Is my mechanic trying to sell me on something i dont need?
04-13-2004, 07:48 AM
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Is my mechanic trying to sell me on something i dont need?
Ok my CV Boots are blown. It is making the clicking when i turn left or right. my mechanic told me that he will do just the boots but my axels are screwed also. he has not looked at my car yet but he said due to the clicking the axels need to be replaced.
My mechanic is a friend of a friend and i do trust him. should i not?
My mechanic is a friend of a friend and i do trust him. should i not?
04-13-2004, 07:50 AM
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Re: Is my mechanic trying to sell me on something i dont need? (Mendes)
If there is any clicking noise they've been without grease too long. Replace them. Personally I just use Pepboys and their lifetime axles, then when i find a leak or click I just return it for a replacement.
04-13-2004, 07:53 AM
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Re: Is my mechanic trying to sell me on something i dont need? (splitime)
replace what? the axels or the boots? you mean the axels right?
i dont think there is a pep boys in toronto though. (going to check now)
i dont think there is a pep boys in toronto though. (going to check now)
04-13-2004, 07:59 AM
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Re: Is my mechanic trying to sell me on something i dont need? (Mendes)
replace both axles. he's not trying to scam you. replacing the boots and regreasing would just be a bandaid.
04-13-2004, 08:05 AM
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Sounds like the plan.. time to lose a little weight in the wallet area. Thanks for your help HT.
In all honesty this board is BY FAR the best honda/acura based forum site. People here actually know what they are talking about. Thanks!
In all honesty this board is BY FAR the best honda/acura based forum site. People here actually know what they are talking about. Thanks!
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04-13-2004, 09:19 AM
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Re: (Mendes)
Simple fix: buy a helms manual and learn to do the labor yourself. That way you never have to worry about a mechanic screwing you.
I hate scamming mechanics
I hate scamming mechanics
04-13-2004, 12:01 PM
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Re: (BeerMan)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BeerMan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Simple fix: buy a helms manual and learn to do the labor yourself. That way you never have to worry about a mechanic screwing you.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Have fun with the axle bolt if you dont have power tools. Try and find an import perfromance shop to do it. Ive done my before, but this last time I was just lazy. Only cost me $180 US for both
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Have fun with the axle bolt if you dont have power tools. Try and find an import perfromance shop to do it. Ive done my before, but this last time I was just lazy. Only cost me $180 US for both
04-13-2004, 12:51 PM
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Re: (Mendes)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mendes »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just got off the phone with my mechanic he told me $460!!!!
$158 per axel + taxes
then $100 labor!
mind you its $460 CDN but damn...</TD></TR></TABLE>
the labor rate sound right, but the part hum... kindna high. save your money and do it yourself.
$158 per axel + taxes
then $100 labor!
mind you its $460 CDN but damn...</TD></TR></TABLE>
the labor rate sound right, but the part hum... kindna high. save your money and do it yourself.
04-13-2004, 01:01 PM
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Re: (Mendes)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mendes »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just got off the phone with my mechanic he told me $460!!!!
$158 per axel + taxes
then $100 labor!
mind you its $460 CDN but damn...</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats about right....depending on where you live. there's too many competition with mechanic shops where i live, therefore its cheaper for for me.
$158 per axel + taxes
then $100 labor!
mind you its $460 CDN but damn...</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats about right....depending on where you live. there's too many competition with mechanic shops where i live, therefore its cheaper for for me.
04-13-2004, 01:29 PM
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Re: (StevenTran305)
Spend $20 and get a helms
Then get the axles from any local parts store and swap them yourself.
I did it on my first honda, made quite a mess but saved me a lot of money when I didn't have much to spend.
Btw he's not trying to rip you off, generally once they start clicking it means that they are out of grease and will need to be replaced
Then get the axles from any local parts store and swap them yourself.
I did it on my first honda, made quite a mess but saved me a lot of money when I didn't have much to spend.
Btw he's not trying to rip you off, generally once they start clicking it means that they are out of grease and will need to be replaced
04-13-2004, 01:33 PM
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Re: (b16ahybrid)
Buy yourself some NAPA or Pep Boys axles and take them to him. That way you'll be able to get money back on a core and he'll only be raking you for labor (which is fair, after all).
04-13-2004, 01:38 PM
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Re: (b16ahybrid)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16ahybrid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Spend $20 and get a helms</TD></TR></TABLE>
Helms manuals are more like 60 bucks, but still the best investment you can put in a car.
Helms manuals are more like 60 bucks, but still the best investment you can put in a car.
04-13-2004, 01:40 PM
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Re: (mafioso102)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mafioso102 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Have fun with the axle bolt if you dont have power tools. </TD></TR></TABLE>
If you just take off the nutt when the car is on the ground,
and use a braker bar or some kind of cheater bar, its not
hard at all.
Helms are a lot more then 20$, but dont go buy a 20$ manual.
Go spend the 70$ for the real helms, it will be your best friend
when your doing anything.
Axles really arnt that hard to do, and if your poor like most of
us, its definatly worth doing yourself.
Have fun with the axle bolt if you dont have power tools. </TD></TR></TABLE>
If you just take off the nutt when the car is on the ground,
and use a braker bar or some kind of cheater bar, its not
hard at all.
Helms are a lot more then 20$, but dont go buy a 20$ manual.
Go spend the 70$ for the real helms, it will be your best friend
when your doing anything.
Axles really arnt that hard to do, and if your poor like most of
us, its definatly worth doing yourself.
04-13-2004, 01:42 PM
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Re: (elwood)
Another easy way to get axle nuts loose is with a breaker bar and a jack. That's how I break mine loose without giving myself a hernia (and I have a buddy who broke a 1/2 breaker bar in half trying to get some loose).
Just put the breaker bar and all of that paralell to the ground, put the jack under the end of it and start to jack it up. Great amounts of torque with very little work from you.
Just put the breaker bar and all of that paralell to the ground, put the jack under the end of it and start to jack it up.
Great amounts of torque with very little work from you.
04-13-2004, 02:45 PM
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Re: (elwood)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by elwood »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you just take off the nutt when the car is on the ground,
and use a braker bar or some kind of cheater bar, its not
hard at all.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'll second that - IMO the hardest bit to do is splitting the lower ball joint, my splitter wouldn't fit and I couldn't get hold of one without using my car which was in bits..
This post is one of the most useful posts i've ever seen on here
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=382416
Thanks to Tom
If you just take off the nutt when the car is on the ground,
and use a braker bar or some kind of cheater bar, its not
hard at all.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'll second that - IMO the hardest bit to do is splitting the lower ball joint, my splitter wouldn't fit and I couldn't get hold of one without using my car which was in bits..
This post is one of the most useful posts i've ever seen on here
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=382416
Thanks to Tom
04-13-2004, 02:54 PM
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Re: (Mendes)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mendes »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just got off the phone with my mechanic he told me $460!!!!
$158 per axel + taxes
then $100 labor!
mind you its $460 CDN but damn...</TD></TR></TABLE>
dam where is he getting the axels from Honda. The ones at Autozone are like $70 after you return the core so I dont know where he is getting the prices. You can buy both for what he is charging you for 1.
$158 per axel + taxes
then $100 labor!
mind you its $460 CDN but damn...</TD></TR></TABLE>
dam where is he getting the axels from Honda. The ones at Autozone are like $70 after you return the core so I dont know where he is getting the prices. You can buy both for what he is charging you for 1.
04-13-2004, 02:59 PM
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Re: (Ricey McRicerton)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ricey McRicerton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Helms manuals are more like 60 bucks, but still the best investment you can put in a car. </TD></TR></TABLE>
oops, my chiltons was only $20, now I know why....It sucks dog ****.
I swear that the helms manualls are like $29 at schucks around here.
</TD></TR></TABLE>oops, my chiltons was only $20, now I know why....It sucks dog ****.
I swear that the helms manualls are like $29 at schucks around here.
04-13-2004, 03:44 PM
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I think u should DIY,when i first got my eg mine were shot and i was not really did not want to take it to a shop.So i bought a manuel and did it myself, not as hard as u think if u follow directions and have some friends for back up.Plus u will save money,and if it happens again u can fix it right on the spot.
04-13-2004, 05:03 PM
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Re: (Coupe d 'Etat94)
32MM socket------>axle nut
17MM socket ----->for the bolt and nut that goes through the lower control arm and the fork that the shock (strut) sits on
17MM wrench ---->look above .....one on the nut the other on the bolt
19MM socket ----->lugnuts
big hammer ------> split the balljoint
wire cutters (dykes) -----> for the cotter pin (dont cut use it to bend it straight)
17MM socket ----->for the bolt and nut that goes through the lower control arm and the fork that the shock (strut) sits on
17MM wrench ---->look above .....one on the nut the other on the bolt
19MM socket ----->lugnuts
big hammer ------> split the balljoint
wire cutters (dykes) -----> for the cotter pin (dont cut use it to bend it straight)
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