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Dude, take the 15 minutes and swap that brake pedal so it doesn't look like a hack job. This can be done with some very, very basic hand tools in your driveway in about 15 minutes with no real experience.
Are you venting from the block too? If not already, you should consider it! Pretty easy to do, Speedfactory makes block adapters if you want to go the -AN route or use factory H23 block fittings.
Are you venting from the block too? If not already, you should consider it! Pretty easy to do, Speedfactory makes block adapters if you want to go the -AN route or use factory H23 block fittings.
Shinsen- I'm not sure if you can see, but I do have two, -10AN fittings on the valve cover. the breather on the back was closed and welded off, as well.
the left AN fitting on the valve cover has some oil line headed to the ground at the moment, but I do have an Allstar breather can at the moment, and I'm just waiting for the fittings in the mail. should be here tomorrow.
the can fittings are 1/2" hose barbs and the AN fittings are -10an to 1/2" hose barbs. gotta find some 1/2 tubing and mount the can up somewhere. do you have any suggestions as far as mounting places? mine has a drain bolt on the bottom, which I should probably take into consideration
Shinsen- I'm not sure if you can see, but I do have two, -10AN fittings on the valve cover. the breather on the back was closed and welded off, as well.
the left AN fitting on the valve cover has some oil line headed to the ground at the moment, but I do have an Allstar breather can at the moment, and I'm just waiting for the fittings in the mail. should be here tomorrow.
the can fittings are 1/2" hose barbs and the AN fittings are -10an to 1/2" hose barbs. gotta find some 1/2 tubing and mount the can up somewhere. do you have any suggestions as far as mounting places? mine has a drain bolt on the bottom, which I should probably take into consideration
On a B20 block I don't think it had a factory PCV system, at least mine doesn't. The fittings from Speedfactory replace two large "plugs" that would be on the back of the block which then feed into your breather system.
I would try to find the highest point in the engine bay that you can mount it. Too low will run into issues where the can fills with oil under load. I personally have mine setup to vent from the back of the block, to my breather can, and there is a return line that "T's" into one of the original vent hoses so that oil can return back. Some people avoid this but I change my oil frequently enough that it's not a concern. It's setup the way Endyn's system calls for.
Instructions on how I set it up can be seen in pictures here.
So I finally got rid of my check engine light for the Coolant Temperature Sensor #6!
i found out that the wiring colors on the CTS is white/green and red/black... well..... the plug that was attached to the CTS was indeed NOT that.......
what was actually plugged into the CTS was the VTEC SOLENOID........ plugs are identical, so i can only assume that the shop accidentally plugged them into the wrong spot, since theyre identical and right beside of each other
only problem now is the knock sensor which comes on every few miles, and goes away when the car is turned off and back on... weird.
ALSO!....
I finally got around to making a bracket for my breather catch can!
woot!
its a little haggard, and definitely looks home made, however, the fact that it works and is actually secure is surprising.
I decided that since i do not have AC in the car anymore, at this current time, i would utilize the bracket holes right in the front-
so i went to home depot, grabbed a sheet of 22ga sheet metal and a pair of tin-snips and make a bracket!
drew a rough sketch on some cardboard, marked everything down, traced onto the sheet metal, cut around it, drilled the holes, bent to fit between the rad support and the headers!
grabbed some 1/2" heater hose from advance auto (6 feet), two -10an->1/2" hose barb fittings, and slapped it all together!
the hose is so tight on the barbs that i dont feel i even need to use hose clamps...
either way, the car is finally good to go!!! shes been daily drivable for about 3 weeks now!
2.5" exhaust + 2.5" high flow cat + resonator + vibrant muffler all the way to the back!!! sounds SOOOO good. i hear hondas all of the time that are raspy, annoying, and just way too obnoxious, but i have to say that i love the sound of my setup.
despite having a cat on it, she STILL gives a little bit of backfire / popping. sounds so nice....
anyways. pics up later!
Just made my appt for December 5th to get the B20v DYNOTUNED!!!!!
ALSO!!!
I spoke with the tuner who will be in charge of running the operation and he said he would recommend that I DO indeed use my GSC n2 Camshafts w/ AEM Truetime Camgears.
EXCITED!!!!
We are going to do an initial pull on the dyno to get a baseline of the power from the basemap i've been written, and then we will swap the cams over, do a valve adjustment (havent done yet), Dyno tune it, and street tune it.
SUPER excited to get it going.
Right now, i want to make an educated guess that i am sitting around 165hp on the basemap (knock sensor CEL, valves need adjusting, running very rich, not tuned) and with the camshaft swap and actual tune, I am hoping for about 195-200. maybe even more, should it be a safe tune, per him, tuning it.
What do you guys think??
its a....
built b16a head (cams, dual valve springs, retainers, new valves, intake porting) stock high compression bottom end, 3 layer headgasket, ARP headstuds, 91+ oct, 2.5" 4-1 all the way back, rebuilt LS tranny
took it to the dyno. they blew it up on the third pull.
they didnt let me give the tuner the camshaft specs, they didnt ask a single question about the build, they didnt allow me to even be with the tuner.
they simply took my car, adjusted the valves when the car was STILL HOT to .006/.008, slapped my "unknown cams" that i had specs to, into it, didnt BOTHER to check for clearances and ******* sent it.
blew a god damn hole into the pistons, bent 6 valves, snapped one....
every mechanic says they owe me a new motor, regardless of the dyno waiver- this doesnt have to deal with the dyno- they didnt do what was necessary to do it correctly.
i am taking it to small claims court under tort of negligence. its gonna be a hard fight, but justice should and will prevail.
not only that, they stuck a bumper sticker in the middle of my windshield when it was being towed out of there.
i found out that the tuner, has a reputation for destroying motors, and has had several lawsuits / charges against him for similar behavior.
i've spoken with a few other tuning shops in the area, all of which said i should have stayed away from there.
Just wanted to let everyone know that the rebuild is just about underway!
I spent almost $700 from Honda on a complete oem rebuild for the b18c / b16 head.
Big chunk of money was from oem rings (didn't want to gap myself, a new oil pump, and a head gasket.
Otherwise, I have the entire b18c1 diseembled, the block and crank are headed to be machined today, and the head is set and good to go!!
Woot!
Just have to pull the b20v out to have a few things salvaged (water pump was brand new, and a few little things.)
i fully dissembled the b18c1 block a few weeks ago and had to taken to a Machine Shop in Glen Burnie MD. Ken the owner, has been there for 38 years and was an absolute blast to do business with. super super SUPER nice dude, helped a ton, offered so much damn advice, and took good care of my stuff for a REALLY good price.
-Hot tanked the absolutely filthy block
-Honed cylinders
-Hot Tanked again
-Checked mains
-Polished crankshaft
-mic'ed crank for bearings
-cleaned rods
-checked clearances for rod bearings
$300
ALSO:
Ordered $700 in parts, gaskets, OEM rings, oil pump, more gaskets, seals, more gaskets, some bolts, etc.
TODAY:
Ordered ACL duraglide Main/Rod bearings, ring compressor, ring spreader, spark plugs, a PCV delete kit (two bungs + plug), assembly lube, and a few other things.
______________________________
All thats left is to pull the blown b20b block/tranny, snag a few sensors / water pump / harness and assemble!!!
ANY tips, please.... this is my first SOLO engine build.
What's up guys!! It's been a hot minute since I've posted, but I just wanted to update everyone who followed my build that things have come to a halt, due to having two jobs, no hoist/lift and I'm not very wealthy
Just wanted to say that...
I hired a random Spanish guy to yank the b20v and tranny out. He did it in about an hour.
-the B18C1 short block is completely assembled and all. I put the clutch and flywheel on and she rotates as she should.
The b16 head is still minty fresh and if I had a chance to slap it on the block and time it up, I would .... Shortblock is too heavy as is, to move and lift, so there's no way I'm putting the head on.
The entire swap is in the trunk of the hatch right now. (((
10-13-2017, 03:49 AM
Re: My DAP EK Hatch build!
Re: My DAP EK Hatch build!
