c5egvx

B18C5 in an eg hatch, all stock internals. I have a chipped po6 on chrome and a stock obd1 p72 also. I was driving down the interstate and the car just died...let it cool and it started rite up, and I made it home... Po6 has launch control, and it wouldn't rev above that, so I thought the chip took a dump. Put in the stock ecu, and now is misfires bad at 6500 rpms and higher. Tried again today and it drove for about ten mins then shut off again. The only cel on stock ecu is for o2 sensor, and luckily where I live I don't need it for emissions, so its not there. New fuel filter, plugs, and wires, and dizzy cap and rotor, injectors are working, runs great at low rpms. Maybe a sensor? Ignition coil a possibility? I'm at a loss on this one, can somebody be my new best friend and help me out? Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks.

h23darkprelude

check for simple things like vacuum leaks.

c5egvx

Thanks i'll check tomorrow. Even though it works fine when its cooled down?

c5egvx

No vacuum leak that I can find...Now it wont start at all! Gonna try the coil tomorrow and keep my fingers crossed. If that doesn't work, anybody want to buy a bad *** eg that don't run? LOL Seriously any more help would be great...Where are the Honda gurus?

JDM Lyfestyle

check the coil and igniter I had a similar problem a while back

itsnotfast

Breaking up at high r's? Sounds like fuel deprivation. Have you checked your fuel pressure? Sediments settling in the lines maybe?

c5egvx

Never checked the pressure, what should it be? I had an injector get clogged bad a while ago...went through the fuel system then, and everything was fine after that. Put a new filter and line from filter, cleaned the AEM rail up nice and soaked the injectors in some Gumout. Cycled the line from the fuel pump and no yuckies...I know, it only works till it breaks, rite....Maybe I'll get some time this weekend to change the coil and my next message will be about burnouts rather than this bs.

itsnotfast

Lol at least you still have a sense of humor.

Steps for checking your fuel pressure are as follows:
Release pressure from the fuel system carefully. Loosen the banjo bolt on the top of the cars fuel filter. Disconnect the battery and remove the fuel fill cap. Use a box wrench to hold the bolt while you hold the fuel filter with a second wrench. Loosen the bolt one full counter-clockwise turn to release any engine pressure.

Wait as any pressure is released from the fuel system and then remove the banjo bolt. Screw a fuel pressure adapter bolt into the banjo bolt hole. The fuel pressure reading is given at the gauge on the top of the bolt.

Reconnect the battery and disconnect the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator. Pinch the vacuum hose. If necessary, refer to the owner's manual for a diagram of the fuel system lines and hoses to help locate the vacuum hose.

Start the engine and let it idle as you check the fuel pressure reading. Pressure needs to be between 270 and 320 kPa (2.8 to 3.3 kgf/cm2, 40 to 47 psi) for a B18B1 engine, or between 320 and 370 kPa (3.3 to 3.8 kgf/cm2, 47 to 54 psi) for B18C1 and B18C5 engines.

Cut the engine. Reconnect the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator.

Start the engine, let it idle and check the fuel pressure again. Pressure now needs to read between 250 and 290 kPa (2.5 to 3.0 kgf/cm2, 36 to 43 psi) for a B18B1 engine, or between 260 and 310 kPa (2.7 to 3.2 kgf/cm2, 38 to 46 psi) for B18C1 and B18C5 engines.

Determine whether the fuel pressure meets the above requirements for both checks. If it does, the fuel delivery is optimal. If fuel pressure is too high, the system is delivering too much fuel to the engine. Check the fuel return hose and lines visually for pinches or clogs. If there are none, the likely cause of the high pressure is a malfunctioning fuel pressure regulator. If fuel pressure is too low, the system is not delivering enough fuel to the engine, which may be caused by a clogged fuel filter.

itsnotfast

By the way, welcome to H-T!

ChevelleSSLS6

could it be caused by valve float (say, in a high mileage engine, or one that's seen a lot of high revving or other 'enthusiastic use')

itsnotfast

The breaking up could be but I don't know about the car just shutting down. The C5 motor should be able to handle 7500-8000 r's if i'm not mistaken. I doubt the valve springs would be that weak plus it does have dual valve springs, but I guess it's possible.

ChevelleSSLS6

At first I thought you were talking about a Corvette, and I was like 'what the hell?' for a moment until I checked the first post where the guy mentions the model (alphabet soup code here) of his engine.

c5egvx

Thanks for the welcome, the site has helped a bunch already...

And to clarify, I have the engine from a U.S. market Acura Integra Type-R. Model year 1998 converted to OBD1.

Had it revving 7500 no problem b4 all this crap. It started right up today (of course) and ran fine for about 30 mins in my driveway...I'm scared to drive it cause i'm tired of getting stranded! At least the 2002 coupe is stock and goes anywhere I need it to...At this point does anyone think its the coil? I don't want to spend the money if I don't have to. I don't think it is the valves floating tho. I will check the fuel pressure asap...Thanks for the step by step btw. Can I use any b series vtec regulator or is this a type r specific part? Any other suggestions guys? Thanks for your help everybody!