P12 EG6

so here is the run down, I had a GSR block Sleeved and assembled at Exospeed Racing in california. Darton mid sleeves, stepdeck, everything that comes with a full built. 12.6;1 compression and ever sense ive had it it has had heating problems. now heres the hard part. ive tried everyhting in the book.

1. Flushed coolet/ bubled the system
2.new t-stat and waterpump and rad cap
3.Full length Koyo radiator, 800cfm fan
4.evans coolent and water wetter,
5changed the head gasket twice.
6 Resurfaced head

so here is the run down. first major overheating problem
after doing the coolent,t stat water pump drove it from humboldt county ca to SF, all the way there not a bit over hot. the but sure as anything after slowing down for the toll booth strait up to red, like the gauge almost peak out.... so i drive it for like a minute and it went dowm.... now the entire trip it kept going hot for a minute or so then all of a sudden dropping back to normal. so i end up taking out the T-stat on the side of the freeway to get it home. and never a bit above normall all the way home.. (300 miles)

so the complex part. i did a new head gasket and tryed to buble the system (with evans coolent, water wetter , koyo full length radiator, and spal fan) let it bublle for twenty minutes with occasional bubbles , then after that it stoped bubbleing for a couple of minutes then bubles would come up. for a minute or two ... then nothing than bubbles .... it went on like this for and hour... the whole time i watched the temp on my hondata. never about 202 degrees. fan only turned on one time ! so after an hour of bubling i figure its good so i cap it drive two miles then the temp gauge is all the way up. ( went from regular to hot in about 20 seconds) so i kept driving to see if it would go back down... nothign two minutes peaked out. so then i pulled over let it cool and made it home...


now even more complex...

get fed up with the heating problem so i send my built head to endyn to have it all redone ... a lot of money later the head comes back competly perfect!!! so i get a new headgasket assemble the motor ...now today i finished installing it drove the engine for about five miles then it headed up . all the way to peak heat for about ten seconds then back to normal... so i check the coolent level. it was good , no leaks nothing. then drive it around for ten minutes then all the way to max heat again but this time for about 60 seconds then it returens back down...

so about a half hour ago i leave my friends house do a quick 1st -4th gear pull and after five seconds of letting off bam. strait hot again for about a minute.


so HT im completly stumped any ideas????

Meoshe

iTrader: (3)

Maybe the gauge is going bad or the coolant temp sensor? I am assuming you did leakdown test to make sure there is a good seal.

P12 EG6

yup leakdown was good. you know i replaced the ECT sensor and gauge sending unit .... so i think thats not the problem

Meoshe

iTrader: (3)

Is the gauge itself good? you see that happen once in a while too. It seems you have done all the necessary steps to ensure a good bleed.

The only thing I seem to get out of it is the bubbling, my car would do that and a leakdown test proved that the #1 cyl. had a tiny leak. Sorry I couldn't be of more help

P12 EG6

now i appreciate the input!!!! ya im going to leakdown test it tomorrow... to make sure there is no leakage.

P12 EG6

bump
thers gotta be someone on here that has rran into a similar problem

Former User

I may have missed it, but is the lower radiator hose cold or hot when the engine is just warmed up? Also, does the radiator fan turn ON when the engine is hot?

Marauder

Does your overflow fill up with water and get a black residue inside of it?

hondamark35

if you're overheating, your radiator cap should dump coolant into the overflow. if you run it at hot, the overflow tank... should overflow onto the ground.

you need to take a look at the gage or temp sending unit. try a know good one if you can, to see if anything changes. i would start at the sending unit first.

once you rule that out, then you can go from that point to try to diagnose.

NobodieNoes

its obviously a t-stat problem. remember that engine is not stock at all. you might need a t-stat that doesn't close shut but open up when it gets hot. on your high power engine running no t-stat would be a better choice.

hondamark35

i'm gonna go ahead and dissagree. i don't feel you understand what a thermostat does. but benefit of the doubt and all, please elaborate on your advise. why would the "non-stock," "high power" engine need to run with no thermo?

waaBAAH

false.. your engine will never get warm if you dont install a thermostat.

you have to find a tempature in-difference in the cooling system. check upper and lower hose temps (like ron said), check heater core hose temp's. lets us know the temp readings and you will have an answer.

when you bleed the system..jack up your front end to make your radiator the highest point. sounds like air in the system to me.

also...how is the heat INSIDE the car? blowing hot? blowing cold? if you could take a temp. reading in the vents and a temp reading of the coolant itself inside the radiator.

tony7626

i have the same prob on my STOCK b16. Runs fine when im driving it, but if im at idle it shoots up, head got warped because i had to sit in trafic, let me know if you find out what the prob was

P12 EG6

it is not a t stat problem ....dont worry about that. the lower hose does get hot but it takes time, the fan will come on but only once the return hose heats up ..... yes it pushes out coolent from the overflow....

Meoshe

iTrader: (3)

That's another symptom my car had. I suggest you do another leakdown test.