motor help
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: richlands, va, usa
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motor help
I've got a 94 civic cx and the motor blow up, so my dad took it to dude that said he had the motor and would chage it out for me, I really needed the car back so I let them do this, the old motor was a b15b8 and after I got the car back he put in a different motor it runs but till it warms up its run bad the new motor is a d15z1 I've looked this motor up on the internet and it says its a vtec e but on mine the vtec is not hooked up what do I need to do too hook this up and what can I do to get this motor more power. Any help would be great thanks.
#7
Honda-Tech Member
Re: motor help (hondanut)
honestly i wouldn't trust any motor swap bill that was less than $1500.
assuming the guy has no overhead, motor runs $250-400 and he had to put $20 worth of oil, $5 coolant, and minimum 5 hours if he's good and fast. but he would need to charge what the book says to make a profit which is closer to 10 hours or $600 (assuming $60/hr, the regular rate here in SC) again this is without new seals and hoses and timing belt and water pump, which should all be a part of a good, reliable swap.
if the guy is reputable, he will fix it for you at no charge. if he is shade-tree or just shady he should still atleast offer some advice.
to fix it yourself you need to start with the right ECU. make sure that you have no codes once you get the right one. also try to identify what the guy put in for you. did he do the entire motor, manifolds and all? or did he just do the short block? do things look in place like hoses, hose clamps, wire harnesses, connectors, vaccum hoses..? double check everything, fluid levels, belt tension, ignition timing, cam timing.. eventually you will come across the problem.
hope it runs long and strong for you once you figure it out.
(oh, and i don't mean to bash this guy who put it in for you. i understand he could just be a helpful guy trying to give you a deal and a car that runs. but from what you said, and my past experience, it sounds less good.)
assuming the guy has no overhead, motor runs $250-400 and he had to put $20 worth of oil, $5 coolant, and minimum 5 hours if he's good and fast. but he would need to charge what the book says to make a profit which is closer to 10 hours or $600 (assuming $60/hr, the regular rate here in SC) again this is without new seals and hoses and timing belt and water pump, which should all be a part of a good, reliable swap.
if the guy is reputable, he will fix it for you at no charge. if he is shade-tree or just shady he should still atleast offer some advice.
to fix it yourself you need to start with the right ECU. make sure that you have no codes once you get the right one. also try to identify what the guy put in for you. did he do the entire motor, manifolds and all? or did he just do the short block? do things look in place like hoses, hose clamps, wire harnesses, connectors, vaccum hoses..? double check everything, fluid levels, belt tension, ignition timing, cam timing.. eventually you will come across the problem.
hope it runs long and strong for you once you figure it out.
(oh, and i don't mean to bash this guy who put it in for you. i understand he could just be a helpful guy trying to give you a deal and a car that runs. but from what you said, and my past experience, it sounds less good.)
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#8
Re: motor help (hondanut)
I have to agree with hondamark35. You probably need a new ecu plus a little wiring, nothing major. on the brightside the v-tech e motor is a gas miracle and with the right parts and tune can do 55-70mpg. that's right, expletive the prius.
#9
Honda-Tech Member
Re: motor help (KUNGFUHUSTLER)
yeah, i kick the prius in the face with my manual y7, 42.5 mpg on the highway with a/c on... don't worry about power untill you have to money to pay for it, the gas that is.
#10
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Re: motor help (KUNGFUHUSTLER)
I wasn't tryin to get a motor swap just get it fixed. I checked everything and it all looks good but the vtec is not hooked up and the wiring does not have the plug ins for it.
#15
Re: motor help (hondanut)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by maynards_ek »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check for a vacuum leak. The thing is not going to run right until you change the ecu.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Check for vaccume lines that arent hooked up properly, and remove you aidle air controll unit. (iac) it is attached to your intake manifold on the backside near your throttle body. Blast it out with brake cleaner really good if the screens are dirty. That is the reason for a lot of honda idling problems. Also your FPR (Fuel pressure regulator) could be having issues. The FPR is possibly the least likely but I figured i'd throw it out there. G/L!!!
Check for vaccume lines that arent hooked up properly, and remove you aidle air controll unit. (iac) it is attached to your intake manifold on the backside near your throttle body. Blast it out with brake cleaner really good if the screens are dirty. That is the reason for a lot of honda idling problems. Also your FPR (Fuel pressure regulator) could be having issues. The FPR is possibly the least likely but I figured i'd throw it out there. G/L!!!
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