Tippyman

I have been actively looking on HT for the past month or so, looking for a safe setup to run as a daily driver and a drag car. I've decided to run a EK hatchback, with a B18C1 engine swap. The only problem I have been researching is where to go from there. As I stated earlier, this is going to be my daily driver, but I want good performance at the strip too. IMO, the cheapest and most reliable way to accomplish this is with a simple, I/H/E setup for daily driving with the addition of a Nitrous shot at the track. Above all, my first concern is safety. I need this car to last a long time and be easy to maintain. So, with that in mind please tell me what you think about my setup idea and what I could do to improve! Thanx!

Engine / Drive-Train Setup:

-B18C1 Complete Engine Swap
(With LSD Hydraulic Transmission)
-$3449.00 (http://www.hmotorsonline.com)

-AEM Hybrid Cold Air Intake
-$196.20 (http://www.prostreetonline.com)

-APEXi World Sport Catback Exhaust
-$415.20 (http://www.prostreetonline.com)

-JDM Integra Type R Factory Headers
-$269.00 (http://www.jspecautosports.com)

-ASA JS1 Rims w/ BFG Drag Radials (x 2) <--- For at track use only, hence only 2)
(Rims - 15x7, Tires - 225/50/15)
-$426.00 (http://www.thetirerack.com)

Total N/A Cost: $4755.00
----------------------------------------------------------------

Nitrous Setup:

-NOS Cheater System (Planning on using the lowest jet - 75 HP)
-$535.74 (http://www.prostreetonline.com)

-NGK Spark Plugs (x 4, NGK-5820)
-$9.56 (http://store.summitracing.com)

-Walbro Fuel Pump (255 Liters Per Hour - High Pressure)
-$191.20 (http://www.prostreetonline.com)

-MSD RPM Activated Window Switch (MSD-8969)
-$89.88 (http://store.summitracing.com)

Total F/I Setup: $827.00
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Total Overall Setup Cost: $5582.00

So, do you think that this will be a good, reliable performer? Anything I should be concerned about or watch out for? Thanx!

fwdtamiya

I would say for the intake, get a $30 ebay intake and a K&N filter or something. And for the header go for a Megan Racing header on ebay for about $150.

Tippyman

but do u think it'll be reliable? so long as i make sure i don't run lean u think she'll run a long time? i need this car for along time and don't wanna do **** to it that will kill its life too much.

G2 Speed

your plan is dumb IMHO

if you want a daily driver that will last a long time, keep it stock and maintain it

Civicse

daily driver and NOS don't go together

fwdtamiya

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman98 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but do u think it'll be reliable? so long as i make sure i don't run lean u think she'll run a long time? i need this car for along time and don't wanna do **** to it that will kill its life too much.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You'll be fine. That only thing i see that will kill the life of your engine is the nitrous if you usee it too much, not properly, etc.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Civicse &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">daily driver and NOS don't go together</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes they do. All you have to do is not touch the bottle.

litterbox

No tuning + nitrous =

ya rly.

Tippyman

i am using NGK plugs and getting a Walbro fuel pump. plus, I am getting the window switch so that nitrous won't cut on if i redline, causing me to go lean. so do u think i'll be be ok without any tuning? i am prolly gonna retard the timing 2 degrees. will this be enuf?

plus, i am only hittin it at da track ya'll, not like every time i take off from a stop-light. i prolly won't even have the bottle in da car until i go to da track.

Civicse

fuel pump and spark plugs won't cut it for tuning, ur gonna need some time on a dyno i would think,

Tippyman

i'm also retarding timing 2 deg's. this is even more than the NOS manual reccomends for just a 75 shot. u still think i need more than this?

Civicse

if you want to get the maximum performance out of it then the dyno is the best, setting it 2 degrees will work but just won't be getting the max performance from it, but bump for more opinions

Tippyman

safety & reliability &gt; max. performance

(to me anyway)

Civicse

shooting NOS into your engine isn't that reliable, could potentiallu b dangerous as well

kaoss_11

i would rather be fast with no name brand parts

si0385.

NOS + reliability =

zex is alot safer than the nos cheater system and zex also comes with 55, 65, and 75 shot kits so obviously the 55 shot would be safer on a stock motor, and with the 55 shot you dont need to retard the timing.

aem intakes are overpriced if u ask me (my opinion)

if u want a good performance i say go with a good exhaust, a cheap intake, a good set of cams with pulleys and get it tuned.

(i think edelbrock makes a turbo kit for civic with a b series that runs low boost and is a complete bolt on kit that comes with everything to get the car running including fmu, i know they make it for a d-series cuz i helped put one on my boys car and his car has been running great ever since.)

Civicse

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kaoss_11 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would rather be fast with no name brand parts</TD></TR></TABLE>

did u accidently post this in the wrong thread? what does that have to do with anything lol

Civicse

i think maybe you should do some more research

SuperSlow

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbodreamz0385 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">NOS + reliability = </TD></TR></TABLE>

Interesting arithmetic skills.....

I think he means NOS + reliability = maintenance and expensive.

Tippyman

lol, i plan on it

si0385.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SuperSlow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Interesting arithmetic skills.....

I think he means NOS + reliability = maintenance and expensive.</TD></TR></TABLE>

u get my drift

Tippyman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbodreamz0385 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
zex is alot safer than the nos cheater system and zex also comes with 55, 65, and 75 shot kits so obviously the 55 shot would be safer on a stock motor, and with the 55 shot you dont need to retard the timing.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i had originally planned on a zex wet kit actually. the zex kit is single injection though. which means a less even distribution of fuel and nitrous and a risk of running lean on mildly upgraded fuel systems. the cheater kit is specifically built for the b18c engine, and has a plate that shoots nitrous and fuel from seperate soldenoids directly into the intake manifold, not the intake. this way, fuel and nitrous are distributed more evenly over all cylinders.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbodreamz0385 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
aem intakes are overpriced if u ask me (my opinion)
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i am only going aem because they have a "hybid" intake that is specifically make for an EK hatch with a b18c1 swap. that way i can have a real cold air intake and not one modified to fit that is really only a ram intake.

Tippyman

But guys... if I do get the setup that I originally showed u, and retarded the timing 2 deg's, and got the plugs, window switch, and fuel pump, do u think it will be o.k. to run it w/out ill effects? keep in mind, its a track-only NOS setup. i am not running it constantly.

si0385.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman98 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i had originally planned on a zex wet kit actually. the zex kit is single injection though. which means a less even distribution of fuel and nitrous and a risk of running lean on mildly upgraded fuel systems. the cheater kit is specifically built for the b18c engine, and has a plate that shoots nitrous and fuel from seperate soldenoids directly into the intake manifold, not the intake. this way, fuel and nitrous are distributed more evenly over all cylinders.

i am only going aem because they have a "hybid" intake that is specifically make for an EK hatch with a b18c1 swap. that way i can have a real cold air intake and not one modified to fit that is really only a ram intake.</TD></TR></TABLE>

u might be right about the intake i know i seen a eg with a b16 that had the power chamber intake from password so idk about the whole ek with a b18, but ive heard very good things about the intake

and i put a zex wet kit in a 1989 240sx and i thought it ran pretty good concidering it had 130,xxx miles on it and it went thro 3 bottles before it finaly blew (had the sr20 already on the side)

si0385.

p.s.
that was with the 65 shot in

all im sayin is if u want reliability the best way to go is n/a

this is my last post for the night cuz of this stupid trial ****, but either way you go good luck with it

ThefirstPACT

Man a 50 or 75 shot with what you're gonna get will be fine. How many people here have actually ran a N02 Setup? I bet none..well maybe a few! I ran it on my b20 vtec no problems! Colder plugs and timing was retarded a degree on a 65 shot! No problem then i went for the boost with out the bottle! I also had it on a 2001 civic when they first came out! Bought the car then i spryed till it took a dump at 36,000 but it was my fault...I didnt do anything to keep it from blowing up!
Have fun...the plate kit is better than some ZEX kit!

You seem like you have search so for that!