is my mechanic telling me right?
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is my mechanic telling me right?
this guy just explained it to me and can't even do it for me? i paid him to fix my car! after he installed parts....he wrote on the top of my dusty car something like; take out main relay fuse, battery fuse(under the hood), and disconnect the positive battery. is this another way to clear the codes?
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Re: is my mechanic telling me right? (nicks-eg6)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nicks-eg6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yep</TD></TR></TABLE>
so there are many different ways to clear the codes? i've always thought it would be the negative cable.
why do some prefer to clear it from the side-kick panel or under the hood?
so there are many different ways to clear the codes? i've always thought it would be the negative cable.
why do some prefer to clear it from the side-kick panel or under the hood?
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Re: is my mechanic telling me right? (nicks-eg6)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nicks-eg6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i prefer under the hood because, im lazy </TD></TR></TABLE>
how about just plugging out the #15 and 7.5? would that clear it out too?
how about just plugging out the #15 and 7.5? would that clear it out too?
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pulling the 7.5amp fuse will do it, all though it will clear your radio presets as well.
You can also pull the plugs from the ECU.
All you're trying to do is remove constant power to the ECU.
note: if you have an OBD2 car and ECU they can be cleared via scan tool.
You can also pull the plugs from the ECU.
All you're trying to do is remove constant power to the ECU.
note: if you have an OBD2 car and ECU they can be cleared via scan tool.
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Re: (Relic1)
If you dont feel comfortable disconnecting the battery or pulling the fuse or pulling the plugs from the ecu just take it to AutoZone and they can clear it for free with the scan tool.
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Re: (Relic1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pulling the 7.5amp fuse will do it, all though it will clear your radio presets as well.
You can also pull the plugs from the ECU.
All you're trying to do is remove constant power to the ECU.
note: if you have an OBD2 car and ECU they can be cleared via scan tool.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
why do some people pull it out from their ECU? that takes a little longer to do it when you can just pull it out from under the hood?
is it important to pull the #15 out too?
You can also pull the plugs from the ECU.
All you're trying to do is remove constant power to the ECU.
note: if you have an OBD2 car and ECU they can be cleared via scan tool.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
why do some people pull it out from their ECU? that takes a little longer to do it when you can just pull it out from under the hood?
is it important to pull the #15 out too?
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Re: (G2_Fella)
You dont have 2 do all 3 methods. Just pick one and get it over with. You just have to discontinue power to the ecu for a minute and it will reset itself.
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Re: (iluvmy2000civicex)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iluvmy2000civicex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You dont have 2 do all 3 methods. Just pick one and get it over with. You just have to discontinue power to the ecu for a minute and it will reset itself.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thank you. you set it. no more asking questions about this.
thank you. you set it. no more asking questions about this.
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Re: (G2_Fella)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by G2_Fella »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
why do some people pull it out from their ECU? that takes a little longer to do it when you can just pull it out from under the hood?
is it important to pull the #15 out too?</TD></TR></TABLE>
cause I hate resetting my radio, plus my ECU sits on the passenger floor....
no need to pull anything other than the 7.5A fuse.
why do some people pull it out from their ECU? that takes a little longer to do it when you can just pull it out from under the hood?
is it important to pull the #15 out too?</TD></TR></TABLE>
cause I hate resetting my radio, plus my ECU sits on the passenger floor....
no need to pull anything other than the 7.5A fuse.
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Who gives a **** about clearing the codes?
The CEL's are clearly indicating that something is wrong, how about you bring it to autozone and tell us which codes its throwing.
Or go here..but I don't think you'd understand that.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1901557
Go to autozone, they'll scan the codes for free, write 'em down, and come back to us - obviously your mechanic didn't fix all the problems. Maybe if you tell us what the codes are, people here can tell you what's wrong with it, and more specifically which parts to change, and you can A) Have a go at it yourself, or B) Take it to your mechanic and tell him specifically what to change.
Whenever I'm on a closed time table and need to take my car to a mechanic, I buy all the parts from Honda, and bring' em to him, tell 'em "install these." Works well.
The CEL's are clearly indicating that something is wrong, how about you bring it to autozone and tell us which codes its throwing.
Or go here..but I don't think you'd understand that.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1901557
Go to autozone, they'll scan the codes for free, write 'em down, and come back to us - obviously your mechanic didn't fix all the problems. Maybe if you tell us what the codes are, people here can tell you what's wrong with it, and more specifically which parts to change, and you can A) Have a go at it yourself, or B) Take it to your mechanic and tell him specifically what to change.
Whenever I'm on a closed time table and need to take my car to a mechanic, I buy all the parts from Honda, and bring' em to him, tell 'em "install these." Works well.
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Re: (Relic1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
cause I hate resetting my radio, plus my ECU sits on the passenger floor....
no need to pull anything other than the 7.5A fuse.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ah, i get the point now.
cause I hate resetting my radio, plus my ECU sits on the passenger floor....
no need to pull anything other than the 7.5A fuse.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ah, i get the point now.
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Re: (Syndacate)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Who gives a **** about clearing the codes?
The CEL's are clearly indicating that something is wrong, how about you bring it to autozone and tell us which codes its throwing.
Or go here..but I don't think you'd understand that.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1901557
Go to autozone, they'll scan the codes for free, write 'em down, and come back to us - obviously your mechanic didn't fix all the problems. Maybe if you tell us what the codes are, people here can tell you what's wrong with it, and more specifically which parts to change, and you can A) Have a go at it yourself, or B) Take it to your mechanic and tell him specifically what to change.
Whenever I'm on a closed time table and need to take my car to a mechanic, I buy all the parts from Honda, and bring' em to him, tell 'em "install these." Works well.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i did a searched and somebody said auto part stores doesn't scan obd1, only obd2.
that's how i prefer to do them too. find out what the problem is and buy the parts and let the mech get down.
The CEL's are clearly indicating that something is wrong, how about you bring it to autozone and tell us which codes its throwing.
Or go here..but I don't think you'd understand that.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1901557
Go to autozone, they'll scan the codes for free, write 'em down, and come back to us - obviously your mechanic didn't fix all the problems. Maybe if you tell us what the codes are, people here can tell you what's wrong with it, and more specifically which parts to change, and you can A) Have a go at it yourself, or B) Take it to your mechanic and tell him specifically what to change.
Whenever I'm on a closed time table and need to take my car to a mechanic, I buy all the parts from Honda, and bring' em to him, tell 'em "install these." Works well.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i did a searched and somebody said auto part stores doesn't scan obd1, only obd2.
that's how i prefer to do them too. find out what the problem is and buy the parts and let the mech get down.
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Re: (G2_Fella)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by G2_Fella »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i did a searched and somebody said auto part stores doesn't scan obd1, only obd2.
that's how i prefer to do them too. find out what the problem is and buy the parts and let the mech get down.</TD></TR></TABLE>
While it's true they can only scan OBD-II cars through their OBD-II ports with an OBD-II scanner, they usually have OBD-I scanners, some OBD-I cars (I'm pretty sure Civics are on that list) are able to be scanned using a scanner or a jumper. That's how my Ford probe was ('94, OBD-I), call an auto parts store and ask them. Hell, I'll even word it for you:
"Hey, are you guys able to do a check engine light code scan on a 199* Civic *X?
Some OBD-I cars can be scanned, others can't. I never looked into it for civics because jumping it is easier for me as the closest auto store is a good 35-40 minutes away. If you don't feel like doing that, then jump the connector, and video record the check engine light. Once you've seen it a few times you can read it just fine.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1901557
i did a searched and somebody said auto part stores doesn't scan obd1, only obd2.
that's how i prefer to do them too. find out what the problem is and buy the parts and let the mech get down.</TD></TR></TABLE>
While it's true they can only scan OBD-II cars through their OBD-II ports with an OBD-II scanner, they usually have OBD-I scanners, some OBD-I cars (I'm pretty sure Civics are on that list) are able to be scanned using a scanner or a jumper. That's how my Ford probe was ('94, OBD-I), call an auto parts store and ask them. Hell, I'll even word it for you:
"Hey, are you guys able to do a check engine light code scan on a 199* Civic *X?
Some OBD-I cars can be scanned, others can't. I never looked into it for civics because jumping it is easier for me as the closest auto store is a good 35-40 minutes away. If you don't feel like doing that, then jump the connector, and video record the check engine light. Once you've seen it a few times you can read it just fine.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1901557
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Re: (Syndacate)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">While it's true they can only scan OBD-II cars through their OBD-II ports with an OBD-II scanner, they usually have OBD-I scanners, some OBD-I cars (I'm pretty sure Civics are on that list) are able to be scanned using a scanner or a jumper. That's how my Ford probe was ('94, OBD-I), call an auto parts store and ask them. Hell, I'll even word it for you:
"Hey, are you guys able to do a check engine light code scan on a 199* Civic *X?
Some OBD-I cars can be scanned, others can't. I never looked into it for civics because jumping it is easier for me as the closest auto store is a good 35-40 minutes away. If you don't feel like doing that, then jump the connector, and video record the check engine light. Once you've seen it a few times you can read it just fine.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1901557</TD></TR></TABLE>
At least in my district we are told to only scan OBDII cars, which generally means 1996+ vehicles (some 1995s and even fewer 1994s).
Then again, we only have scan tools for OBDII. If there is an OBDI scanner in the store, it belongs to an employee. We are not usually willing to jump your codes for you with a paper clip.
Next thing we know your car broke our own scan tool or we broke something using the paperclip method and you're pissed and want us to fix everything imaginably wrong on your car. No thanks. We aren't a garage.
IIRC we have Ford/Lincoln/Mercury jumpers in packages behind the counter. Then we have GM keys (they look like a cheap metal key with two teeth in the end). I can't remember the last timem we actually used either of those though.
We do not have anything for 1992-1995 Civics though. You can find directions online to jump the code yourself using a paperclip.
"Hey, are you guys able to do a check engine light code scan on a 199* Civic *X?
Some OBD-I cars can be scanned, others can't. I never looked into it for civics because jumping it is easier for me as the closest auto store is a good 35-40 minutes away. If you don't feel like doing that, then jump the connector, and video record the check engine light. Once you've seen it a few times you can read it just fine.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1901557</TD></TR></TABLE>
At least in my district we are told to only scan OBDII cars, which generally means 1996+ vehicles (some 1995s and even fewer 1994s).
Then again, we only have scan tools for OBDII. If there is an OBDI scanner in the store, it belongs to an employee. We are not usually willing to jump your codes for you with a paper clip.
Next thing we know your car broke our own scan tool or we broke something using the paperclip method and you're pissed and want us to fix everything imaginably wrong on your car. No thanks. We aren't a garage.
IIRC we have Ford/Lincoln/Mercury jumpers in packages behind the counter. Then we have GM keys (they look like a cheap metal key with two teeth in the end). I can't remember the last timem we actually used either of those though.
We do not have anything for 1992-1995 Civics though. You can find directions online to jump the code yourself using a paperclip.
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Re: (NOFX)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NOFX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
At least in my district we are told to only scan OBDII cars, which generally means 1996+ vehicles (some 1995s and even fewer 1994s).
Then again, we only have scan tools for OBDII. If there is an OBDI scanner in the store, it belongs to an employee. We are not usually willing to jump your codes for you with a paper clip.
Next thing we know your car broke our own scan tool or we broke something using the paperclip method and you're pissed and want us to fix everything imaginably wrong on your car. No thanks. We aren't a garage.
IIRC we have Ford/Lincoln/Mercury jumpers in packages behind the counter. Then we have GM keys (they look like a cheap metal key with two teeth in the end).</TD></TR></TABLE>
Okay, I've taken my OBD-I probe to get scanned at autozone or advance auto before. So whether they "did" have it, or "currently told to not do it," or "no longer carry the tools to do it" - or whatever specifics I don't know.
@ OP:
Most mechanics will have OBD-I scanners, but might charge. OBD-I codes aren't specific, so it doesn't matter which method you use. If you're that confused & scared about checking your codes, put a paper clip in and video record the check engine light - then people here can tell you for sure what it means.
At least in my district we are told to only scan OBDII cars, which generally means 1996+ vehicles (some 1995s and even fewer 1994s).
Then again, we only have scan tools for OBDII. If there is an OBDI scanner in the store, it belongs to an employee. We are not usually willing to jump your codes for you with a paper clip.
Next thing we know your car broke our own scan tool or we broke something using the paperclip method and you're pissed and want us to fix everything imaginably wrong on your car. No thanks. We aren't a garage.
IIRC we have Ford/Lincoln/Mercury jumpers in packages behind the counter. Then we have GM keys (they look like a cheap metal key with two teeth in the end).</TD></TR></TABLE>
Okay, I've taken my OBD-I probe to get scanned at autozone or advance auto before. So whether they "did" have it, or "currently told to not do it," or "no longer carry the tools to do it" - or whatever specifics I don't know.
@ OP:
Most mechanics will have OBD-I scanners, but might charge. OBD-I codes aren't specific, so it doesn't matter which method you use. If you're that confused & scared about checking your codes, put a paper clip in and video record the check engine light - then people here can tell you for sure what it means.
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Re: (Syndacate)
im really curious as to if my car is throwing any codes only problem is my cel dosent work the bulbs are good it just dosent work for some odd reason..?(every other light works except cel and shift light)
is there any other way to check beside going to autozone or getting a new cluster?
oh btw its a '92
is there any other way to check beside going to autozone or getting a new cluster?
oh btw its a '92
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Re: (Syndacate)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
@ OP:
Most mechanics will have OBD-I scanners, but might charge. OBD-I codes aren't specific, so it doesn't matter which method you use. If you're that confused & scared about checking your codes, put a paper clip in and video record the check engine light - then people here can tell you for sure what it means.</TD></TR></TABLE>
at least in socal the law has changed now. aftermarket auto part stores no longer scan it for free now. (legal issues) why this time?
paper clip in plug- that's what i been doing. before came up with code 43. now it's 1-43. 1 fast, 4 slow, 3 fast. you tell me now...
@ OP:
Most mechanics will have OBD-I scanners, but might charge. OBD-I codes aren't specific, so it doesn't matter which method you use. If you're that confused & scared about checking your codes, put a paper clip in and video record the check engine light - then people here can tell you for sure what it means.</TD></TR></TABLE>
at least in socal the law has changed now. aftermarket auto part stores no longer scan it for free now. (legal issues) why this time?
paper clip in plug- that's what i been doing. before came up with code 43. now it's 1-43. 1 fast, 4 slow, 3 fast. you tell me now...
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