votoms888

Recently bought a '96 CX to build for track use. The original engine is at 175,000kms so it is going to be trashed. My friend just had a B18C5 built for his '99 Sir so I picked up his old B16A2 and tranny for cheap. His motor has 170,000kms so we are going to rebuild it before it goes in. I appreciate any comments or additions that you guys may want to add. This is my first B-series build up so bear with me. He bought it new in '96 and had it since then. He kept it stock except for Koni/GC's, Gab Sports Wheels, and RSR Exhaust. There is not a single spot of rust on the car and other than some superficial scratches, is in mint condition. Only big cosmetic issue is the paint fading on the hood. Interior is also spotless. This is how the car sits currently. The engine is currently at the shop being put back together and the swap will be done soon after that. I have a number of parts that have not been installed yet or still on the way. Since the swap is being done soon I figured I would wait and have the rest of the stuff installed at the same time. The purpose of this car is mostly for the occasional track day (road) and to be driven around the city occasionally.

UPDATED: 04/27/2011

This is not the first car I have built but the first one that I will document. I will try and provide updates on a regular basis including pics. Hope you guys like what you see. Let me know if you think I have missed anything.

I welcome constructive comments but please refrain from telling me that any particular choice either sucks, is a chinese knock off, is junk etc. I made my choices because that is what they are, my choices. I had to restrict this buiild to a certain budget to appease my wife, I am sure many of you can understand this, so don't tell me I cheaped out. I may upgrade to better parts at a later time depending on my budget.

Honda Civic CX Hatch


Head:


Block:


New Valves:


Legit Spoon Spoiler:


Motor: B16A2
Nippon Racing CTR Pistons 81.5mm
Nippon Racing Rings
Blox Intake Manifold (port matched to 68mm)
Blox 68mm Throttle Body
Skunk 2 Stage 2
Blox Cam Gears
Blox Cam Plug
Blox Aluminum Radiator
Racetech dual valve springs
Exedy Stage 1
Exedy Lightweight Flywheel
NGK Spark Plug Wires
T1R Header
OEM seals and gaskets
OEM Timing Belt

Tranny: S4C
Mfactory Helical LSD
Mfactory 4.9 FD

Suspension:
2000 Si Front Swaybar
2000 Si Rear Swaybar
Koni Yellow/Ground Control

Running Gear:
15x6.5 Konig Helium
205/50/15 Falken Azenis Sport

Body:
Front Lip (not sure what it is)
Genuine Spoon Rear Spoiler

Interior:
Vision Technica FRP Racing Bucket (old school legit from my DC5 9yrs ago)
Bride FO Seat Rails
Spoon Duracon Shift ****

Parts Not Installed Yet:
T1R Bmax Coilovers (in a container somewhere in the middle of the Pacific)
T1R C-Pillar Bar (sitting at my friends shop)
T1R Purple Lug Nuts (sitting at my friends shop)
Genuine Spoon Front Spoiler
CTR Rear Swaybar (sitting in my friends garage)
ASR Rear Subframe Brace (sitting in my trunk)
Honda Access EK4 Front Lip (sitting on top of my Mercedes summer tires)
Honda Access Door Visors
Carbon Whale ***** (being molded right now on a huge whale's *****)

Aquafina

iTrader: (3)

S4C has the same gearing as the USDM and pre 98 JDM ITR. Go with the 4.923 FD. RPM will be higher, but you'll get better gas mileage than both stock FD and the 4.785 FD.

jdm_phunk

Dont go with BLOX for performance. "You get what you pay for" I had the blox rear LCA's which lasted me 3 months (installed June 15th by september the bushings were torn and fell out.

sk8shorty012

iTrader: (3)

A daily driven car with a 4.923 final and 0.848 fifth will net high freeway RPMs. With my 4.785 and 0.787 fifth I'm at 4,600 RPM @ 80mph to give you an idea.

votoms888

Going with Skunk2 LCA's anyway. I have read alot of posts about blox LCA having junk bushings anyway.

I was wondering mainly about their IM and TB though.

B

votoms888

Wow...I don't drive alot on the highway but 4-5k rpm while cruising on the way to the track is gonna be hectic.

votoms888

Can anyone comment on the BLOX Intake manifold and Throttle body?

sk8shorty012

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, with that setup you'd be @ approx 5,000 RPM in 5th gear @ 80mph but it's no problem for a basically track car.

The blox intake manifold is fine, I honestly don't know about there throttle bodies but I have read a lot about butterfly valves sticking on aftermarket throttle bodies. If MAXBore is still around I'd try and get your OEM throttle body bored.

YoungMula[Ej1]

Going with Skunk2 LCA's anyway. I have read alot of posts about blox LCA having junk bushings anyway.

Aquafina

iTrader: (3)

With 205/50/15's the 4.923 will put you at 4,850 RPM at 80mph. Stock is 4,350 RPM. The car won't be as loud as it is when you're cruising at a faster speed at the same RPM with the stock FD as you're barely on the gas at all to keep it moving at 80mph with the 4.923 FD, which is why you get better mileage out of it.

votoms888

K. Update on my build.

Decided to forgoe the ARP Head Studs and Rod bolts because this is a mild NA build. Going to spend the money on something else. Probably going to go with Supertech valve springs using stock retainers. Vehicle will be daily driven probably around 25,000kms/ year so don't want to go with Ti.

Went with the Exedy flywheel (9.5lbs) cuz it was FREE!!!

votoms888

Still can't decide on Cams. Leaning towards Buddy Club Spec IV with matching valve springs.

Head and Block are at the machine shop and will be back on Monday.

-valve grind
-replacing valve guides
-hot tank
-deck head
-bore and hone to 81.5mm

NotAJDMFanBoy

The head bolts I'd reconsider. It's not about strength, it's about economics. If you take the head off once, you save money using the ARP studs.

I honestly don't know too much about cams. Without decking, it looks like you're right about 12:1, so something marketed as a Stage 3 or so would be fine. When looking before, it seemed like Crower had better prices than some other companies. It's hard comparing different brands because there isn't a standardized method of measuring the lift or duration. Some they only measure the VTEC lobe, others only primaries.

votoms888

Only issue I am worried about is piston to valve clearance on something super high lift. I have searched HT and google and it seems as if I use OEM head gasket and not mill the block I should be ok.

NotAJDMFanBoy

Indeed this is an issue. Another reason to use a slightly milder cam but possibly consider porting. This is also why I didn't get oversized valves for my build. I got pistons that could accept them, but if the timing is off, there's a higher likelihood of interferance.

votoms888

Ordered more parts today. Finally decided on the following:

Blox Intake Manifold
Blox 68mm TB
Blackworks Half-rad
Samco Rad Hoses
Buddy Club Spec III+ Camshafts
Buddy Club Valve Springs
Buddy Club Cam Gears
Hytech Replica Header (we'll see how it works, otherwise RMF Replica)

votoms888

OSVAT Valves:



Only because 6 valves were bent. Forgot if they were IN or EX though.

These valves are acutally made in Italy.

votoms888

Block:



Just back from the machine shop.

-Decked
-Hot tanked
-Bored to 81.50mm
-Cross hatched @ 60 Deg

votoms888

Head:



Just back from the machine shop:

-basic 45 Deg valve grind
-new valve guides

votoms888

Pistons and rods are going to another machine shop to be fitted together.

votoms888

Change in choice of cams. The Buddy Club cam gears are on B/O so we decided to go with:

Blox C's
Blox cam gears
Supertech Valve Springs

41184ek9

use bishimoto cams they're pricey but almost the best money can buy...plus they use your cores and cutom grind them to your specs

votoms888

Don't really have the budget for them right now. My friend is actually going to use the C's too.

rhymeshark916

cool..keep it going

votoms888

Thanks. Just waiting for all the seals and gaskets from 1sthondaparts. Should be here by Monday or Tuesday.

Just picked up a set of brand new HE64 NGK Spark Plug wires today for $50 bux!!!