SilverWarrior

My driver side motor mount on my b16 is broken, and I want to replace it with new after market mounts (innovative). I want to do this myself instead of going to a shop and paying them to do it for me.. so I was wondering if it is difficult to do? What tools do I need and how do I do it?

Also should I replace all the other mounts with after market mounts as well or would it be fine by just replacing just the driver side mount with an after market one?

sit22 II

u need a 17mm 1/2 deep socket to und the nuts but before u do that get a jack and a block of wood to suport the engine, lift, lower engine while the mount is out
first thing u need to do is lift the engine using the jack with the wood in beetween the oil pan and the jack
lift the jack til tu see the engine move a litle than stop undo the nuts than the cross bolt after that remove mount.

thiscivicuser

yup he's right u need a jack and a block of wood to support the engine. first set the jack between the transsmission or engine oil pan with a block of wood on top of the jack. second lift it den take ur motor mount of. but u might have to take out wutever is blocking ur way on top of the motor mount so u can take the mount easier. dats basicly it. make sure u put the bolt back in a good patern inside back cuz if u don't u can expletiveed it up. be careful. good luck

crazyguy

the after market mounts like innovative or hasport mounts are very firm and stiff.that means you will feel the vibrations and it wont be as quiet and comfortable as oem mounts. and u can totally diy change the mounts. i did this myself too. u will need put a block of wood under tanny and oil pan. the rear mount is going to be pain in the butt and time consuming to change. cause i ended up take out the rear t bracket. it took me about 70 mins to replace all 3 mounts, and i got a hand from a buddy .


Modified by crazyguy at 8:53 PM 2/23/2008

nub

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sit22 II &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">u need a 17mm 1/2 deep socket to und the nuts but before u do that get a jack and a block of wood to suport the engine, lift, lower engine while the mount is out
first thing u need to do is lift the engine using the jack with the wood in beetween the oil pan and the jack
lift the jack til tu see the engine move a litle than stop undo the nuts than the cross bolt after that remove mount.</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thiscivicuser &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yup he's right u need a jack and a block of wood to support the engine. first set the jack between the transsmission or engine oil pan with a block of wood on top of the jack. second lift it den take ur motor mount of. but u might have to take out wutever is blocking ur way on top of the motor mount so u can take the mount easier. dats basicly it. make sure u put the bolt back in a good patern inside back cuz if u don't u can expletiveed it up. be careful. good luck</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crazyguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the after market mounts like innovative or hasport mounts are very firm and stiff.that means you will feel the vibrations and it wont be as quiet as oem mounts. and u can totally diy the mounts change. i did this myself too. u will need put a bokc of wood under tanny and oil pan. the rear mount is going to be pain in the butt and time consuming to change. cause i ended up take out the rear t bracket. it took me about 70 mins to replace all 3 mounts, and i got a hand from a buddy .</TD></TR></TABLE> youll need a block of wood and a jack... oh, nevernind

Arthas

6th Gen (6G) Honda Civic Motor Mount Inserts
Article By George Belton

This article will focus on stiffening your motor mounts. The benefits will usually be decreased wheel hop, more positive shifts, better throttle response, and less lost power due to torque flexing. The side effects are more noise and more vibration. Although I personally did not think this was the best of modifications for a daily driver after installing the inserts, there are others who swear by them. So, for those of you who want to give it a shot...here are step by step instuctions to save you some time.


Items to gather before you start:
- Jack and jack stands
- Block of wood (to place between engine/tranny and jack)
- Sockets: 10mm, 14mm, 17mm (deep), 19mm (1/2" drive reccomended for larger ones)
- Ratchets: 3/8" and 1/2"
- Extensions and elbows for sockets
- Breaker Bar Extension of some kind for leverage
- Torque Wrench
- 19mm crescent wrench
- Screwdriver (to remove intake clamps)
- Pliers (to remove hose clamps)


Before you start, you need to raise the vehicle and support it on jack stands. You should never work under a car supported by only a jack. You also need to disconnect the negative battery terminal.


Left Mount

First off you will need to support the engine with a jack and a block of wood under the oilpan. The block of wood evenly distributes the load.






Before you can get to the mount, you will have to remove the cruise control module. There are (3) 10mm bolts holding it down.






After you get the bolts loose, you need to disconnect the electrical connector and the large vacumn hose.






Now you can simply set it to the side.






With that out of the way you can see the mount and bracket. There are (3) 17mm nuts holding the bracket to the block and mount. You will need to remove these and remove the bracket.






With the bracket out of the way, you can see the (3) 14mm bolts holding down the mount. Remove all three and lift the mount out.






Now we are ready to put the inserts in. This will require a little lube and a lot of elbow grease.






This is what it will look like with the inserts in place.






Now bolt the mount back in. (33 lbf-ft)






Then the bracket. (54lbf-ft - top one first, then back two)





Now just reinstall the cruise control module and you are done with this side.




Right Mount

First off you will need to support the transmission with a jack and a block of wood. The block of wood evenly distributes the load.






Next you will need to remove your intake system, or filter box, to gain access to the mount. After you have done so you will need to remove (2) 17mm nuts and (2) 17mm bolts that secure the bracket to the block and the mount.






After the bracket is off, simply press the inserts into the mount and you are ready to reinstall the bracket.






Tighten everything back down and you are done with this side.
(47 lbf-ft for bracket hold downs, 54lbf-ft for pass through bolt)







Rear Mount

The rear mount can be a bit tricky, but if you follow these guidelines you should have it done in no time.


First off you need to keep the tranny supported by the jack.






The arrow here points to the area we need to get to..






Here is a little bit closer shot. You can see the backside of the bolt going through the bracket and mount here.






This is the front side of the same 17mm bolt...






Here we see the bolt holding the bracket to the block.






This is a closer view of the same 19mm bolt.






Then, there are two more 19mm bolts holding the bracket to the tranny.






Just another view, the arrow is the backside of the top 19mm bolt.






Now that we know where everything is, here is how to get them out. For the 17mm bolt holding the bracket to the mount, you need to use extensions to bring your ratchet past the end of the intake manifold. Then you need to use some type of breaker extension to get the required leverage to break the thing loose. I used part of a floor jack handle for this. You will also need to disconnect the brake booster hose that attaches to the intake manifold, remove your strut bar if you have one, pull the throttle cable out of the bracket in front of the master cylinder, and detach one small vacumn line under the intake manifold. All this is required so you have room to work.






Another view..






After you break it loose, you will use an elbow adaptor to make quicker, easier work of removing the bolt completely. It helps to squeeze your arm in and hold the socket on the bolt as you work.






Use a small extension and the breaker bar extension on the 19mm bolt on the other side as well. If there is any intake piping still in place, it will need to come off so you have room to work.






Now remove the two lower 19mm bolts. I had to use a crescent wrench on the lower one because the O2 sensor is in the way. You can remove it, but I did not want to damage it. For the top bolt, you can again use the ratchet with extensions. On all these 17mm and 19mm bolts, a 1/2" drive ratchet is reccomended due to the forces involved.






After those are all out you can wiggle the bracket around to get the inserts in the mount, shown by an arrow here. If you cannot move the bracket enough, then remove the (3) 14mm bolts holding the mount in place and there will be more wiggle room. That is what I did.






After you get the inserts in, tighten the mount back down first. (47 lbf-ft)






Another view..






Next slip the 17mm bolt through the mount and tighten just enough to catch about 7 or 8 threads.






Then do the 19mm top bolt the same way. Next reinstall the two lower bolts, you will now thank me that you did not tighten the top bolts all the way. Get the lower bolts tight (61lbf-ft), then go tighen the top ones. (19mm one to 61 lbf-ft first, then 17mm one 43lbf-ft last)

Now go back and make sure you hook all the lines you disconnected back up, reinstall any parts you had to remove, and check for tools in the engine compartment. Then, check for anything you missed, if you miss a vacumn hose your car will run pretty bad. Lower the car off of the stands, reconnect the battery, and you are finished.



You can find the full article with links to larger images HERE.

racerx510

AWESOME WRITE UP!!! i just got the energy kit and im installing today

kevarilla

Any way to get the images that went with this article/post? I need to do the mounts on the 1997 I just bought, and it would be crazy helpful.

Ericjergs

The images are showing up for me. Are you on mobile? Sometimes they wont appear on my phone but will on the desktop version.

civic402lx

Use a pc

kevarilla

Ah! It didn't show up on my mac or my phone - on the PC they are all there, bright and clear! Thanks, everyone.