my swap, what am i looking for?
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my swap, what am i looking for?
Ok guys, go easy on me, i'm still learning about Hondas.
So, I just recently purchased my EG hatch from some dude down the street, now i'm ready to buy the swap. I was talking to one of my buddys about it, he pretty much said to me that he can get me one for a good deal.
He later got back to me saying that he can get me a 97 jdm itr motor with about 60k miles on it for $3900 otd. From doing some research online it seems that it's a good deal, else help me out a bit here.
Is there anything that I need to look out for? I know I need to look out for the sensors not being broken, and make sure that everything is included for the full swap right? what about papers? any of that on a jdm motor?
So, I just recently purchased my EG hatch from some dude down the street, now i'm ready to buy the swap. I was talking to one of my buddys about it, he pretty much said to me that he can get me one for a good deal.
He later got back to me saying that he can get me a 97 jdm itr motor with about 60k miles on it for $3900 otd. From doing some research online it seems that it's a good deal, else help me out a bit here.
Is there anything that I need to look out for? I know I need to look out for the sensors not being broken, and make sure that everything is included for the full swap right? what about papers? any of that on a jdm motor?
#2
Re: my swap, what am i looking for? (D G A F)
make sure its not stolen, where is he getting it from? Theres JDM ITR and USDM ITR motors, and neither one of them should be that cheap
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Re: my swap, what am i looking for? (TurboCoop)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboCoop »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">make sure its not stolen, where is he getting it from? Theres JDM ITR and USDM ITR motors, and neither one of them should be that cheap</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea, that's what I really don't want. That's why i'm asking if there should be some kind of paperwork? or VIN on it? Also, shouldn't the price be lower because it has 60k miles on it??
Looking at hmotors online, motors are at about 17k miles, this one is at 56k, should that be the reason why he is selling it cheaper?
http://www.hmotorsonline.com/s...30010
Modified by D G A F at 11:52 AM 1/9/2006
Yea, that's what I really don't want. That's why i'm asking if there should be some kind of paperwork? or VIN on it? Also, shouldn't the price be lower because it has 60k miles on it??
Looking at hmotors online, motors are at about 17k miles, this one is at 56k, should that be the reason why he is selling it cheaper?
http://www.hmotorsonline.com/s...30010
Modified by D G A F at 11:52 AM 1/9/2006
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Re: my swap, what am i looking for? (D G A F)
on the motor, look under the motor, by the oil pan above the nut, there is a VIN # for the motor to the car it was originally in... so check that... get all your axels, shift linkage, ecu, throttle cable, etc... even the correct hoses.. gl
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#9
Re: (D G A F)
just boost a B16 or an LSvtec..LSturbo..or build a GSR NA or Boost for that money man..seriously...much more cost effective..really your just paying for the "R" title..or sell your eg and get a 240 like me weeeeeee [begin flame]
#10
Re: (Siberian Husky)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Siberian Husky »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just boost a B16 or an LSvtec..LSturbo..or build a GSR NA or Boost for that money man..seriously...much more cost effective..really your just paying for the "R" title..or sell your eg and get a 240 like me weeeeeee [begin flame]</TD></TR></TABLE>
It would cost more than $3900 to buy and boost a B16 or even LS. Everything might look right on paper, but when you start to do it you spend a whole **** more, and things start to break.
GSR NA would probably not be as quick as the Type R. GSR = $3000ish. After you buy an exhaust, What's left? Money for a header and intake? Plus, the Type R Tranny is much nicer.
It would cost more than $3900 to buy and boost a B16 or even LS. Everything might look right on paper, but when you start to do it you spend a whole **** more, and things start to break.
GSR NA would probably not be as quick as the Type R. GSR = $3000ish. After you buy an exhaust, What's left? Money for a header and intake? Plus, the Type R Tranny is much nicer.
#11
Re: (Chong)
but 3900 for a complete change over is not legit...were talkin 5g's for a complete change over and thats a deal..legit as well..6000 total if he gets a shop to do it..but lets say he as buddies to do it for free..5 grand for a complete change over with mounts harness the whole bit..again..legit motor...with HIE that'll put him to 6 spending wisely..or 5500 with used parts...this is too enough to get a good NA gsr set up or a boosted B or LS..that was my point
#12
Re: (Siberian Husky)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Siberian Husky »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but 3900 for a complete change over is not legit...were talkin 5g's for a complete change over and thats a deal..legit as well..6000 total if he gets a shop to do it..but lets say he as buddies to do it for free..5 grand for a complete change over with mounts harness the whole bit..again..legit motor...with HIE that'll put him to 6 spending wisely..or 5500 with used parts...this is too enough to get a good NA gsr set up or a boosted B or LS..that was my point</TD></TR></TABLE>
It may very well be legit, I got my JDM GSR for $2700 Complete swap with an Si radiator and all, and it was legit. It might not be "Straight from japan" or whatever, but it can still be legit.
It may very well be legit, I got my JDM GSR for $2700 Complete swap with an Si radiator and all, and it was legit. It might not be "Straight from japan" or whatever, but it can still be legit.
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Re: (Chong)
its probobly stollen. u want to make sure u check out all the vins on it for all the parts. most honda motors have all the parts especially the block stamped with the vin. i personally would buy a b16a2 or b18c. much more cost eficient and not as likely to get stollen.
#14
Re: (94hatchvx)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94hatchvx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i personally would buy a b16a2 or b18c </TD></TR></TABLE>
The Type R is a B18C
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94hatchvx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not as likely to get stollen.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No one has to know what you have unless you go around popping your hood and showing off.
The Type R is a B18C
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94hatchvx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not as likely to get stollen.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No one has to know what you have unless you go around popping your hood and showing off.
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