some of my goodies come in for Friday, no word of my Sheepey order even being shipped it's been 4 weeks. My card did get charged so i'm sure i'll get them it's just taking longer than i'd like.

B_Swapped93

Did some more finishing touches to get it ready for start up, my hood exit pipes/manifold were supposed to be here on the 5th but I don't think they've even started making them, maybe they'll be here next week. No doubts as to weather or not i'll get them, waiting on that damn 60mm tial gate too, but I'm getting a bit irritated. In regards to the water/bpc in the cyls, I ran some oil through the engine and just let it drain right through. There wasn't any metal that my drain plug picked up but there was some nasty water in the pan. Not too worried yet, we'll have to wait till the car cranks to see how it is. Looking to pick up a plain gauge cluster this weekend and make the run to JDM addiction to get my fittings and what ever else came in.



With my discount it only makes sense to buy OEM Honda filters, but these were on sale for 50% off, i'll probably just do a oil change again after a few pulls down the rd.




Made this quick tie down anchor with some eye bolts, last time I just drilled into the thin trunk metal and the battery ripped the hooks out, OEM Honda battery for the time being, but i'm hoping for one under 7lbs. I have a thread in the drag racing section that hopefully will provide some good answers.



This will do for the shakedown runs to make sure everything is working well, and then to get the car tuned once the IC piping is made. Had to use some nuts as spacers as the threaded section only goes down so far, I will be using the ktuned battery tie-down later down the road once I get a battery picked out.



The moroso pan comes with 2 1/2 NPT ports for the turbo drain and what ever you want to use the 2nd one for. I took them off and put some blue loc-tite on just o be safe. Going to do the same for the rad, as it just has 2 12mm bolts holding it and I chopped the lower rad support. Again I had to use a "B" series rad to get the ports on the same side for my electric water pump. That's why it upside down.

JDMarv

sheepey parts come in ? D:

B_Swapped93

Sadly no, my v60 waste-gate did so i'll be going to get that and a bunch of other misc stuff tomorrow. The Sheepey parts I ordered myself a month ago, I'm pretty pissed lol, but they probably put it on the bottom of the work order as i'm just some kid in Canada vs a shop/big race team. I'm really hoping for late next week but I don't think they've even started making them yet so, more like 7 weeks wait total.

B_Swapped93

First 2-day weekend in ages, did a whole bunch of little things Friday night posting this Sunday so maybe if i'm lucky and calculated all my fittings correct i'll try turning it over and see what happens.



Stripped tans drain bolt, no surprise the trans is beat to ****, the top bolt that goes to my mount is broken off and one of the lower ones stripped. So if/when I start shearing teeth of it, I won't feel too sorry, i'm going to assume it grinds like **** too. When it dies i'll be considering the EP3 or tsx 6spd one.



Nothing fancy here, almost wish I had just dumped regular oil in it's in such bad shape.





No way I was going to be able to easily fill it via the official fill hole, I always filled my tans via the VSS on the B's. Once again the trans et me down, and there was no way I was getting the VSS out here. Removing the selector is sort of a pain, but with the race-spec cables it helps a ton.



Saturday morning: went to Toronto:JDM and tried to get a EG cluster, they said they haven't had one in ages. I'll have a quick look locally and if not, I guess i'll take a look on ebay. But the prices ppl ask are a joke, then ad shipping and import to Canada. I'm more tempted to buy a Race-pak digital dash instead, but that's another grand and a half. Got all my stuff from JDM-Addiction tho which was good.







Fittings and misc, plus a HUGE Tial v60 waste-gate. If i'd gotten my up pipes and manifold I could've mount all my goodies, but like I was saying probably another 2-3 weeks, maybe not but i'm not overly happy with Sheepey.


K-tuned throttle cable, kind of a must when you're using that manifold, enough slack to go under the turbo too which is good. There's no real benefits to it if you're using a RBC etc, they make one for center-feed/ITB guys too which is nice.





Not going to show much of this moded hanger, it didn't turn out well, and was very frustrating. I'd 100% just recommend sumping the OEM tank that way you can keep your gas gauge, I may end up have too, i'll see if it works. If not i'll sell the walbro and figure out the next step, but it's not game over yet.

B_Swapped93

Got the fuel system all plumbed up, and the wiring all done. Ended up working but it was a VERY tight fit getting both those 8AWG wires to fit as the feed has 2 washers I had to trim and the return took up a lot of room. Overall I think it'll be ok, I cut out the cover so I could work on the fittings easier and see what was going on, smeared some "Goop" all around the bulkheads and the wires just to be safe. Weather I stick to pump gas or Ignite yellow, pump 91 will be used for the time being until the turbo set up is ready.




8AWG upgrade, chopped the plug off and twisted then put lots of tape over them.



I may pick up one of those little car-mountable fire extinguishers, this should keep any vapours in tank and out of the cabin, yes it doesn't look nice but i'd rather not take chances.



Attachment 435635
Secured with zip ties with I still have a conventional header, once the turbo is on with the up-pipes I don't have to worry as much.



Attachment 435636

Couldn't route them the OEM way like I was hoping so they'll share the same area as the mount/ where the o2 wire runs on a N/A set up.



K-tuned -8AN inline fuel filter, easy to change out if need be.




Finished product, i'm pretty happy with how it looks. The fittings are getting easier and easier to make, I used to dread making them.

Blue-Civic-Hybrid

iTrader: (1)

You are always making progress, thanks for updating your thread constantly. Maybe I'll get off my fat *** and start on my project!

B_Swapped93

Thanks man! I appreciate it.







So, car cranks, has compression and presumably spark. Have to ditch the relay set up and just use a simple on/off for the fuel pump, i'll lose the "auto prime" but way I see it, i'll just flick the switch for a fraction of a second. Tested it by jumping the power wires, I have a bad(?) A/N fitting or 2 it leaks from the M2F surface. It won't seal with just a straight end, so I think I need to ad an o-ring on the 2nd end to create a ORB-ORB fitting, which naturally doesn't exist. Kinda pissed and confused as NON of my other fittings leak, and I've made probably 15+ now, just this one and sort of the 2nd. So i'll keep messing with those fittings and see what happens, I have 1 spare -8an but if I need another, i'll need to treck to the city. It's leaking from the red arrow, I don't know why this one chose to leak it's the one at the end of the filter, I skipped the filter an just used the -8orb to -8an still leaked. The best configuration was the orb ends in the fittings and the straight end into the filter but that makes no sense. Don't know of my gauge is broken, as it says not 1psi of fuel is even making it to the rail.


Update: searched and searched and reviewed images, the person who put the o-ring on at k-tuned put it on the wrong side! leaving me to think I was putting the 37* taper in the filter with no o-ring and the stubby flat end in the fitting where it couldn't even reach the taper let alone seal. That could be the issue with the other one too, hope I didn't damage the fittings by doing that, the filter will be fine but I may need 1 new straight -8 AN. I'll take that section apart and inspect/clean it tomorrow and post up the results.... I should have looked, but I didn't think they'd make a mistake like that.

JDMarv

idk if you tried, but i'd email alex/sheepey, hes pretty good with getting back to people.

ssmrico

damn nice updates

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

Damn talk about getting a car LOL. That thing is nipped and tucked to the extreme.

B_Swapped93

I'll wait till late this week and if they haven't sent a tracking number i'll email them.

Thanks man


Yah, always wanted to gut one to this degree. it's made actual interior work 10x easier especially the auto to manual portion, feels scary AF to sit in tho haha.

B_Swapped93

Sooo things have taken a HUGE turn for the worse, I have maybe 50 psi in my cylinders, timing is spot on too. I'm completely lost.... I hand tested it myself in the 2 very same cyls that now have 50psi with the exact same tester. All I did was remove the head to do the springs and retainers.


Attachment 435613
All ripped apart ready to be pulled, beyond pissed.

JDMarv

:/

DumpdEJ6

Damn man, that sucks. I know exactly what you are feeling though, I've had things go way south for no explainable (at least at the time) reason. What was the compression in the other two cylinders? Still good? Were the two cylinders with low compression next to each other? Did you do a wet test as well?

B_Swapped93

Unknown, I was pissed and just pulled the head to inspect the walls, which were fine. The thing is, it just "sat" since tested and after the springs and retainers. How it went to **** is just so beyond me, for no real reason. Head is going back on tonight, and i'll be RE-doing the 1-4 dry test, then a wet in all 4 cyls.

B_Swapped93

So, i'm sorry I haven't posted in a while, been beyond busy with work. Me and a good friend set the timing 100% and did some testing, came to a very disappointing result. It's the piston rings 100% no 2 ways about it. We tested 60-64psi in all 4 cyls, then added oil and watched them shoot up to 110/115/185/185. I did let water and BPC get into the cyls and sit for far too long as there was a nasty bit of rust on the cylinder walls. One theory is I completely stripped the oil coating that is usually on there when the engine is being used normally thus giving the super-low readings. Friend said try putting it back in and see, but seeing as it's just me doing all the work, i'm not enthused about doing all that wok only to have it not start again and then have to pull it all over. i'm not giving up but I need to think about what I do next. My hood exit pipes shipped on Friday, so I guess i'm excited about that not really tho. When I have a better idea of what my options are i'll update. Also ordered a Sheepey built 1000HP vertical flow cooler with Vanjen clamp ends, that'll be a while but should be pretty sick once it gets here.




Stripped all my goodies off the engine and trans, so far my options are: built piston x rod set up i'd choose some CPs(11.5:1) with Turbo Tuff rods. Next choice is kinda the same just go find another k20a2 or k24/20 frank set up.



Closer: I'll be cleaning up the engine bay and doing some other changes before I decide, one of the biggest changes is getting the stock tank sumped and running an inline pump. Depending on my research I may end up with a big Weldon d2015-1 unit or dual o44's. Why? I don't trust my life with the sketchy set up i'm running with the cut end directly in the tank. So i'll still be doing updates and such but it may be a while before an engine is in the car again.

tony_2018

Damn....

Blue-Civic-Hybrid

iTrader: (1)

Sorry to hear about your luck... just take it slow and make forward progress when you can. That's why it's a called a "project", nothing ever goes right.

B_Swapped93

Yah, it's a real pain to have to undo/redo all the work, but I'm doing some things I wasn't able to do in negative degree weather when I started. And it's going to be easier to do the turbo feed/return lines. I'll be changing other small things too.






Took a trip downtown Toronto to pick up an EG Si cluster, as the auto one that came with the car had no tach which was a real pain. That plus I'm not quite ready to step up to the Racpak IQ3 dash.



it's just ziptied around the mount tabs to the structural column, have to ad the dimmer as with out it will just be unlit when the lights come on, other than that we're set for start up v2. I'll switch out the wheel for a QR or fixed hub sooner or later just have to pick out a steering wheel.




Figured while the engine is out I may as well clean the bay up around the sub frame and rack, got some aluminum paint too for the engine several ppl have said the rings just needed some oil to expand again after the rust and sitting. So i'l take the chance and try one more start up with this engine.



Rear mount removed for polishing, one thing I may very well change is those damn 94A inserts, not because i'm scared of vibrations to me. But even tho I've loc-tited all the key bolts on here it still scares me the though of bolts coming loose. Pretty happy with how the bay turned out, this isn't supposed to be a nice looking car but I don't need it to look like complete **** either.



Getting ready mask and then spay the engine, it was so gross and caked with grime when I got it, this should be a refreshing look.

ssmrico

hopefully that does it with the rings

JDMarv

damn

tony_2018

Makes sense, well kinda. I guess previous owner didn't spray wd40 down the cylinders.

B_Swapped93

Yah, me too I'm really not in the mood to pull it a 3rd time, just waiting on the crank pulser gear(timing gear), found one on ebay as it was back ordered till the end of June from Honda and I wasn't about to wait that long just to put the engine in. Thankfully the one I bought comes from Toronto so it should be here late this week, early next. Looking forward to putting the engine back in. Engine turned out good enough for me, this isn't a nice looking car just a mean, ratchet street car. Besides, most of the engine will be covered up once the turbo manifold and all the other goodies are here. Only real area that will show is the side of the head and the area around the shift selector.



Virtually no prep or anything like that but i'm happy with it. Looks way better than the nasty salt and sand covered previous look. Valve cover will need to be painted a new colour as the bright aluminum paint looks strange with the white. That plus it got pretty beat up and i'd like to weld two -10 AN bungs on it.



Got a start to putting all my goodies back on, nothing engine wise is set to change. Some parts will be reviving a heavier polish and such mainly the mounts.

ssmrico

Nice difference