Moody Windows! Could use some HELP
#1
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Moody Windows! Could use some HELP
i have a 00 si with moody windows. sometimes they are fast, sometimes they are verrrry slow. sometimes they dont move at all. my passenger side window always moves a little faster if i use the passenger side door switch. do i have any bad fuses or are the motors going out? or is it something else...?!
#3
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (NOFX)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NOFX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have you tried lubing the tracks with silicone spray before something ends up damaged?
This is a common problem on '96-'00 Civics.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I did this on my 92 4 door. Sprayed silicone spray along the tracks and now my windows HAUL ***!! My driver window never went down fully without EXTREME help, and my passenger rear window wouldn't slide up without help. Silicone spray SOLVED EVERYTHING!!!
This is a common problem on '96-'00 Civics.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I did this on my 92 4 door. Sprayed silicone spray along the tracks and now my windows HAUL ***!! My driver window never went down fully without EXTREME help, and my passenger rear window wouldn't slide up without help. Silicone spray SOLVED EVERYTHING!!!
#4
I've noticed on both sides that the rubber that guards the tracks and holds the windows in is bended and looks like it needs replacing.
Anyone know how much that'd run and if it'd be a pain in the *** to DIY?
Anyone know how much that'd run and if it'd be a pain in the *** to DIY?
#5
H-T White Ops
Re: (Surreal)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Surreal »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've noticed on both sides that the rubber that guards the tracks and holds the windows in is bended and looks like it needs replacing.
Anyone know how much that'd run and if it'd be a pain in the *** to DIY?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's not that bad to replace. Basically peel it off and insert the new one. It can be kind of weird to get it to sit right. I guess I sort of have a knack for it; my boyfriend couldn't do it. Then again, we were also in the middle of a full power door swap...
For anyone wondering why to replace the rubber seal, if the glass rests on the rubber funny (because the glass slipped out of the track), it deforms the rubber. It's not the initial cause of the glass going off the track, it's just caused by it.
Anyone know how much that'd run and if it'd be a pain in the *** to DIY?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's not that bad to replace. Basically peel it off and insert the new one. It can be kind of weird to get it to sit right. I guess I sort of have a knack for it; my boyfriend couldn't do it. Then again, we were also in the middle of a full power door swap...
For anyone wondering why to replace the rubber seal, if the glass rests on the rubber funny (because the glass slipped out of the track), it deforms the rubber. It's not the initial cause of the glass going off the track, it's just caused by it.
#6
Solbros Owns Me
Re: (NOFX)
Silicon does wonders.
If you have tinted windows, parts of the tint can flake off and get inside the run channel, causing a sticky operation.
Run channels are fairly easy to do, once you've done a few. Easiest way is to slide in with a lot of silicon spray to reduce friction.
For your first time, I'd recommend removing the door panel and window
If you have tinted windows, parts of the tint can flake off and get inside the run channel, causing a sticky operation.
Run channels are fairly easy to do, once you've done a few. Easiest way is to slide in with a lot of silicon spray to reduce friction.
For your first time, I'd recommend removing the door panel and window
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#8
Re: (NOFX)
I am.
You wouldn't recall how much the rubber would cost now would you? If it's not that bad of a nightmare, I may end up doing this here in a few weeks. Getting ready to sell the thing come next spring and would like to have everything in fine working order - that includes the power windows, lol.
Modified by Surreal at 12:09 PM 8/21/2008
You wouldn't recall how much the rubber would cost now would you? If it's not that bad of a nightmare, I may end up doing this here in a few weeks. Getting ready to sell the thing come next spring and would like to have everything in fine working order - that includes the power windows, lol.
Modified by Surreal at 12:09 PM 8/21/2008
#9
Solbros Owns Me
Re: (NOFX)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NOFX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We're both talking about the rubber that goes up and around the top of the glass, right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup, called the window run channel.
Cost is usually around 50 bucks
Yup, called the window run channel.
Cost is usually around 50 bucks
#11
H-T White Ops
Re: (Surreal)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Surreal »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Okay, now I see. . .I'm actually talking about the rubber molding that goes with the tracks INSIDE the door, not at the top of the door.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Which part in this diagram? The tracks in the door are metal. The rubber (8/13 - the part I had been talking about) goes particularly down the metal tracks, but not all the way.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Which part in this diagram? The tracks in the door are metal. The rubber (8/13 - the part I had been talking about) goes particularly down the metal tracks, but not all the way.
#12
Re: (NOFX)
Hmm, okay I see.
I'm talking about 7/12 and 6/11. So the rubber on those tracks are 8/13 and continue from the bottom of one side across the top of the door and then down the other side.
I see. Didn't think it was connected honestly, lol
I'm talking about 7/12 and 6/11. So the rubber on those tracks are 8/13 and continue from the bottom of one side across the top of the door and then down the other side.
I see. Didn't think it was connected honestly, lol
#13
Solbros Owns Me
Re: (Surreal)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Surreal »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hmm, okay I see.
I'm talking about 7/12 and 6/11. So the rubber on those tracks are 8/13 and continue from the bottom of one side across the top of the door and then down the other side.
I see. Didn't think it was connected honestly, lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
they are...on continuous piece
I'm talking about 7/12 and 6/11. So the rubber on those tracks are 8/13 and continue from the bottom of one side across the top of the door and then down the other side.
I see. Didn't think it was connected honestly, lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
they are...on continuous piece
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