thrty8street

iTrader: (7)

I am installing an eg6 5 piece Mugen mount set into my b18 swapped civic. When trying to install the driver's side mount, it did not fit.


I know that I need an integra driver's side mount to work with b18 swaps. Is there any way that I can still make use of my Mugen mount? Can I use the timing belt side mount (the piece that attaches to the engine) from a 2000 civic si (b16) to allow me to use the Mugen eg6 mount?


Thanks!

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

More details as to how and why it didn't fit, preferably including pictures, would definitely help you get a useful answer.

thrty8street

iTrader: (7)

View the pics below.




You will see the mugen eg6 driver's side mount holes do not line up with the engine mount bracket studs.




Here is a side by side comparison of the integra mount vs the mugen eg6 mount.



My original question: Can you use the piece below from a (99-00 civic si) on a b18 engine, to allow the eg6 mount to fit?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

There we go, exactly what I was looking for. You're trying to make a 2 bolt frame-side mount attach to a 3 bolt engine-side mount. Yes, the 2 bolt engine-side mount is exactly what you need.

thrty8street

iTrader: (7)

Thank you. How difficult is it to install that piece of the timing belt cover is still on?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Cover still on? Impossible. There's three rather large bolts holding it onto the motor.

thrty8street

iTrader: (7)

So basically, I have to remove the crank pulley to remove the timing belt cover, in order to get the mount bracket?

Matt_EH3

I am not sure I understand what you are trying to do. You shouldn't have to remove the timing belt or the cover to install mounts.

DumpdEJ6

In order to change the mount on the BLOCK, yes, he will have to take the timing belt cover off. If he was only changing the mount on the CHASSIS, then you would be correct.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Eh, you don't need to pull the crank pulley. Just unbolt the timing cover and pull it out of the way. Just be careful not to break it.

thrty8street

iTrader: (7)

Tried this today and did not have enough space to get to the third bolt at the bottom of the bracket.

Question: if I remove the crank pulley to remove the lower timing belt cover, will that affect the engine timing? If so, how can I prevent that?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

It won't affect your mechanical timing. The timing belt has it's own cog, behind the crank pulley, that has it's own key.

thrty8street

iTrader: (7)

I was able to successfully change the mount bracket after removing the crank pulley and lower timing belt cover. I highly recommend using the crank pulley removal tool to break the pulley bolt loose.

I will post updated pics later.

Now to tackle the rear mount. I hear it's not a walk in the park.

thrty8street

iTrader: (7)

Success! Any advice before I begin the rear mount?

tony_2018

Just go at it.....

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Get the car securely on jack stands, get under it, and go to town.

tamboo

this makes the rear look pretty easy, i suspect i'll be cursing when i do it soon.

tony_2018

Its not a pain to remove, its time consuming. HECK! Half the work people think are so damn hard just isn't hard at all.

thrty8street

iTrader: (7)

Can you guess which one is the new one?


The install wasn't too difficult, it was just a pain to reach certain bolts with limited space. I highly recommend having an assortment of extensions and swivels as well as an o2 sensor removal socket.


To make my life easier, I unhinged a few items such as the charcoal canister and the oem oil catch can (or whatever the proper technical term for it is), and I removed the o2 sensor to allow me more space for some of the bracket bolts.


I have been experiencing some major vibration at idle (around 750-1k rpms) where the steering wheel shakes significantly. I also see some vibration around 2k - 2.5k rpms. I know these mounts are stiffer than stock and may require some break-in.


Question: How long does break-in period of mounts usually last?


I have also read up a bit about "neutralizing the mounts" from random threads via a google search as well as this thread on H-T:


https://honda-tech.com/tech-misc-15/...olved-2779057/


However, most of the treads I've read are for automatics, where they say to place the car in drive and then reverse to center the mounts (while all the bolts are loose), and then tighten them in a certain order.


Question: Since my car is a manual, does that mean I should put it in 1st and reverse and let the car creep forward by letting the clutch out?

tony_2018

This is how its always been with stiffer mounts, especially with hardrace. Its reinforced rubber mounts so yes there will be a slight vibration. Once they are broken in, and I don't mean go drag racing, than it should be fine. I've had the hardrace mounts on my em1, all 5, and after a while it was fine. Or maybe I didn't pay any attention to it.

thrty8street

iTrader: (7)

I went ahead and "neutralized" the mounts today and it made a night and day difference.


The first time around, I torqued the mounts in the proper order but did not "neutralize" them.


This is how to do this: I loosened all the mount bolts (going through the rubber bushing). Then I turned the car on and put the gear leaver in 1st and crept the car forward by letting out the clutch. I also did the same for reverse. Then I shut off the car and torqued the mount bolts in the proper order.


Results: Less vibrations than before. With the exception of some modest steering wheel vibration at idle, it almost feels like stock. Shifting up and down is a lot smoother now. First gear take-offs are also smoother, with greater clutch pedal control. Before the "neutralizing," it felt like the mounts were binding, as if they were "pre-loaded" in a sense. This made smooth upshifting or downshifting very difficult and unpredictable.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

<p>Soft mounts (especially torque mounts) are definitely the bane of any performance driver's existence. &nbsp;Glad you figured it out and got it fixed, and thank you for giving a conclusion for the people who'll search in the future </p>