phelpsj2

i have a d16y5 im swapping the y8 head on the hx block. What is everything i should need? will the distributor work from the y5 head? will the intake manifold and everything be able to be reused temporarily from the y5 head?

SantaAnaFerio

Honda D series info:

The Honda D engine is used in a variety of compact Honda models, most commonly the Honda Civic, but also used in the Integra, Logo, CRX, Stream and others. Displacement ranges between 1.2 L and 1.7 L, and the engine is available in SOHC and DOHC versions. Some SOHC models are equipped with VTEC. Power range started from 62 hp (currently the smallest engine uses a 1.4 L 90 hp engine, code D14A4) to 135 hp. The D-series was introduced in 1984 and ended production in 2005 with the introduction of the 8th generation Honda Civic.

Hot Rodding the D series 101

Although the availability of used D-series engines at low prices makes it somewhat popular among those who modify it for high performance (as well as a popular item for swapping into earlier or less powerful Civics for an instant and trouble free power upgrade), the unmodified engine won't survive quite as much power enhancement by use of such external modifications as turbochargers, superchargers, or nitrous oxide as the more powerful, somewhat more robust, and much more expensive B-series; the Achilles heel of the D-series seems to be the connecting rods, which will withstand a substantial and noticeable increase in power up to a certain point, but will break if that limit is exceeded. Generally, a D-series motor can handle up to about 200 bhp. Of course, the connecting rods and other internal parts can be replaced with more durable aftermarket parts which will survive almost any amount of power desired, but some people choose to swap to a B-series motor instead in order to avoid the potential risks of engine building. In all practicality though, the B series is much more expensive to swap in than most D-series engine builds and forced induction or nitrous combined. The D-series also has the ability to swap some parts between different motors and among some B-series parts as well.

High compression OEM pistons are a quick way to gain horsepower in a naturally aspirated motor. All D-series motors run the same bore (75 mm) however, most factory motor variations (i.e. d16a1, d15b7, d16y7) have used a different piston compression height as well as a different dome or dish. In general, the older D motors have a higher compression height and a larger combustion chamber which create around a 9.1:1 - 9.4:1 compression ratio from the factory. The newer varients have slightly lower compression height combined with a much smaller combustion chamber to create a compression ratio of 9.4:1 - 9.9:1. Now if you combine a older d16 motor's piston with that of a newer d16 head you can end up with a compression ratio like 10.78:1 with no other work(i.e. D16A1 piston, D16A6 head). There are a few websites that have compression ratio calculators for Honda motors.

·D15, D16, and D17 cranks all have different main bearing diameters.

·D16 and D17 rods all have the same major dimensions. The D15 rod is shorter (in general) and has a smaller bearing size, although the wrist pin bore is the same.

·D15Z1 and D15B motors have a rod that is the same length as a D16. Other then the rod length the rest of the bottom end is D15 spec (i.e. rod and crank bearings).

·The B18A/B Rod has the same bearing bore as a D16. It is 0.044" wider, so the rod has to be shaved down for use in a D16/17. The wrist pin bore is larger so a conventional D15/16/17 piston can only be used with a bushing in the rod.

·There is a D16 motor that runs on compressed natural gas (96-98 Civic GX). The pistons from that motor are 12.5:1 compression. The wrist pin bore is the same as the B18B rod for years 96-98 only.

Mini Me:

One of the most popular and effective methods of achieving greater power from a D-series motor is replacing the cylinder head with one from a more powerful D-series motor. This is usually done between D16A6 and D16Z6 or D16Y7 and D16Y8 engines. The Z6 and Y8 heads are VTEC (Variable Valve Timing and Lift Electronic Control) equipped, and increase horsepower significantly over stock levels. This operation is known as a "Mini Me" or partial swap. Mini Me's are popular because they offer a substantial performance upgrade, as well as introducing VTEC, to the motor at a relatively low cost.

SantaAnaFerio

List of Parts:
Required:
D16Z6 Cylinder Head (Including distributor cap, valve cover, plugs/wires, VTEC solenoid, etc)
D16Z6 or D16Y8 Head Gasket
P28 ECU
D16Z6 Timing Belt
Wire and plug for VTEC oil pressure switch

Optional:
D16Z6 Intake Manifold
D16Z6 Exhaust Manifold
*If you remove your manifolds, make sure you get new gaskets

Recommended:
NEW OEM-
Water Pump (for the block you are using)
Spark Plugs (EX D16Y8)
Spark Plug Wires
Valve Cover Gasket
Distributor cap and rotor

phelpsj2

thanks for the info. i plan on boostin gin the future no more than 10 psi. What should i upgrade so my motor is reliable

delsolo95

[QUOTE=SantaAnaFerio;40979904]Honda D series info:

The Honda D engine is used in a variety of compact Honda models, most commonly the Honda Civic, but also used in the Integra, Logo, CRX, Stream and others................QUOTE]

hey the crx is in the civic family....i gotta rep that with three crx's Civic Renaissance X

SantaAnaFerio

D-Series Engine Building Notes



Using LS Rods in a D series:

The crank ends of the LS rods and D series are same size around at 1.890" (48mm). The crank end bore width needs to be milled to match the D16 crank rod journals. Shave .022" off each side of the crank end of the rod.
The piston end bore needs to be bushed to match the D16 piston's smaller pin size. The pin on the LS pistons is 0.826" (21mm), the pin on the D16 pistons is 0.748" (19mm). You need the custom made aluminum-bronze bushing with a width of 0.786, ID. 0.748, OD. 0.827 +(over) three thousands due to the bushing will be pressed in the small-end of the LS rods, so the bushing won't come out of the hole. Crower sells these for around $40 a set.

B16A Rods matched with non-US Supra 1G-GTE pistons:

I calculated the following #'s for this combo
Piston volume = -7cc dish
Compression height = 33mm
Rod length = 134mm

Pro's of this setup = Strong B16 rods and forged Supra pistons

This is information has been gathered from Turbopanda ( username on www.honda-tech.com ). He sells this set-up for about $400.

The shorter B16 rods with a D16 stroke will result in a 1.49 rod/stroke ratio, down from the stock D16 1.52 R/S ratio.

The Toyota pistons' height make up for the length of the rod, that's why it’s still usable in a D series engine.

1G-GTE Supra pistons are 75mm. B16A rods are a lot stronger than D16 rods, and can handle boost way better. The rods are modified in order to accept the Toyota pistons. Installation is as simple as replacing your pistons and rods. The Crankshaft needs no modification, although the bottom of the short block will need to be notched a little so that there is enough clearance for the B16A rods



Using Susuki Vitara Pistons:

Need to get them out of the 98-99 Suzuki Vaitra 1.6 sohc (also used in some Suzuki Esteems)
code of piston = G16
NOT Forged
Have floating style wrist pins.
Can use stock wrist pins.
75mm bore (available os)

PDN 98-00 GX Pistons With LS Rods:

The crank ends of the LS rods and D series are same size at 1.890"
Shave .022" of each side of the crank end of the rod.
With GX pistons, you don't need the small end bushed
they just press on. (the GX piston has a 21mm wrist pin)
GX Standard size piston part number = 13010-PDN-A00
GX Standard piston ring set number= 13011-PDN-A01

PMS 01-03 GX:

These pistons have the standard size D series wrist pins, but have a low 27mm compression height. Ironically this low compression height coupled with 137mm VX rods in a D15 make an interesting combo...

Head Milling & Timing:
For every .012" (some say .010") shaved from the head the cam timing is retarded 1 deg

Using a D17 crank in a D16:

D17 Crank = 94.4 mm stroke
D17 Rods = 137mm
D17 Pistons = 27mm compression height

You need to use the D17 oil pump because the snout on the crank is much thicker then the y8 crank. No problem because it actually bolts on like a champ. Problem, there is no accommodation for a dip stick, the y8 pump has a hole in it for the dipstick the d17's pump does not.

The D17 rods are thinner at the crank end than D16 rods, so some machining may be needed depending on the rod you use.


How to clay for valve clearance:

http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/claymotor/clay.php

How to CC your piston's dish or dome volume:

http://www.rehermorrison.com/engineCalc/pistonDome.htm

How to CC your head:

http://www.yarchive.net/car/compress...o_measure.html
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/73-77ag/tech/checkcc/
http://www.totallytriumph.net/spitfi...our_head.shtml



D15 Tech:

When putting other pistons in a D15 you can use a set of VX rods (the calculator assumes you will be using them) effectively increasing the compression height of any D series piston by 3mm. The D15 rods have a 45mm crank end.( D16 = 48mm )

MR Bone's A6 Cam swap how to (for putting a CRX Si cam into a D15) :

BEFORE cam swap, set your ignition timing at 16 BTDC, the center mark. Bring motor to TDC, swap cams. Adjust lash (.006I/.008E for me) and start motor. Idle will be funky high or low, depending on which way you installed the cam (retarded or advanced).

Let engine warm to normal temps, then use cam gear to adjust IGNITION timing back to 16 BTDC at same rpm as you checked it BEFORE the cam swap. Once you get it right, your cam is now ZEROED. The cam GEAR should read 4-5 degrees Advanced/Retard depending on install.


About Throttle Bodies:

B series and H series throttle bodies bolt on to D series intake manifolds. Most D series TB's are 56mm while the B series are 60mm. This is a very cheap effective upgrade. Note: You should port match the intake manifold to the bigger TB.

How to Port Match Your Intake Manifold:

Basically, just take your TB gasket, place it on the intake manifold, use a marker and trace along the edges. Then dremel away.

landon2992

Im about to do a mini me swap on my y7 block using a y8 head. Do I need to buy and install a knock sensor?

SantaAnaFerio

Ya if your doing a mini-me swap its be best to get a complete head with everything on it.