jerkius

no, im not going to drag this **** out for months or years. i plan on having this done by the end of janruary or sooner.

i recently purchased a 94 civic on here from another member. it needs some suspension work before i go about purchasing turbo parts. however, since the suspension will directly tie into the turbo build, i figure its a good place to start.

first off, the previous owner cut the stock springs. bad bad bad! ride too bouncy.

i dont plan on putting out big numbers. my engine will be a rebuilt d15b7, which ill swap out for a JDM d15b later next year.

anywho, so back to the suspension. since im only wanting to put out 7-10lbs boost max, i want a suspension that will be able to handle the increased load.

would stock parts cut it? im about to replace the CV boots and possibly the axels. not sure if theyre bad or not. also going to replace the rotors with slotted ones and the brakes as well.

the rear brakes are drums, so i wanted to do a disc conversion on those. suspension is relatively new to me and i want to attempt this on my own. i plan on purchasing a service manual off of ebay for my own reference, as well as a chiltons for everyday use.

right now, when the car is turned left or right, it clicks (i know thats the cv boots). however, its pretty noisy on the highway as well. when i turn slightly right on the highway, most of the noise vanishes.

any clues as to what it is? after my orientation class tomorrow, i planned on taking the car to my usual mechanic and asking him to give the car a look-over. he's never did me wrong and the accord he sold me was frickin fast and really fun to drive.

anywho, pix to come. the first priority is to replace the cut springs with cheap ebay coil-overs till i get a real set of struts/springs(im eyeballin tokicos).

what do you guys think?

93egSLEEPER

sounds good.... maybe a mini me swap??

SOHCejcivic

1.) don't waste your time rebuilding the b7....just get the d15b and go from there.

2.) a basic suspension setup will work fine. you won't need a "pro launcher holy ****!" suspension setup.

3.) rear discs are a good idea.

4.) odd noise you hear on the highway is a wheel bearing. jack it up and jiggle each front wheel (top to bottom and left to right. if it only moves left to right, it's a tie rod.)

5.) don't waste your money on ebay coilovers....they're NO better than what's on it now. save your money and buy something decent.

jerkius

1)the d7 is already rebuilt. one of the main reasons i got the car

2)good deal on the suspension

3) figured as much, got any pointers/links?

4)it sounds like something is rubbing, but when i turn it slightly to the right, the noise mostly vanishes. the noise sounds like its in pulses, not consistant. like dat dat dat dat dat as opposed to daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaat the entire trip. make sense?

5) my h22 accord had ebay coil overs. they didnt bounce at all. these stock springs gotta go now!

SOHCejcivic

if you do rear discs, get stainless lines and good fluid. ATE super blue is the best bang for the buck...it's usually around $14 a quart.

that noise is definetly a wheel bearing. $45ish a piece + whatever it is to press it in (i have a buddy with a press though, so it costs me an order of nachos bel grande and a sixer of beer ) just find a machine shop that'll press it in and bring them the front knuckle with no brakes or anything on it.

jerkius

autozone has em for 45$. i dont need anything special, right? i dont know if my mechanic has anything to press them in, he might. he's got a ton of tools. this gives me a good starting place though.

maybe ill just splurge now and get the tokico struts/springs i saw on ebay for like 2 bills.

SOHCejcivic

the suspension...do it. that's a good price for decent aftermarket suspension stuff.

the only difference between bearings is abs or non abs....yours will obviously be non abs since its a dx and those never even had the option (i have an ex and i need abs bearings...even though i don't actually have abs.)

jerkius

the VIN shows it to be an EX model

1HGEJ1124RL002114

the previous owner replaced the d16 in it since the previous owner before him blew the d16.

i dont recall seeing an ABS light on my cluster, ill double check it in a few.

SOHCejcivic

if it has drums, it doesn't have abs. you have bigger brakes on the front though! you'll have to guess on the bearing size though...i'd say just buy the abs bearing. chances are it's the one you need (it's slightly bigger than the non-abs bearing.)

jerkius

will do. thanks!

jerkius

i also sent an email to the guy i got the car from , asking him what suspension parts he may/may not have messed with. it has a tenzo-r exhaust, maybe ill get lucky and it already has good struts :D

jerkius

exactly what is a mini-me?

andoxviii

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jerkius &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">exactly what is a mini-me?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It is when you put a VTEC head on a non-VTEC block. Usually donor motors are the d16z6 or d16y8

2tonecivic21

What about a ground control/koni suspension setup? That is a good place to start I think. A lot of people on here agree.

jerkius

ahh i see. maybe ill do that

jerkius

which head works better? pros/cons of each head?

which head gasket will i need? do i have to tap the engine for an oil line (like in ls/vtec)?

since im going to have the head off, and i want to turbo, doesnt it make sense to use a thicker head gasket to lower the compression?

help me out here guys!

also, im looking for info on a good intake manifold/throttle body combo. since im going to turbo, i figure a larger diameter intake mani/TB would be useful.

any thoughts on what axles i should use? since my cv boots need replacing (along with wheel bearings), i was just going to replace the axles and cv boots at the same time.

jerkius

alright. suspension repairs underway. my drivers side wheel bearing was crap. so were both my axles and the passenger side tie rod. replacement parts ordered!

Axles - 120$

drivers side wheel bearing - 50$

passengers side outer tie rod - 29$

total spent on parts so far: $199.00

parts to come:

tokico struts/springs

slotted front discs

drum to disc rear conversion

my mechanic at AutoSport Concepts also has my d16 head that will be used in the mini-me swap. we are going to send the head off to get rebuilt a week from friday (28th).

mini-me swap should be done by the beginning of janruary. my mechanic also said he has experience building home-brew turbo kits for mini-me swaps. if all goes well, i should have my turbo installed and tuned by the end of janruary :D

we guestimated i should put about 200whp down after the mini-me swap + turbo.

jerkius

parts ive purchased recently:

drivers side wheel bearing

axles good up to 200whp

skunk2 lowering springs

items to come:

tokico shocks/coil overs

digital instrument cluster

passengers side outer tie rod


extra stuff obtained:

rockford fosgate p325.1 amp
old school fosgate p300s amp
pair of alpine type r 6 1/2" components (in the front door, required serious modifications to get fit into place)
pair of kenwood 10" subs


i got all of that on a trade for some fish and computer stuff :D

SOHCejcivic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jerkius &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">which head works better? pros/cons of each head?

which head gasket will i need? do i have to tap the engine for an oil line (like in ls/vtec)?

since im going to have the head off, and i want to turbo, doesnt it make sense to use a thicker head gasket to lower the compression?

help me out here guys!

also, im looking for info on a good intake manifold/throttle body combo. since im going to turbo, i figure a larger diameter intake mani/TB would be useful.

any thoughts on what axles i should use? since my cv boots need replacing (along with wheel bearings), i was just going to replace the axles and cv boots at the same time.</TD></TR></TABLE>

z6 head....it's already obd1 and i don't like the combustion chambers on the y8's. all you'll need is a z6 headgasket and z6 head studs. that should give you around 10.5:1 cpr. if you want to get a thicker one, greddy 2mm gaskets are like $220. not sure what kind of compression that'll give you on a mini me...i'd imagine somewhere around 9-9.5:1.

the only thing you have to do to the dx block is pull the little oil jet. when the head is off, it's between the 2/3 cylinders towards the back on the block. it's about a 1/4" hole that has a piece jammed in it that has a smaller hole. slightly run a screw into the little hole (just enough that it grabs) and pull on the screw with some pliers until the jet pops out.

stock intake mani/tb should be fine, but if you want to upgrade, get a skunk2 mani (i think obx/blox makes a pretty good knockoff) and a itr throttle body. the itr body is 64mm compared to the stock 57mm. i'm almost positive skunk2 mani's have a 64mm inlet on them too.

stock axles are fine. there's no way in hell you'll make enough power to snap a stocker. new axles come with new boots, so thats 2 birds with one stone.

jerkius

thats why i got new axles. 2 birds/1 stone. plus, my goals are around 200whp.

alls i want is a car that is on-par with the h22 accord i wrecked. a turbo mini-me seems like it would do the trick.

also, since the cars a good deal lighter than my accord, 200whp will be just the same as the ~300whp that my accord was (i have a time slip for the non-believers)