midorigreenmobi

Hello all, honda noob here. I just did a d16z6 mini me swap on my d15b. Having trouble with high fluctuating idle.

I replaced the cam gear with a y8 and set the timing marks even with the head plane. Set the crank pulley to the furthest mark to the right on the pointer. Jumped the connector and set the timing, to the furthest timing crank pulley mark to the right, again to the pointer.

Now presuming this is all correct, i can't find any vacuum leaks, or any other problems other than one. The p28 ecu I got is chipped. So I tried swapping out my p28 with my original p06. When I did, everything was good, except for the check engine light of course. I need to get my ride back on the road asap. So what i'm asking, do you think the chipped p28 is mapped out for another setup thats not doing right with mine? Did I set up my timing properly? And if the ecu is the problem, can i drive my car with the p06 until I get another ecu without messing up my car? Thanks for any and all help.

nub

With the head (if it still has the Z6 cam) and block the Y8 cam gear is correct. When setting the mechanical timing you use the mark at 7 oclock though, not the head surface.

What you described for the ignition timing sounds wrong if I understand you. You want to shoot for the middle of the three marks clustered together to the left of the TDC mark that's by itself.

For the ecu depending on what's on the "chip" it could be your problem. Most of these are generic base tunes that are junk.

Something you can do to revert it back to stock. On the board next to the chip is a spot marked J1, it should have a jumper across the two terminals. Cutting this reverts it back to the stock program.

0MOTORVATIONS

iTrader: (1)

Why did you choose to use a Y8 cam gear ??? I believe you have a mechanical timing issue there. Switch back to the Z6 cam gear (assuming you have the Z6 camshaft) and use the D15B timing belt. A chipped ECU is a very generic statement... since one cannot truly be sure what the programming is on the chip. The fact that the P06 idles the car better suggests that your programming is suspect.
The good news is that a "hunting" or high idle is not dangerous (just aggravating), so driving your car even if the issue isn't fixed has a reasonable margin of safety. Just don't hot rod it... chances are good that if the idle/part throttle programming is off, so is the full throttle... so don't romp on it until you have had the car TUNED. Also, a regular stock P28 may work ok for the short term if you have access to one.

nub

When you put a 1.6 head on a 1.5 block the shorter 1.5 deck height retards the mechanical cam timing. OBD1 and OBD2 D series cams are indexed different by 4.75*. To compensate for the deck height difference of the 1.5...with a Z6 cam you use a Y series gear and with a Y series cam you use the PM3 cam gear. It's the cam, not the head that matters.

midorigreenmobi

Yes. For all my research, I've found that the y8 cam gear is needed for that change in deck height. It does have the same amount of teeth, but is alittle larger around to make up for that little over 4 degrees. My problem with hitting that middle mark is my distributer runs out before i can hit it, If i needed to set my cam up at the offset, which is probably only 1 tooth, would it make that big of a difference in the mechanical timing? And also, that rotation brings my idle higher than how i have it now.

midorigreenmobi

Also my p28, the chip is removable, if i remove it, would it put it back to stock?

nub

The two gears have the same number of teeth and are the same diameter. The difference is in the location of the cams keyway relative to the horizontal TDC mark. If you were to lay the two on top of each other with the TDC marks matched you'd see the difference in the keyway location.

With a Z6 cam you set the mechanical timing like a Z6 using the mark at 7 o'clock to the upper rear covers pointer.

Start with correcting the mechanical timing as it has a direct effect on being able to set the ignition timing.

Setting the idle and mechanical timing go hand in hand. You have to have the idle speed right before you can set the ignition timing. If the ignition timing changes the idle you reajust the idle and recheck the timing. Rinse and repeat until both are correct.

nub

You have to remove or cut the J1 jumper to return it to stock.

midorigreenmobi

Alrighty then. I did like you said, I reset the cam gear to the 7'oclock position. Let it warm up, jumped the connector and set the timing to the center mark of the 3 next to each other. It was off very little once i did that. Unfortunatly, I get the same problems, high idle with a skip here and there, and a check engine light, also it wont give me codes when i put in the jumper. And again, I put in the p06, it runs fine at idle. But i dunno if i can drive it without you honda guys telling me it will be safe or not. Im debating on snipping that jumper on the ecu that you said. What do you all think? Thanks.

nub

If it runs fine on the P06 and like crap with the P28 and you can't even pull codes...find another ecu.

Clip the J1 jumper and see what it does, what do you have to loose. It either has a crap socketing job or the "tune" is junk. There are reputable companies that can fix it for you.

You can drive it on the P06. Just don't go romping around like Billy batshit, it sould run fine.

midorigreenmobi

Thanks for all your help nub. Yeah, for now at least Im gonna roll on the p06, delicately at least so I can get to work and back until I find another p28. I may try snipping the jumper, but it won't be today. I've had enough fun for one day. Thanks again.