Misfires and no compression. HELP!
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Misfires and no compression. HELP!
help save a dying beater!
<<< back story >>>
My buddy and I bought this as his winter beater. a 2000 DX hatch with 260K (km) on it, 1st owner car, stock everything. We knew it needed some work and we replaced the y7 tranny (old one had worn ISB), clutch kit and clutch slave. It ran fine for the better part of a month. Here's where it gets interesting
This week, a whole crap load of symptoms popped up out of nowhere.
- major loss of power
- need to rev to 3K to get the car moving on flat ground
- CEL flashes sometimes, sometimes stays on
- loud "POP" every once in a while
So last night, we tried a little detective work. Jumped the socket for the DTC codes and found:
- CEL codes:
71 P0301 = misfire on 1
72 P0302 = misfire on 2
73 P0303 = misfire on 3
74 P0304 = misfire on 4
- Ran a dry compression test, it ran:
Cylinder 1: 200 psi
Cylinder 2: 0 psi
Cylinder 3: 180 psi
Cylinder 4: 150 psi
- dripped very little oil in the cylinders and got the same results
- Here's what the plugs look like:
From left to right (Cylinders 4 >> 3 >> 2 (black one) >> 1)
Plug #2 did not smell like gas.
Plugs 1, 3~4 were very hot to the touch. Can definitely tell they are running SUPER lean
Question for you Gents: what exactly is wrong here? I don't want to spend a ton of money on parts without properly diagnosing the issue. I have searched on Honda Tech and people say change wires, rotors, and plugs. I can do that, but with the loss in compression in cylinder 2, there's no point if valve seals are bad or piston rings are gone.
So what should I do next? Leak down test? And can the car be driven for a while on 3 working cylinders? We just need this car to work until the spring, then we can swap something better in it.
TIA!
<<< back story >>>
My buddy and I bought this as his winter beater. a 2000 DX hatch with 260K (km) on it, 1st owner car, stock everything. We knew it needed some work and we replaced the y7 tranny (old one had worn ISB), clutch kit and clutch slave. It ran fine for the better part of a month. Here's where it gets interesting
This week, a whole crap load of symptoms popped up out of nowhere.
- major loss of power
- need to rev to 3K to get the car moving on flat ground
- CEL flashes sometimes, sometimes stays on
- loud "POP" every once in a while
So last night, we tried a little detective work. Jumped the socket for the DTC codes and found:
- CEL codes:
71 P0301 = misfire on 1
72 P0302 = misfire on 2
73 P0303 = misfire on 3
74 P0304 = misfire on 4
- Ran a dry compression test, it ran:
Cylinder 1: 200 psi
Cylinder 2: 0 psi
Cylinder 3: 180 psi
Cylinder 4: 150 psi
- dripped very little oil in the cylinders and got the same results
- Here's what the plugs look like:
From left to right (Cylinders 4 >> 3 >> 2 (black one) >> 1)
Plug #2 did not smell like gas.
Plugs 1, 3~4 were very hot to the touch. Can definitely tell they are running SUPER lean
Question for you Gents: what exactly is wrong here? I don't want to spend a ton of money on parts without properly diagnosing the issue. I have searched on Honda Tech and people say change wires, rotors, and plugs. I can do that, but with the loss in compression in cylinder 2, there's no point if valve seals are bad or piston rings are gone.
So what should I do next? Leak down test? And can the car be driven for a while on 3 working cylinders? We just need this car to work until the spring, then we can swap something better in it.
TIA!
#2
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Re: Misfires and no compression. HELP!
Also, as of this morning, the car would not start. It turns over like its going to catch but then it just never starts. We're stumped. Please help!
oh...and yes we searched on HT. We also tried the fuel injector cleaner, we tried rebuilt the dizzy, we tested the spark plug wires with a multi-meter. Everything seems to work.
any ideas?
oh...and yes we searched on HT. We also tried the fuel injector cleaner, we tried rebuilt the dizzy, we tested the spark plug wires with a multi-meter. Everything seems to work.
any ideas?
#3
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Re: Misfires and no compression. HELP!
The belt jumped and is out of time.
You will have no power, the pop is backfires through the intake. and it probably jumped even more now that the car is not starting...
Leak down test is only going to tell you if the valves are bad. If the belt is inded off a few teeth, youll need to put the belt back in time inorder to check that.
I wouldnt suggest driving it
You will have no power, the pop is backfires through the intake. and it probably jumped even more now that the car is not starting...
Leak down test is only going to tell you if the valves are bad. If the belt is inded off a few teeth, youll need to put the belt back in time inorder to check that.
I wouldnt suggest driving it
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Re: Misfires and no compression. HELP!
^^ thanks for your reply!!
That's exactly it! no power, exhaust has a "chug chug chug chug" type output. the car is parked for the week but I really want to get it back on the road.
Do you think I should adjust and retension the timing belt to see if it fixes the problem? I'm searching HT for a DIY now.
That's exactly it! no power, exhaust has a "chug chug chug chug" type output. the car is parked for the week but I really want to get it back on the road.
Do you think I should adjust and retension the timing belt to see if it fixes the problem? I'm searching HT for a DIY now.
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Re: Misfires and no compression. HELP!
yes, I suggest that. But if you have never done one, or arent mechanically inclined, I wouldnt suggest doing it your self. If there is any hope that the motor is ok, if you dont put it back together right, you can really mess things up further. I would take it to a shop.
#6
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Re: Misfires and no compression. HELP!
after all the carb and oil built up on the one plug that motor is toast. if u want it running again id buy another d series to swap in. you can use a z6 just reuse your oilpan and oil pump and pick up and the lower timing gear for the crank sensor.
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