mini or y8
#3
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Re: mini or y8 (void_accord)
i did the mini in my crx y8 head on d16a6 block......not enough power gain....IMO Mini me = waste of time and money that could be saved for better engine swap
#4
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Re: mini or y8 (dan89crxsi)
My mini-me (y7-y8), dyno'd @ 111hp, my stock y7 dyno'd @ 94hp. Its been 2 years since I did it, and still runs just as strong. Only swaped heads, only replaced seals in the y8 head. If you can get the complete head cheap enough, go for it. I highly recomend the ex/ z6 tranny as well. You will notice the most gains from that.
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Re: mini or y8 (Slothy)
$200 head then you need some way to activate vtec so either a vafc $200+ or a vtec controller switch like $45 from summit plus the labor then you might have to get a adjustable cam gear to fix the timing for the sohc frankenstein like i did and the labor time for you to put this **** on your SOHC for 17hp not worth it to me. save up and get a good foundation for more hp gains in the future. I did however do the mini me to experiment and save money but funds are still low and after doing the mini me i suggest saving up for a b series or better especially in the k-series era we are entering. If you are set on doing one or the other though i would just go with the whole y8 swap. This would be easier than the mini me and more reliable.
#7
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Re: mini or y8 (dan89crxsi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dan89crxsi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">$200 head then you need some way to activate vtec so either a vafc $200+ or a vtec controller switch like $45 from summit plus the labor then you might have to get a adjustable cam gear to fix the timing for the sohc frankenstein like i did and the labor time for you to put this **** on your SOHC for 17hp not worth it to me. save up and get a good foundation for more hp gains in the future. I did however do the mini me to experiment and save money but funds are still low and after doing the mini me i suggest saving up for a b series or better especially in the k-series era we are entering. If you are set on doing one or the other though i would just go with the whole y8 swap. This would be easier than the mini me and more reliable.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Since when does a y8 head cost $200? That thing better be built or something. You don't need a VAFC or vtec switch to activate vtec, where the hell did you hear that bs from. You can get a p2p ecu for around $40 or less. And whats this about needing an adjustible cam gear? More bs. Labor for putting in a head is less than or equal to pulling the entire motor. And don't bring that reliability factor into this either. I've been running the y7/y8 mini me for 2+ years with absolutely no problems and now its boosted. You are pulling all this info out of your ***.
Since when does a y8 head cost $200? That thing better be built or something. You don't need a VAFC or vtec switch to activate vtec, where the hell did you hear that bs from. You can get a p2p ecu for around $40 or less. And whats this about needing an adjustible cam gear? More bs. Labor for putting in a head is less than or equal to pulling the entire motor. And don't bring that reliability factor into this either. I've been running the y7/y8 mini me for 2+ years with absolutely no problems and now its boosted. You are pulling all this info out of your ***.
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Re: mini or y8 (EK k kay)
then thats your opinion dont tell me what is bs and whats not im telling you what i had to do so since you dont know me or the setup i was running then you cant say anyones wrong and you are going to spend $100-200 on a head unless you buy some piece of **** with no cams or something and reliability is a factor since that head is not supposed to go on that block it may not be as reliable and i said you might have to get an ajustable cam gear (i did) dont hate on something i say especially since i am not stating facts i am telling you my experience and my opinion and what i did when i built my mini me
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Re: mini or y8 (dan89crxsi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dan89crxsi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">then thats your opinion dont tell me what is bs and whats not im telling you what i had to do so since you dont know me or the setup i was running then you cant say anyones wrong and you are going to spend $100-200 on a head unless you buy some piece of **** with no cams or something and reliability is a factor since that head is not supposed to go on that block it may not be as reliable and i said you might have to get an ajustable cam gear (i did) dont hate on something i say especially since i am not stating facts i am telling you my experience and my opinion and what i did when i built my mini me</TD></TR></TABLE>
well...some of it isn't opinion based, it's fact or fiction. The cost of a y8 head varies, and just because it's less expensive, that doesn't mean it's a piece of **** - you just have to shop around to get the best prices. $200 for a y8 head is on the high side, but if it's in excellent shape, that might be worth it. Secondly, a "new" ECU is the way to go as far as engaging VTEC. VAFC's are a waste of money, and an RPM activated switch is a very primitive way of engaging VTEC. You'll still have the same fuel curve and timing. You also don't need an adjustable cam gear unless you plan to do fine tuning. A stock cam gear is fine with a y7/y8 mini-me. Also, a y8 swap is NOT always more reliable than a mini-me. If you perform the head swap correctly, then you will have a very reliable engine. If you get a higher mileage y8 that somebody beat the **** out of, you'd be better off doing the mini-me.
One fact, though, is that you won't get a whole lot of power for your time and money, and if you can't find good deals on the parts, it's probably not worth it. Like SOHCejcivic said, it's basically a y8 when you're finished. Whether or not you should do a head swap is subjective and varies by case, so the decision is really up to you. Just do some more research.
well...some of it isn't opinion based, it's fact or fiction. The cost of a y8 head varies, and just because it's less expensive, that doesn't mean it's a piece of **** - you just have to shop around to get the best prices. $200 for a y8 head is on the high side, but if it's in excellent shape, that might be worth it. Secondly, a "new" ECU is the way to go as far as engaging VTEC. VAFC's are a waste of money, and an RPM activated switch is a very primitive way of engaging VTEC. You'll still have the same fuel curve and timing. You also don't need an adjustable cam gear unless you plan to do fine tuning. A stock cam gear is fine with a y7/y8 mini-me. Also, a y8 swap is NOT always more reliable than a mini-me. If you perform the head swap correctly, then you will have a very reliable engine. If you get a higher mileage y8 that somebody beat the **** out of, you'd be better off doing the mini-me.
One fact, though, is that you won't get a whole lot of power for your time and money, and if you can't find good deals on the parts, it's probably not worth it. Like SOHCejcivic said, it's basically a y8 when you're finished. Whether or not you should do a head swap is subjective and varies by case, so the decision is really up to you. Just do some more research.
#10
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Re: mini or y8 (SOHCejcivic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHCejcivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mini me on y7 IS a y8. the blocks are identical. the only difference is the head.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wrong...Y7 + VTEC HEAD: more compression, more HP's guaranteed in dynoJet!
D16Y8 (EK EK Hatch):15.8
D16Y7 Vtec (EK Hatch): 15.0
Same condition, same tires (toyo R888), same wheels (rota 15")....
Wrong...Y7 + VTEC HEAD: more compression, more HP's guaranteed in dynoJet!
D16Y8 (EK EK Hatch):15.8
D16Y7 Vtec (EK Hatch): 15.0
Same condition, same tires (toyo R888), same wheels (rota 15")....
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Re: mini or y8 (Real Ek4)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Real Ek4 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wrong...Y7 + VTEC HEAD: more compression, more HP's guaranteed in dynoJet!</TD></TR></TABLE>
that is true, but the gain isn't significant enough to make a noticable difference (it will barely be 10:1)
that is true, but the gain isn't significant enough to make a noticable difference (it will barely be 10:1)
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Re: mini or y8 (ddd4114)
yeah i agree that if you can find everything you need for good prices than it may be worth it and also I strongly agree that buying the vtec ecu is the best way to go. I used a rpm activating switch cause im cheap and it was definately a waste of money because i eventually bought the ecu anyway for better performance and about the timing gear for some reason i could not get my timing to be on after the head swap so I opted for a cam gear for easier and more convenient tuning. My main point of my posts was to say exactly what you said that for your time and money i dont think the power gains you will get are worth it
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Re: mini or y8 (dan89crxsi)
i just did the mini me swap today and the ideal kinda crappy and i go to drive it and i give it gas and it take a long time to get going would the hafe a tooth of do that
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Re: mini or y8 (94dxcivicriblack)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94dxcivicriblack »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would the hafe a tooth of do that </TD></TR></TABLE>
yes
yes
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Re: mini or y8 (SOHCejcivic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHCejcivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mini me on y7 IS a y8. the blocks are identical. the only difference is the head.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats wrong too, the y8 vtec block is balanced
thats wrong too, the y8 vtec block is balanced
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