My Gas Guage has stopped working
09-09-2005, 08:39 PM
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My Gas Guage has stopped working
My Gas Guage has stopped working, is there anyway that i can fix this. I have checked the connections on the gas tank and everything seems fine. does this mean that i will have to open up the gas tank to check the bouy. any help or suggestions will be appreciated....
09-09-2005, 10:33 PM
#3
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^ exactly. are you having speedo issues also? if so, the cluster should go. also were you fiddling around with the cluster or anything or did it just happen out of no where? if out of no where and there is no speedo issues, it might just be the buoy
09-09-2005, 11:08 PM
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Re: (blaster834)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blaster834 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">could be the cluster itself.</TD></TR></TABLE>Could be..
It also could be the sending unit. Or just the guage itself. You can replace the single guage if needed. I could direct you to a part number and maybe help you better if its a wiring issue if I knew what year your car was..
To test the guage on an EG/EJ.
1. Check the #15 fuse (10a) before testing, should be the backup light if I remember correctly.
2. Remove the access panel from the floor under the rear seat.
3. Disconnect the 3pin connector
4. With a voltmeter positive probe on the YEL/WHT and the negative probe on the BLK/WHT turn te ignition switch ON. There should be between 5 and 8 volts.
5. If voltage is as specified go to step 6. If voltage is not in spec check for either a short YEL, YEL/WHT or BLK wire or a poor ground inside the car.
6. Turn ignition switch OFF. Attach a jumper wire betwen the YEL/WHT and BLK/WHT terminals and turn the ignition switch ON. Check that the pointer on the guage starts moving toward the "F" mark. Turn the ignition off before it reaches the "F" mark as to not damage the gauge.
7. If the pointer doesn't move the gauge needs to be replaced. If it does I will have to email you a page from the manual because it's complicated to test and it involves opening the gas tank and all. And if that is faulty I'm sure it's probably expensive.
It also could be the sending unit. Or just the guage itself. You can replace the single guage if needed. I could direct you to a part number and maybe help you better if its a wiring issue if I knew what year your car was..
To test the guage on an EG/EJ.
1. Check the #15 fuse (10a) before testing, should be the backup light if I remember correctly.
2. Remove the access panel from the floor under the rear seat.
3. Disconnect the 3pin connector
4. With a voltmeter positive probe on the YEL/WHT and the negative probe on the BLK/WHT turn te ignition switch ON. There should be between 5 and 8 volts.
5. If voltage is as specified go to step 6. If voltage is not in spec check for either a short YEL, YEL/WHT or BLK wire or a poor ground inside the car.
6. Turn ignition switch OFF. Attach a jumper wire betwen the YEL/WHT and BLK/WHT terminals and turn the ignition switch ON. Check that the pointer on the guage starts moving toward the "F" mark. Turn the ignition off before it reaches the "F" mark as to not damage the gauge.
7. If the pointer doesn't move the gauge needs to be replaced. If it does I will have to email you a page from the manual because it's complicated to test and it involves opening the gas tank and all. And if that is faulty I'm sure it's probably expensive.
09-10-2005, 03:01 PM
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Re: (HondaFanatic708)
i don't have any speedometer issues its just the gas guage, everything else works fine....i haven't touched anything thats why i am almost certain that its the bouy in the tank
09-10-2005, 04:56 PM
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Re: (subzeroracing)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by subzeroracing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i don't have any speedometer issues its just the gas guage, everything else works fine....i haven't touched anything thats why i am almost certain that its the bouy in the tank</TD></TR></TABLE>It could just be the gas gauge. My ECT guage didn't work, so I tested it. Guage was fucked so I replaced it, all good from there. Just make sure it isn't in the wiring before you buy the guage. But it could be the sending unit (buoy). So you have 3 possabilities.
1. Wiring
2. Guage ~$80
3. Sending Unit ~$40
So I guess the sending unit isn't expensive as I thought.
<U>So what kind of car do you have??</U>
I may be able to help you figure it out.
1. Wiring
2. Guage ~$80
3. Sending Unit ~$40
So I guess the sending unit isn't expensive as I thought.
<U>So what kind of car do you have??</U>
I may be able to help you figure it out.
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