My EJ8 problems never end - Help 4 CEL's :(
07-07-2007, 10:55 PM
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My EJ8 problems never end - Help 4 CEL's :(
So I just changed my fuel line going from the filter to the rail today because my old one was leaking, changed all the washers, nuts, bolts, etc. I also changed both (primary and secondary) O2 sensors. So I started it up and it threw 3 CELs - misfires accross 3 cylinders, I assumed this was b/c it coughed a lot starting up b/c I didn't give the fuel pump a chance to prime - so I drove it around the block, pulled the bat, plugged it back in, no CEL's.
About an hour later I go for a drive to meet somebody, got about 2 miles from my house, CEL came on then the speedo pinged to 130mph and died - went berserk between 130 and 0 - I thought the engine stalled, but the RPM was still right, along w/ the temp gauge (fuel gauge doesn't work because I need a new sending unit)...so since I was in a rush I pulled a 180, went home, and took my '95.
So I just got home, I checked the CEL's it's throwing four:
17, 20, 41, and 65
17: Vehicle Speed Sensor
20: Electrical Load Detector
41: Primary O2 Sensor Heater
65: Secondary O2 Sensor Heater
The speedo seems to be DIRECTLY connected to the TPS. No throttle = 0mph, half way = maybe 40 or so (pinging around, violent jerking), etc. etc. - and full throttle has the needle pinging at 130-90mph. I have no idea what's going on.
The only thing I can fathom is that when I unplugged the fuel line - some fuel (from driving it up on the ramps) spilled out of the rail, hose, filter, and such. So since the tranny is right beneath it I figure it spilled onto the VSS, I didn't notice it, whatever, it's gas, it evaporates fast, etc. etc. - I start my car and it shorts out, which would explain the crazy speedo, the VSS code, and the electrical load code, but doesn't explain either O2 sensor heater problem.
I suppose I'm in the market for a VSS now, but in the meantime I'm going to reset the ECU tomorrow and see if I can knock it down to just the VSS sensor code...I'm thinking it shocked the system which is why both O2 sensor HEATERS went crazy but they didn't throw any CEL's when I took it around the block earlier.
Blah, this just has me annoyed because if it is what I think it was it was easily preventable just by putting a towel down there... Though does anybody have any input on how the VSS got linked to the two brand new O2 sensors? Or maybe I did something wrong w/ the O2 sensors? I thought it was just screw in and plug but I could be wrong...anybody have any "special ways" of hooking up the O2 sensors? I put the dielectric grease on them and twisted it backwards so the wires are straight when I screwed them in. Any other special thing?? Any insight on any of this would be great.
Hopefully excess raw fuel from the fuel line shorted out the VSS sensor and messed up the system, if that's not it - ????????
Thanks in advance.
About an hour later I go for a drive to meet somebody, got about 2 miles from my house, CEL came on then the speedo pinged to 130mph and died - went berserk between 130 and 0 - I thought the engine stalled, but the RPM was still right, along w/ the temp gauge (fuel gauge doesn't work because I need a new sending unit)...so since I was in a rush I pulled a 180, went home, and took my '95.
So I just got home, I checked the CEL's it's throwing four:
17, 20, 41, and 65
17: Vehicle Speed Sensor
20: Electrical Load Detector
41: Primary O2 Sensor Heater
65: Secondary O2 Sensor Heater
The speedo seems to be DIRECTLY connected to the TPS. No throttle = 0mph, half way = maybe 40 or so (pinging around, violent jerking), etc. etc. - and full throttle has the needle pinging at 130-90mph. I have no idea what's going on.
The only thing I can fathom is that when I unplugged the fuel line - some fuel (from driving it up on the ramps) spilled out of the rail, hose, filter, and such. So since the tranny is right beneath it I figure it spilled onto the VSS, I didn't notice it, whatever, it's gas, it evaporates fast, etc. etc. - I start my car and it shorts out, which would explain the crazy speedo, the VSS code, and the electrical load code, but doesn't explain either O2 sensor heater problem.
I suppose I'm in the market for a VSS now, but in the meantime I'm going to reset the ECU tomorrow and see if I can knock it down to just the VSS sensor code...I'm thinking it shocked the system which is why both O2 sensor HEATERS went crazy but they didn't throw any CEL's when I took it around the block earlier.
Blah, this just has me annoyed because if it is what I think it was it was easily preventable just by putting a towel down there... Though does anybody have any input on how the VSS got linked to the two brand new O2 sensors? Or maybe I did something wrong w/ the O2 sensors? I thought it was just screw in and plug but I could be wrong...anybody have any "special ways" of hooking up the O2 sensors? I put the dielectric grease on them and twisted it backwards so the wires are straight when I screwed them in. Any other special thing?? Any insight on any of this would be great.
Hopefully excess raw fuel from the fuel line shorted out the VSS sensor and messed up the system, if that's not it - ????????
Thanks in advance.
07-08-2007, 02:05 PM
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Re: (pdiggitydogg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">look at your alternator fuse</TD></TR></TABLE>
If it backfed due to a short - would it have blown that fuse?
If it backfed due to a short - would it have blown that fuse?
07-08-2007, 03:56 PM
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Re: (Syndacate)
Well here's an update:
I pulled the fuse and it turns out that it was blown.
So I put another one in from my Jetta (same size/ampage) - then that one blew.
So I figured it blew the second one because it was still shorting out, so I stopped, popped another 7.5a fuse in there, unplugged the VSS (it's the one in the back w/ the 10mm bolt, right?) - started it up - drove, and bam, blew a third fuse.
So now it's throwing:
17: VSS
20: Electric Load Detection
41: Primary O2 Sensor Heater
65: Secondary O2 Sensor Heater
It's throwing the O2 sensor heater codes because they go through the same fuse as the VSS (so when that goes, the alternator doesn't charge the battery, and it throws both O2 sensor heater lights. So I figure we can cancel out the O2 sensor codes.
I expected it to throw the VSS code because obviously I disconnected it - but it's still throwing a 20 meaning it's getting a surge from someplace else
.
It keeps blowing the 7.5a fuse that works the VSS, alternator, and both O2 sensor heaters.
So anybody know why it would continue to blow this fuse? This all started I think because of when I spilled gas on the sensor when I changed the lines yesterday, but what else could be blown? I think there's g2 be a short someplace else.
The VSS is obviously expected...but it's pulling a load from someplace and roasting that fuse...blah
Any help????????
I pulled the fuse and it turns out that it was blown.
So I put another one in from my Jetta (same size/ampage) - then that one blew.
So I figured it blew the second one because it was still shorting out, so I stopped, popped another 7.5a fuse in there, unplugged the VSS (it's the one in the back w/ the 10mm bolt, right?) - started it up - drove, and bam, blew a third fuse.
So now it's throwing:
17: VSS
20: Electric Load Detection
41: Primary O2 Sensor Heater
65: Secondary O2 Sensor Heater
It's throwing the O2 sensor heater codes because they go through the same fuse as the VSS (so when that goes, the alternator doesn't charge the battery, and it throws both O2 sensor heater lights. So I figure we can cancel out the O2 sensor codes.
I expected it to throw the VSS code because obviously I disconnected it - but it's still throwing a 20 meaning it's getting a surge from someplace else
.It keeps blowing the 7.5a fuse that works the VSS, alternator, and both O2 sensor heaters.
So anybody know why it would continue to blow this fuse? This all started I think because of when I spilled gas on the sensor when I changed the lines yesterday, but what else could be blown? I think there's g2 be a short someplace else.
The VSS is obviously expected...but it's pulling a load from someplace and roasting that fuse...blah
Any help????????
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07-08-2007, 04:13 PM
#8
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You need to jack it up, crawl under, and inspect the main wiring harness @ the area where it crosses intake mainifold (its inside a cover)
More than likely, youre shorting out there
More than likely, youre shorting out there
07-08-2007, 07:18 PM
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Re: (pdiggitydogg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You need to jack it up, crawl under, and inspect the main wiring harness @ the area where it crosses intake mainifold (its inside a cover)
More than likely, youre shorting out there</TD></TR></TABLE>
Blah, i don't know how to check a main harness for shorts. I'm also kinda confused on where ur talking about? Jack it up, but where it crosses the intake manifold in a cover?
More than likely, youre shorting out there</TD></TR></TABLE>
Blah, i don't know how to check a main harness for shorts
. I'm also kinda confused on where ur talking about? Jack it up, but where it crosses the intake manifold in a cover?
07-08-2007, 07:59 PM
#10
In the link I posted above, one guy found the short from exposed wires rubbing against the bracket that supports the intake manifold.
Quote from the link:
"1. Find a engine fuse box from a junk yard. that is where the electrical load detector is found. and you have to replace the whole fuse box to change it, its not sold separately. and disconnect and remove your battery. and 2. Go under your car, and remove the bracket that supports the intake manifold to the the engine block. if you look behind that bracket, there are some wires on a blue connector that rubs against that bracket and creates a short. when i moved the bracket i could clearly see the wire/wires that was damaged. what i did was found the wire that was stripped and i covered it with some electrical tape. the i broke that blue connector from off its little mount, and i used some zip ties to gently pull those wires out of the way of the bracket because you should put it back to support the intake manifold. after i did that till this day the problem hasn't come back. so all u need is that engine fuse box next to the battery. i got mine off ebay for like 25 with shipping` from one of those honda junk yards. let me know how everything goes. i wish i had a camera to show you what i did but it took me like 30 minutes to do, and it only took that long cause i had no idea what i was lookin for. "
Another guy's problem was due to wires exposed against the cat.
Quote from the link:
"1. Find a engine fuse box from a junk yard. that is where the electrical load detector is found. and you have to replace the whole fuse box to change it, its not sold separately. and disconnect and remove your battery. and 2. Go under your car, and remove the bracket that supports the intake manifold to the the engine block. if you look behind that bracket, there are some wires on a blue connector that rubs against that bracket and creates a short. when i moved the bracket i could clearly see the wire/wires that was damaged. what i did was found the wire that was stripped and i covered it with some electrical tape. the i broke that blue connector from off its little mount, and i used some zip ties to gently pull those wires out of the way of the bracket because you should put it back to support the intake manifold. after i did that till this day the problem hasn't come back. so all u need is that engine fuse box next to the battery. i got mine off ebay for like 25 with shipping` from one of those honda junk yards. let me know how everything goes. i wish i had a camera to show you what i did but it took me like 30 minutes to do, and it only took that long cause i had no idea what i was lookin for. "
Another guy's problem was due to wires exposed against the cat.
07-08-2007, 08:32 PM
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Re: (tech8)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tech8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In the link I posted above, one guy found the short from exposed wires rubbing against the bracket that supports the intake manifold.
Quote from the link:
"1. Find a engine fuse box from a junk yard. that is where the electrical load detector is found. and you have to replace the whole fuse box to change it, its not sold separately. and disconnect and remove your battery. and 2. Go under your car, and remove the bracket that supports the intake manifold to the the engine block. if you look behind that bracket, there are some wires on a blue connector that rubs against that bracket and creates a short. when i moved the bracket i could clearly see the wire/wires that was damaged. what i did was found the wire that was stripped and i covered it with some electrical tape. the i broke that blue connector from off its little mount, and i used some zip ties to gently pull those wires out of the way of the bracket because you should put it back to support the intake manifold. after i did that till this day the problem hasn't come back. so all u need is that engine fuse box next to the battery. i got mine off ebay for like 25 with shipping` from one of those honda junk yards. let me know how everything goes. i wish i had a camera to show you what i did but it took me like 30 minutes to do, and it only took that long cause i had no idea what i was lookin for. "
Another guy's problem was due to wires exposed against the cat.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Naw, I don't think this is that. There was nothing like this and I had like 500 miles on the car. This happened right after I changed the fuel lines and fuel spilled all over the place. I had a pinhole leak in the line going from the filter to the rail. I unplugged it and it spilled raw fuel all over the trans. I thought it would evaporate as gasoline evaporates fast, but I turned the car on an hour later - went for a drive, then this happened not even 2 miles from my house.
Right when it happened the speedo went crazy. I'm thinking I spilled raw fuel on the VSS and then when I started the car it shorted out popping that fuse and throwing the CEL's.
Though I unplugged the VSS, and even after resetting the ECU I'm throwing a code 20 (electrical surge) - so it's shorting out somewhere and blowing that 7.5a fuse that according to the chart on it - operates the alternator, VSS, primary and secondary O2 sensors, and the evap purge - so it makes perfect sense that that plug is shorting out some how - I just don't see how it's shorting out after I unplugged the sensor as fuel on the WIRES wouldn't have shorted it out.
Quote from the link:
"1. Find a engine fuse box from a junk yard. that is where the electrical load detector is found. and you have to replace the whole fuse box to change it, its not sold separately. and disconnect and remove your battery. and 2. Go under your car, and remove the bracket that supports the intake manifold to the the engine block. if you look behind that bracket, there are some wires on a blue connector that rubs against that bracket and creates a short. when i moved the bracket i could clearly see the wire/wires that was damaged. what i did was found the wire that was stripped and i covered it with some electrical tape. the i broke that blue connector from off its little mount, and i used some zip ties to gently pull those wires out of the way of the bracket because you should put it back to support the intake manifold. after i did that till this day the problem hasn't come back. so all u need is that engine fuse box next to the battery. i got mine off ebay for like 25 with shipping` from one of those honda junk yards. let me know how everything goes. i wish i had a camera to show you what i did but it took me like 30 minutes to do, and it only took that long cause i had no idea what i was lookin for. "
Another guy's problem was due to wires exposed against the cat.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Naw, I don't think this is that. There was nothing like this and I had like 500 miles on the car. This happened right after I changed the fuel lines and fuel spilled all over the place. I had a pinhole leak in the line going from the filter to the rail. I unplugged it and it spilled raw fuel all over the trans. I thought it would evaporate as gasoline evaporates fast, but I turned the car on an hour later - went for a drive, then this happened not even 2 miles from my house.
Right when it happened the speedo went crazy. I'm thinking I spilled raw fuel on the VSS and then when I started the car it shorted out popping that fuse and throwing the CEL's.
Though I unplugged the VSS, and even after resetting the ECU I'm throwing a code 20 (electrical surge) - so it's shorting out somewhere and blowing that 7.5a fuse that according to the chart on it - operates the alternator, VSS, primary and secondary O2 sensors, and the evap purge - so it makes perfect sense that that plug is shorting out some how - I just don't see how it's shorting out after I unplugged the sensor as fuel on the WIRES wouldn't have shorted it out
.
07-08-2007, 08:54 PM
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Re: My EJ8 problems never end - Help 4 CEL's :( (Syndacate)
i had all 4 of these... i used a bigger fuse for the vss....
as for the other problems i still have them, what was said on the other board makes sense because all of those wires are connected on the main harness near the same point.
reading that i realize that my problem and your problem lies in the fact that somewhere before those wires there is 1 of a few problems and searching this board makes me think its more one the first one than the others
1. Some where on your harness you have a bare power wire grounding out there for short circuiting anything after that point making you lose power your your vss and to your 2 o2's
find the short cover it, and solve the problem
2. You may have 2 or more bare wires touching each other in the harness, this will be a pain to check but i would suggest checking first both sets of o2 wires espescially if you did what a lot of people did and extend them make sure you connected them well.
3. You may have had a few wires touch and then cause some wires to burn and then they are touching, you may have thought you fixed the problem but if the light is still on you still have a short somewhere....
from what i have read about the Electrical load detector (code 20) you have to change the fusebox as the post on the other site said so we are s.o.l. there and we have to buy new fuseboxs
now if you find the short and fix it and you are still throwing the o2 codes you may have screwed up the o2 sensors
i have yet to try and find my problem but i have done a lot of searching, read maybe 40-60 different posts on the e.l.d. and this last one kind of connects all the dots... i will check this first thing tomorrow as i thought it was a short somewhere because my o2 wires were stripped for a while (dragging on the ground)
Good luck and i will update you on if i fix my problem by doing this as i really hope i do but this should be the way to fix yours if its like the other guys.... (also you said you dunno how to check for short a short is just one of your power wires being exposed and then touching a ground somewhere so you just have to check all wires staring from the o2 area and making your way back...)
Good luck again
as for the other problems i still have them, what was said on the other board makes sense because all of those wires are connected on the main harness near the same point.
reading that i realize that my problem and your problem lies in the fact that somewhere before those wires there is 1 of a few problems and searching this board makes me think its more one the first one than the others
1. Some where on your harness you have a bare power wire grounding out there for short circuiting anything after that point making you lose power your your vss and to your 2 o2's
find the short cover it, and solve the problem
2. You may have 2 or more bare wires touching each other in the harness, this will be a pain to check but i would suggest checking first both sets of o2 wires espescially if you did what a lot of people did and extend them make sure you connected them well.
3. You may have had a few wires touch and then cause some wires to burn and then they are touching, you may have thought you fixed the problem but if the light is still on you still have a short somewhere....
from what i have read about the Electrical load detector (code 20) you have to change the fusebox as the post on the other site said so we are s.o.l. there and we have to buy new fuseboxs
now if you find the short and fix it and you are still throwing the o2 codes you may have screwed up the o2 sensors
i have yet to try and find my problem but i have done a lot of searching, read maybe 40-60 different posts on the e.l.d. and this last one kind of connects all the dots... i will check this first thing tomorrow as i thought it was a short somewhere because my o2 wires were stripped for a while (dragging on the ground)
Good luck and i will update you on if i fix my problem by doing this as i really hope i do but this should be the way to fix yours if its like the other guys.... (also you said you dunno how to check for short a short is just one of your power wires being exposed and then touching a ground somewhere so you just have to check all wires staring from the o2 area and making your way back...)
Good luck again
07-08-2007, 09:32 PM
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Re: My EJ8 problems never end - Help 4 CEL's :( (mckrank313)
The electrical load detector isn't bad - it's throwing a "electrical surge" for one simple reason - there's an electrical surge - that's what's popping the fuse - it's doing exactly what it's supposed to.
When that fuse pops the VSS doesn't work, the O2 sensor heaters don't work, etc. etc. etc.
The O2 sensors and the electrical load detector CELs are perfectly normal because it's backfeeding for some reason and owning that fuse.
I just can't figure out why, and a new VSS is like 81 bucks (cheap).
I'm like 3 days from paying 100 bucks for an auto electrical shop to fix it - because it's something stupid with the wiring and I'm not in the mood to roast 80 bux on a VSS and then plug it up and have it roast the sensor.
It's all related to this ONE short that seems to be happening at the VSS where it's backfeeding and raping the fuse which is causing the rest of the CELs - though more specifically, I don't know.
Important:
It's important in my book to know that after I unplugged the VSS is kicked the fuse out - so I'm just wondering if maybe it shorted out the VSS PLUG or something.
I need more 7.5a's minis as I took them from all the cars around so far w/ the exception of hazard lights and stuff. So I'll buy some fuses tomorrow and get back to work on it - taping up the ends and such - I'm like 99.9% sure the short is in or near the VSS.
When that fuse pops the VSS doesn't work, the O2 sensor heaters don't work, etc. etc. etc.
The O2 sensors and the electrical load detector CELs are perfectly normal because it's backfeeding for some reason and owning that fuse
.I just can't figure out why, and a new VSS is like 81 bucks (cheap).
I'm like 3 days from paying 100 bucks for an auto electrical shop to fix it - because it's something stupid with the wiring and I'm not in the mood to roast 80 bux on a VSS and then plug it up and have it roast the sensor
.It's all related to this ONE short that seems to be happening at the VSS where it's backfeeding and raping the fuse which is causing the rest of the CELs - though more specifically, I don't know.
Important:
It's important in my book to know that after I unplugged the VSS is kicked the fuse out - so I'm just wondering if maybe it shorted out the VSS PLUG or something
.I need more 7.5a's minis as I took them from all the cars around so far w/ the exception of hazard lights and stuff. So I'll buy some fuses tomorrow and get back to work on it - taping up the ends and such - I'm like 99.9% sure the short is in or near the VSS.
07-08-2007, 10:02 PM
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Re: My EJ8 problems never end - Help 4 CEL's :( (Syndacate)
well then you have a short right at the vss or right around it somewhere...
but like i said i had the exact same problem... the only reason i am not popping fuses is because i threw in a higher amp fuse for the vss... and if you can get rid of the eld let me know... when i searched on here 97% of the posts said only way to clear it is with the new fusebox because its built into it...
hell the guy on the other site called honda... they said the same thing... i'll keep searchin but let me know if you fix it and how you did it...
if your way doesn't fix it try mine.. haha could never hurt
but like i said i had the exact same problem... the only reason i am not popping fuses is because i threw in a higher amp fuse for the vss... and if you can get rid of the eld let me know... when i searched on here 97% of the posts said only way to clear it is with the new fusebox because its built into it...
hell the guy on the other site called honda... they said the same thing... i'll keep searchin but let me know if you fix it and how you did it...
if your way doesn't fix it try mine.. haha could never hurt
07-09-2007, 01:30 AM
#15
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like i said...you need to look at the main harness.
Even if you just wrap the whole thing with tap, in that area, Im sure thats the issue.
Its so common for 96-98 Honda released a TSB for it
Even if you just wrap the whole thing with tap, in that area, Im sure thats the issue.
Its so common for 96-98 Honda released a TSB for it
07-09-2007, 04:44 AM
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Re: My EJ8 problems never end - Help 4 CEL's :( (mckrank313)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mckrank313 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well then you have a short right at the vss or right around it somewhere...
but like i said i had the exact same problem... the only reason i am not popping fuses is because i threw in a higher amp fuse for the vss... and if you can get rid of the eld let me know... when i searched on here 97% of the posts said only way to clear it is with the new fusebox because its built into it...
hell the guy on the other site called honda... they said the same thing... i'll keep searchin but let me know if you fix it and how you did it...
if your way doesn't fix it try mine.. haha could never hurt
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, I could get around the issue w/ a higher amperage fuse, but that's not gonna solve the problem, it's just gonna mask it.
The problem is that my inspection expired thursday (the 5th) and in New York when you have a 1996+ car you can't be throwing CELs or you'll fail the inspection. So even if I had everything else fixed, it'd still throw that 20 which would still make it so it can't be inspected.
So a higher amperage fuse would just make things prettier, it wouldn't help me any, though.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">like i said...you need to look at the main harness.
Even if you just wrap the whole thing with tap, in that area, Im sure thats the issue.
Its so common for 96-98 Honda released a TSB for it</TD></TR></TABLE>
What exactly did they release the tsb for? The whole harness? Or just that section that goes to the VSS?
EDIT:
I'll try taping it up today w/ electrical tape...TSB? Is that the same as a recall? Does that mean it can be fixed for free - or is it just one of those things where they acknowledge a problem and don't do anything about it?
but like i said i had the exact same problem... the only reason i am not popping fuses is because i threw in a higher amp fuse for the vss... and if you can get rid of the eld let me know... when i searched on here 97% of the posts said only way to clear it is with the new fusebox because its built into it...
hell the guy on the other site called honda... they said the same thing... i'll keep searchin but let me know if you fix it and how you did it...
if your way doesn't fix it try mine.. haha could never hurt
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, I could get around the issue w/ a higher amperage fuse, but that's not gonna solve the problem, it's just gonna mask it.
The problem is that my inspection expired thursday (the 5th) and in New York when you have a 1996+ car you can't be throwing CELs or you'll fail the inspection. So even if I had everything else fixed, it'd still throw that 20 which would still make it so it can't be inspected.
So a higher amperage fuse would just make things prettier, it wouldn't help me any, though
.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">like i said...you need to look at the main harness.
Even if you just wrap the whole thing with tap, in that area, Im sure thats the issue.
Its so common for 96-98 Honda released a TSB for it</TD></TR></TABLE>
What exactly did they release the tsb for? The whole harness? Or just that section that goes to the VSS?
EDIT:
I'll try taping it up today w/ electrical tape...TSB? Is that the same as a recall? Does that mean it can be fixed for free - or is it just one of those things where they acknowledge a problem and don't do anything about it?
07-09-2007, 07:24 AM
#18
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Re: (tech8)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tech8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here is the TSB fix:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq...e.pdf
Normal warranty applies; so, most likely the warranty expired. Looks like easy fix.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh wow, thanks a bunch, that's like, the EXACT symptoms.
I will check that harness and wrap it in electrical tape today all the way up to the VSS (from where it splits off of the main harness).
I still find it just a bit coincidental that it happened when I changed the fuel line which is above the sensor in question.
Oh well, I have to go buy mini 7.5's (and unfortunately the nearest store that sells them is 35 minz away - one way) because I borrowed one out of every car and I like...don't have cruise control and my dad doesn't have dome lights, etc. etc.
So after I buy some more fuses I'm gonna take another shot of this per the service bulletin and your help.
I will post with my results later on today.
Dammit, it's 97deg F today with 82% humidity - and tha'ts INSIDE the house WITH AC, at least u guys out in cali have low humidity so the heat doesn't seem as bad.
Thanks, I'll let you know how it works out.
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq...e.pdf
Normal warranty applies; so, most likely the warranty expired. Looks like easy fix.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh wow, thanks a bunch, that's like, the EXACT symptoms.
I will check that harness and wrap it in electrical tape today all the way up to the VSS (from where it splits off of the main harness).
I still find it just a bit coincidental that it happened when I changed the fuel line which is above the sensor in question
.Oh well, I have to go buy mini 7.5's (and unfortunately the nearest store that sells them is 35 minz away - one way) because I borrowed one out of every car and I like...don't have cruise control and my dad doesn't have dome lights, etc. etc.
So after I buy some more fuses I'm gonna take another shot of this per the service bulletin and your help.
I will post with my results later on today.
Dammit, it's 97deg F today with 82% humidity - and tha'ts INSIDE the house WITH AC, at least u guys out in cali have low humidity so the heat doesn't seem as bad
.Thanks, I'll let you know how it works out.
07-09-2007, 09:46 AM
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I'll come back to this Wednesday. It's 90 something degrees with 80 something % humidity, and it's supposed to be like this today and tomorrow. I see what you mean by the way the harness disappears behind the IM where it can easily be rubbing against the bracket. I'll have to wait till Wednesday when it cools off an ***-ton and then jack it up and inspect the harness from the bottom.
I just unplugged the VSS completely and it popped the fuse again, so yeah, I'm like 99% sure it's the wiring in accordance with the TSB you sent me. I'll update Wednesday.
Thanks.
I just unplugged the VSS completely and it popped the fuse again, so yeah, I'm like 99% sure it's the wiring in accordance with the TSB you sent me. I'll update Wednesday.
Thanks.
07-09-2007, 06:17 PM
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Re: (Syndacate)
Aight, I took a look up there today.
Maybe I'm blind as a bat but I can't find **** as far as the "IM support bracket" goes. I found the plastic cover piece that covers the harness, and the main wires are hanging out...which I don't think it's how it's supposed to look. I snapped some pix:
Like I said, maybe I'm blind as a bat, it dark as **** under there, and the axles, header, and rear trans mount were all in my way, but I couldn't see the damn IM support bar.
Those wires are supposed to be wrapped, right? How? I can't reach it for ****, barely enough room when trying to get around the axles 'n ****. I'm thinking of taking off the intake manifold to wrap them but I'm not sure - any info is GREATLY appreciated.
PS: While I was under there everything looks SOAKED in something (and I can't tell what) - I'm thinking inner CV joint seal - anybody else got any ideas?
Help
Maybe I'm blind as a bat but I can't find **** as far as the "IM support bracket" goes. I found the plastic cover piece that covers the harness, and the main wires are hanging out...which I don't think it's how it's supposed to look. I snapped some pix:
Like I said, maybe I'm blind as a bat, it dark as **** under there, and the axles, header, and rear trans mount were all in my way, but I couldn't see the damn IM support bar.
Those wires are supposed to be wrapped, right? How? I can't reach it for ****, barely enough room when trying to get around the axles 'n ****
. I'm thinking of taking off the intake manifold to wrap them but I'm not sure - any info is GREATLY appreciated.PS: While I was under there everything looks SOAKED in something (and I can't tell what) - I'm thinking inner CV joint seal - anybody else got any ideas?
Help
07-10-2007, 03:32 AM
#22
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Re: (Syndacate)
This is not rocket science.
You have a short. You've been given a TSB detailing a possible culprit. Who cares that you can't see the IM support bracket? The instructions tell you to remove it anyway so that you can get to the item which actually might need the repair. Even if this TSB doesn't fix it, it's still just a short. If you unplug every sensor that is being powered off of that fuse and the fuse still pops with the key on, then you have a problem with the wiring. The only thing that the wiring is doing to pop a fuse is physically touching a piece of grounded metal. In this case, all you have to do is look for where it's touching. If you can't see where that might be, remove enough **** until you can.
Inner CV joint seal = tranny oil seal for the axle? Yes, that could cause an oily film if it was leaking. But if the actual CV boot was torn, you'd have a thick grease everywhere instead.
You have a short. You've been given a TSB detailing a possible culprit. Who cares that you can't see the IM support bracket? The instructions tell you to remove it anyway so that you can get to the item which actually might need the repair. Even if this TSB doesn't fix it, it's still just a short. If you unplug every sensor that is being powered off of that fuse and the fuse still pops with the key on, then you have a problem with the wiring. The only thing that the wiring is doing to pop a fuse is physically touching a piece of grounded metal. In this case, all you have to do is look for where it's touching. If you can't see where that might be, remove enough **** until you can.
Inner CV joint seal = tranny oil seal for the axle? Yes, that could cause an oily film if it was leaking. But if the actual CV boot was torn, you'd have a thick grease everywhere instead.
07-10-2007, 06:46 AM
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Re: (EE_Chris)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is not rocket science.
You have a short. You've been given a TSB detailing a possible culprit. Who cares that you can't see the IM support bracket? The instructions tell you to remove it anyway so that you can get to the item which actually might need the repair. Even if this TSB doesn't fix it, it's still just a short. If you unplug every sensor that is being powered off of that fuse and the fuse still pops with the key on, then you have a problem with the wiring. The only thing that the wiring is doing to pop a fuse is physically touching a piece of grounded metal. In this case, all you have to do is look for where it's touching. If you can't see where that might be, remove enough **** until you can.
Inner CV joint seal = tranny oil seal for the axle? Yes, that could cause an oily film if it was leaking. But if the actual CV boot was torn, you'd have a thick grease everywhere instead.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well it's quite simple - how am I supposed to remove something I can't find? It's VERY inaccessable from the bottom due to the rear mount, exhaust, and axles, that's why I was inquiring if it's possible to do from the top.
Each sensor the harness goes to? That one fuses powers the alternator switch, both O2 sensor heaters, the evap purge system, and the speed sensor. Certain stuff like the secondary O2 are hidden, can't really access the majority of the harness.
I realize it's "just a short." As for the CV seal, yeah, I realize what would happen if it was torn as I've torn a few, but if it leaked, iono, looks like it's leaking.
All the above isn't my main concern though
My main concern is if I can go buy an intake manifold gasket and pop off the intake manifold to work on this harness. I don't know if you've ever had to work on this harness or not, but it looks a ****-ton easier to work with from the top w/ the intake manifold off than it does reaching around the axle, rear mount, and exhaust header from the bottom.
You have a short. You've been given a TSB detailing a possible culprit. Who cares that you can't see the IM support bracket? The instructions tell you to remove it anyway so that you can get to the item which actually might need the repair. Even if this TSB doesn't fix it, it's still just a short. If you unplug every sensor that is being powered off of that fuse and the fuse still pops with the key on, then you have a problem with the wiring. The only thing that the wiring is doing to pop a fuse is physically touching a piece of grounded metal. In this case, all you have to do is look for where it's touching. If you can't see where that might be, remove enough **** until you can.
Inner CV joint seal = tranny oil seal for the axle? Yes, that could cause an oily film if it was leaking. But if the actual CV boot was torn, you'd have a thick grease everywhere instead.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well it's quite simple - how am I supposed to remove something I can't find? It's VERY inaccessable from the bottom due to the rear mount, exhaust, and axles, that's why I was inquiring if it's possible to do from the top.
Each sensor the harness goes to? That one fuses powers the alternator switch, both O2 sensor heaters, the evap purge system, and the speed sensor. Certain stuff like the secondary O2 are hidden, can't really access the majority of the harness.
I realize it's "just a short." As for the CV seal, yeah, I realize what would happen if it was torn as I've torn a few, but if it leaked, iono, looks like it's leaking
.All the above isn't my main concern though
My main concern is if I can go buy an intake manifold gasket and pop off the intake manifold to work on this harness. I don't know if you've ever had to work on this harness or not, but it looks a ****-ton easier to work with from the top w/ the intake manifold off than it does reaching around the axle, rear mount, and exhaust header from the bottom.
07-10-2007, 07:20 AM
#24
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Re: (Syndacate)
I have a 99 Cx hatch, 00 Ex coupe and a 00 Lx sedan. I'm familiar.
Of course you can buy a gasket, remove the intake and work on it like that. Or you can just remove that stuff (exhaust pipe, axle, mount) so it's out of the way. It would probably take you less time to remove those 3 items than it would the intake manifold. And there's probably more of a chance for something going wrong by taking the intake off vs the other 3.
I mentioned disconnecting all sensors that are powered off of that fuse because it seems you're a little hesitant to believe its actually the wiring and keep looking to the VSS and your fuel spill. You said you were "99% sure..." - be 100% sure by unplugging the sensors/solenoids, is what I'm getting at. Coincindences are a bitch, no doubt.
Of course you can buy a gasket, remove the intake and work on it like that. Or you can just remove that stuff (exhaust pipe, axle, mount) so it's out of the way. It would probably take you less time to remove those 3 items than it would the intake manifold. And there's probably more of a chance for something going wrong by taking the intake off vs the other 3.
I mentioned disconnecting all sensors that are powered off of that fuse because it seems you're a little hesitant to believe its actually the wiring and keep looking to the VSS and your fuel spill. You said you were "99% sure..." - be 100% sure by unplugging the sensors/solenoids, is what I'm getting at. Coincindences are a bitch, no doubt.
07-10-2007, 08:33 AM
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i dont see the intake manifold bracket in those pictures so someone might have already took it off.... Look in the bunch of wires under your I.M. there is probably a wire that is bare and touching something just start wrapping them..