poppypizza

well it doesnt work just goes to full tank,, its not the wiring to it, switched it between 2 other cars same thing. And my gas tank isn't full either. Any ideas?

ridin98civic

you put your cluster in two other cars? or you put other cars clusters in your car? because the latter is what you need to do.

poppypizza

i put the cluster into 2 other cars, and it still shows the same thing (full tank of gas) its weird. are there fuses in the back of the cluster?

bmoua

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by poppypizza &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i put the cluster into 2 other cars, and it still shows the same thing (full tank of gas) its weird. are there fuses in the back of the cluster?</TD></TR></TABLE>

worst case you can upgrade to a Si/Sir/CTR cluster haha...Ex clusters dont go for much. I found one the other day for $40.

poppypizza

I like it better then a 5-1/2" tach ya know? That is why im trying to fix this one. also cause it was free!

qat727

I've had this same problem before. There are very small wires on the fuel gauge, two of them, if I recall correctly. What has most likely happened is that one of the wires has broken. On mine, it happened when I removed the fuel gauge from the gauge cluster to modify it.

There are 3 (I think, possibly 2 if I'm mistaken) screws holding the fuel gauge in. Those screws go into these metal posts that are supposed to be glued into the plastic supports for the gauge. They get old, come loose, and when you try to tighten the fuel gauge screw, the post turns and breaks that tiny wire. I broke mine bad enough I couldn't fix it, so I just got a new cluster (cheap solution). If that's your problem, you may be able to epoxy the posts back in place. You could probably get like a single strand of some very fine stranded wire and twist it in as a jumper, since soldering on that small of wire is damn near impossible for common mortals.

Then again, you might have something completely different wrong. But I'd check that.

poppypizza

the 3 on the back are what you are talking about right? not the front 2 that i think are there in the front,,, maybe im wrong there are 2 in the front lol anyways the 3 in the back of the cluster right?

DomaniTuner

This information came in very handy since I'm having the same problem. My fuel gauge constantly has a hard on. The only way I can tell if I'm low on fuel is the amber light. I've tried everything, even checked my fuel sending unit on the fuel pump. I've swapped a different cluster and it works, which means there has to be something like you described but I can't seem to figure out the tiny wire you're talking about. Is it possible to get a photograph, please?

poppypizza

check it and it went 2 on a post 1 on a post and 1 on another post,,,, nothing seemed wrong. put it back together same problem but now the temp guage is going straight up...

How do i "jump" these so they work? Anyone got a cluster out there?

SwappedTURBOegg

wana sell the broken cluster?

poppypizza

i dunno how much? also still wondering how to jump the gauge to work.

SwappedTURBOegg

i duno 25shipped? my tach in my em1 cluster doest work i need parts

poppypizza

anyone else got any ideas? ill probly keep it for the tach.

EK99hatch

I had the same problem with my ex cluster. Mine was stuck in the middle showing half a tank. I bought the part from honda. It was about $43.00 the part number is 78130-S41-C71. It comes with the fuel gauge and the temp gauge all in one piece. I just replaced it actually, and it works perfect. I filled up the tank last night and it now shows a full tank. Goodluck!

qat727

Sorry about the delayed response. I just got back from a week at the beach. I dug out my old cluster and snapped some pics. Sorry about the blurry shots. Apparently a 5.0 Mega pixel camera isn't good enough for macro photography. I think these will give you an idea of what I'm talking about, though.



As it turns out, there are 6 screws, all of them are #2 Phillips, 3 in each gauge, for both temp and fuel gauges. The whole gauge assembly comes out if you take the screws out.



As you can see, there's a crack in the mounting leg on the fuel gauge. The leg is plastic with a threaded metal stem inside. The plastic cracked from around the stem and lets it spin inside the plastic.



And there's the broken wire. I wasn't able to take a clear picture of the other end of the wire, but you should be able to get the idea. The wire broke because it spun around when being torqued down. That happened when the gauge assembly got reinstalled. The same looks like it could happen for the temp gauge, although it didn't on mine. I'd suggest being careful about screwing the gauges back in if you have it out and it's not already broken.

If you want to jumper it, I'd try tying into the broken ends of the wire if that's what's wrong with yours. As it was, my whole cluster was dead (notice the rust on the little cup covers), so I just replaced the whole thing.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EK99hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I bought the part from honda. It was about $43.00 the part number is 78130-S41-C71. It comes with the fuel gauge and the temp gauge all in one piece. I just replaced it actually, and it works perfect.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This might be your best option. It's something I considered, but was ultimately unable to do.

Syndacate

I have the same exact problem actually.

I just unplugged the sender unit then jumped it and it started to move up slowly - this means that the retractor cable inside the cluster is fine and I need a new fuel sender unit.

It's very easy to pinpoint if you have a helms manual, that's what I used.

Now, to just get the cheapest deal on a fuel sender unit . I was thinking hondapartsdeals.com - anybody else know a place cheaper? (Sorry, not meaning to thread jack, just very ironic because I have an EX and I was dealing with the same EXACT problem today )