My Build: 93 D-series Hatchback
07-17-2012, 07:17 AM
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My Build: 93 D-series Hatchback
Hello Everyone, Thanks for visiting my build thread. I am just getting started here so I will be catching up with things completed and preparing the things that lie ahead. I am in the US Navy and stationed in Maryland. I picked up my 93 Civic SI Hatch in May 2012 after selling my Infiniti G37s. I thought it was in great shape and have been trying to tasefully modify the car. The goal is to remain as much of a stock look as possible while makeing performance a primary goal as well. This will hopefully be a super clean sleeper so most aftermarket parts will be painted if necessary. No bling on this ride. I will be using this car as my DD as well for now. I will keep you updated as I can and list what things are completed and planned as well as if it was a DIY or where I took it to get it done. Engine will most likely be last as I tweak the suspension and work on other things. Thanks for stopping in and I hope you enjoy. Oh, and if you have questions about any companies or products I have used please feel free to ask. I most likely will not do a review for each individual one unless asked. PICS will be forthcoming so patience please.
MY Plans/Accomplishments
Exterior:
JDM Front Lip- PSWD JDM SIR style DIY
Missing JDM Front Mud Flaps- JHP USA DIY
Replace JDM hood emblem-hondapartsunlimited delivered
Minor dent repair
Window front window lower trim refinish
Sideview mirror paint repair
Interior:
JDM Armrest- DIY
JDM Double din console-Purchased
Replace tint -Tint Pro rockville, MD
JDM Floormats-DIY
Suspension:
Front sway bar-Eibach 26mm delivered
Rear Say bar-ASR DIY
Rear subframe brace- ASR DIY
Rear and front strut tower braces- PSWD JDM DIY
Rear Lower control arms- PSWD JDM DIY
Rear control arm bushings- Hardrace DIY
Coilovers- AMR DIY
Rear Camber arms, toe links, sway links- PSWD JDM DIY
Front Camber Arms- Buddy Club DIY
Transmission:
Replace grinding tranny- Rebuilt D-series tranny from another D16z6, Carbon Synchronizers(Gear Speed), Quaife LSD, bearings- Purchased, pending DIY
Short shifter and ****- TMW DIY
Axels- Gator carbon stage 2 axels-purchased pending DIY
Clutched-Picked up a used Competition clutch stage 5 not sure if I am gonna go that route though
Engine:
75.5 mm Vitara Pistons
Eagle Rods
ACL Bearing Set
ARP Head Studs
Head gasket
Springs n retainers (in line pro)
EBC Solenoid
68MM Throttle Body
D Edelbrock Intake manifold
Grams 550CC Injectors
OE 4 Bar Map Sensor
CC Stage 4 Clutch
Go Autoworks D Street Kit w/ 3" flared downpipe
Exhaust:
Thermal R&D exhaust and hi flow cat
Brakes:
SS Brake lines-goodridge DIY
Cross drilled slotted rotors- PSWD JDM DIY
Hawk HPS pads- DIY
Wheels/Tires:
15x7 O.Z. Ultraleggera Gunmetal finish
205/50R-15 Bridgestone Potenza RE-11
Lugs-Project Kicks R40 Gunmetal finish
Audio:
Pioneer AVIC-Z140BH 2DIN
JL audio thinline 13.5 in sub
Focal component speakers for japanese cars
JL Audio amps x2
Security:
Viper 5902 but I still pack heat.
MY Plans/Accomplishments
Exterior:
JDM Front Lip- PSWD JDM SIR style DIY
Missing JDM Front Mud Flaps- JHP USA DIY
Replace JDM hood emblem-hondapartsunlimited delivered
Minor dent repair
Window front window lower trim refinish
Sideview mirror paint repair
Interior:
JDM Armrest- DIY
JDM Double din console-Purchased
Replace tint -Tint Pro rockville, MD
JDM Floormats-DIY
Suspension:
Front sway bar-Eibach 26mm delivered
Rear Say bar-ASR DIY
Rear subframe brace- ASR DIY
Rear and front strut tower braces- PSWD JDM DIY
Rear Lower control arms- PSWD JDM DIY
Rear control arm bushings- Hardrace DIY
Coilovers- AMR DIY
Rear Camber arms, toe links, sway links- PSWD JDM DIY
Front Camber Arms- Buddy Club DIY
Transmission:
Replace grinding tranny- Rebuilt D-series tranny from another D16z6, Carbon Synchronizers(Gear Speed), Quaife LSD, bearings- Purchased, pending DIY
Short shifter and ****- TMW DIY
Axels- Gator carbon stage 2 axels-purchased pending DIY
Clutched-Picked up a used Competition clutch stage 5 not sure if I am gonna go that route though
Engine:
75.5 mm Vitara Pistons
Eagle Rods
ACL Bearing Set
ARP Head Studs
Head gasket
Springs n retainers (in line pro)
EBC Solenoid
68MM Throttle Body
D Edelbrock Intake manifold
Grams 550CC Injectors
OE 4 Bar Map Sensor
CC Stage 4 Clutch
Go Autoworks D Street Kit w/ 3" flared downpipe
Exhaust:
Thermal R&D exhaust and hi flow cat
Brakes:
SS Brake lines-goodridge DIY
Cross drilled slotted rotors- PSWD JDM DIY
Hawk HPS pads- DIY
Wheels/Tires:
15x7 O.Z. Ultraleggera Gunmetal finish
205/50R-15 Bridgestone Potenza RE-11
Lugs-Project Kicks R40 Gunmetal finish
Audio:
Pioneer AVIC-Z140BH 2DIN
JL audio thinline 13.5 in sub
Focal component speakers for japanese cars
JL Audio amps x2
Security:
Viper 5902 but I still pack heat.
Last edited by Usndocgreen; 01-06-2013 at 04:29 PM. Reason: Update
07-17-2012, 07:28 AM
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Re: My Build: 93 D-series Hatchback: Suspension
Not even 5 minutes to get into photobucket and post my links..... rediculous!! Take a chill pill boss man!
Last edited by Usndocgreen; 07-17-2012 at 07:36 AM. Reason: add photos:
07-17-2012, 07:32 AM
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Re: My Build: 93 D-series Hatchback
Just sayin.
wrong links. You want the IMG codes not the HTML codes.
<a href="http://s279.photobucket.com/albums/kk124/bigmgreen68/?action=view&current=f6b524ca.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk124/bigmgreen68/f6b524ca.jpg" border="0" alt="Uploaded from the Photobucket iPhone App"></a>
<a href="http://s279.photobucket.com/albums/kk124/bigmgreen68/?action=view&current=073cb501.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk124/bigmgreen68/073cb501.jpg" border="0" alt="Uploaded from the Photobucket iPhone App"></a>
<a href="http://s279.photobucket.com/albums/kk124/bigmgreen68/?action=view&current=2b0c8db1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk124/bigmgreen68/2b0c8db1.jpg" border="0" alt="Uploaded from the Photobucket iPhone App"></a>
<a href="http://s279.photobucket.com/albums/kk124/bigmgreen68/?action=view&current=073cb501.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk124/bigmgreen68/073cb501.jpg" border="0" alt="Uploaded from the Photobucket iPhone App"></a>
<a href="http://s279.photobucket.com/albums/kk124/bigmgreen68/?action=view&current=2b0c8db1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk124/bigmgreen68/2b0c8db1.jpg" border="0" alt="Uploaded from the Photobucket iPhone App"></a>
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07-17-2012, 07:39 AM
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07-17-2012, 08:06 AM
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Re: My Build: 93 D-series Hatchback: Engine Build/ Turbo
High output alternator installed
Engine bay currently
Engine build goodies
Thermal r&d 3" pipes, high floes cat and muffler
Engine bay currently
Engine build goodies
Thermal r&d 3" pipes, high floes cat and muffler
Last edited by Usndocgreen; 01-05-2013 at 03:54 PM. Reason: new pics
07-19-2012, 06:39 AM
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Re: My Build: 93 D-series Hatchback
Pretty excited today, I just picked up some used and new audio components. I ordered a new Pioneer AVIC-Z140BH 2DIN Nav/receiever touch screen as well as picking up some used audio goodies; audiomobile 12in sub, audiobahn and zapco amps as well as focal components. Was hoping to do the install myself but may have to be a custom job. Also the double din OEM black center console i got from ebay is en route from a guy in Poland.
07-19-2012, 08:33 PM
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07-19-2012, 09:13 PM
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Re: My Build: 93 D-series Hatchback
Those springs serve to cushion the driveline shock of the clutch material making contact with the pressure plate. Without those springs, unless you rev match perfectly (and I mean with a < 50RPM margin for error), you'll feel the driveline shock. Also without those springs, you'll absolutely have to chirp tires when moving from a dead stop. 4 puck clutches are also worse for driveline shock than 6 puck, or full surface clutches.
You don't need a 4 puck until roughly 250ft/lbs of torque (that's generally about the 500whp mark). I say roughly, because every mfg has different ratings. On a relatively stock motor (like yours currently) the most clutch you need is a stock replacement without the added cushioning material behind the surface material. A turbo build on stock internals (and even most Vitara builds) don't need more than a hub sprung 6 puck. You won't need an unsprung clutch until you start talking about block sleeving and serious headwork, and even then, unsprung clutches should be reserved for the track. On the flip side, now that certain companies are making multi-surface clutches for our D and B series motors, unsprung clutches should be a thing of the past, or for people who are too cheap to buy the right clutch for their application.
If you'd like a full explanation of how clutches are made, what all of the small parts in them do, and how exactly they work, I can give it. Just let me know...I'm not going to type it all out if no one is interested.
07-19-2012, 09:19 PM
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Re: My Build: 93 D-series Hatchback
If you look at the clutch in the pressure plate, it has springs near the hub of it. That's a hub sprung clutch. If you look at the other one, there are no springs. That's unsprung.
Those springs serve to cushion the driveline shock of the clutch material making contact with the pressure plate. Without those springs, unless you rev match perfectly (and I mean with a < 50RPM margin for error), you'll feel the driveline shock. Also without those springs, you'll absolutely have to chirp tires when moving from a dead stop. 4 puck clutches are also worse for driveline shock than 6 puck, or full surface clutches.
You don't need a 4 puck until roughly 250ft/lbs of torque (that's generally about the 500whp mark). I say roughly, because every mfg has different ratings. On a relatively stock motor (like yours currently) the most clutch you need is a stock replacement without the added cushioning material behind the surface material. A turbo build on stock internals (and even most Vitara builds) don't need more than a hub sprung 6 puck. You won't need an unsprung clutch until you start talking about block sleeving and serious headwork, and even then, unsprung clutches should be reserved for the track. On the flip side, now that certain companies are making multi-surface clutches for our D and B series motors, unsprung clutches should be a thing of the past, or for people who are too cheap to buy the right clutch for their application.
If you'd like a full explanation of how clutches are made, what all of the small parts in them do, and how exactly they work, I can give it. Just let me know...I'm not going to type it all out if no one is interested.
Those springs serve to cushion the driveline shock of the clutch material making contact with the pressure plate. Without those springs, unless you rev match perfectly (and I mean with a < 50RPM margin for error), you'll feel the driveline shock. Also without those springs, you'll absolutely have to chirp tires when moving from a dead stop. 4 puck clutches are also worse for driveline shock than 6 puck, or full surface clutches.
You don't need a 4 puck until roughly 250ft/lbs of torque (that's generally about the 500whp mark). I say roughly, because every mfg has different ratings. On a relatively stock motor (like yours currently) the most clutch you need is a stock replacement without the added cushioning material behind the surface material. A turbo build on stock internals (and even most Vitara builds) don't need more than a hub sprung 6 puck. You won't need an unsprung clutch until you start talking about block sleeving and serious headwork, and even then, unsprung clutches should be reserved for the track. On the flip side, now that certain companies are making multi-surface clutches for our D and B series motors, unsprung clutches should be a thing of the past, or for people who are too cheap to buy the right clutch for their application.
If you'd like a full explanation of how clutches are made, what all of the small parts in them do, and how exactly they work, I can give it. Just let me know...I'm not going to type it all out if no one is interested.
07-20-2012, 03:45 AM
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