v8killaz

ok guys i had the map sensor wires bare and just had them laying on the engine harness and they touched the engine for a quick second. these were the map sensor wires.

i try to crank no start no fuel pump priming. i checked and the 7.5amp backup fuse was blown i replaced it nothing different.

right now i can crank it all day but no fuel pump wont prime or turn on.
the fuses are good from what i checked. plugged a diff. ecu and same thing.
what could have happened
i would think it shorted so fuse blew and after replacing all would be good but now the car is dead.

Former User

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v8killaz

sorry was in a big rush

cars a 94 civic with obdI harness
obdI gsr engine

cel codes are
o2 sensor
vtec
and before map was going off i think it was wired in wrong

ran fine before but idles high right after 3 seconds when car was started which had something do to the map because it would throw only o2 and vtec but once started it throws map after 3 seconds when ecu recognizes its wrong or bad

Former User

In ON(III), does the starter crank the engine?

Besides the fuel pump not priming, do you also lack spark at the plugs?

Is CEL code 0 currently thrown?

Have you checked hood fuse 31 and dash fuse 24?

What was the original ECU and what did you swap in?

Jimster480

Dammit ron you beat me to it :/

v8killaz

car cranks fine
no i didnt check spark but will tday
cel code 0 is on i forgot to say that
i checked the fuses i believe but will check them today again
we were running it on a chipped p28 first gsr map
we switched to gsr obdI ecu(p72) and nothing different
solid engine light either way


ground on thermostat is good have not checked main relays

Jimster480

the light stays solid when your Service connector is jumped?

v8killaz

it stays solid when the servidce connector is not even in
i think a relay may have blown or something but i have no idea where to start
i dont know much about wiring

Jimster480

well it should be solid when the service connector is not jumped. It should only flash when you jump it.

v8killaz

doesnt flash at all, the abs will flash the cel light will not

Former User

Code 0 is defined as when the CEL remains on steady both WITH and WITHOUT the service connector jumped.

v8killaz

yeah so the main relay was not getting ignition power. i tapped into a ignition source and now it will start up

i have a new problem
car idles extremely low. i have to rev it to start it and warm it it will run when warm at like 400rpm or so.

its throwing codes for iacv and iat even when i plug either or in the cel is on for both is i mismatch them still

warmed car fully, reset codes about 20 times and still same codes.
im stuck now
the car is my cousins and he needs the car soon he has no other car. ive put his car before mine and it needs out

Former User

This most likely means you have a blown fuse. Did you properly check fuse 31 and 24?

v8killaz

yeah i checked every fuse about 3 times
every one even slightly related to them

and bro 24 is the srs unit

i checked the interior pgmfi fuse
and all the underhood fuses


getting back to what i am at now i have low idle and car starts right up and runs fuel spark is there relay clicks and works properly

Former User

The most important function of fuse 24 related to your problem is that it feeds power to the fuel pump via the main relay and ignition switch. If fuse 24 were blown, it would cause exactly the problem you were having. Your tapping into another ignition source is a Band-Aide fix that will likely eventually come back to bite you.

v8killaz

yeah i know its def. not something i do on a reg. basis
the dude needs the car badly hes driving it now. the weird part is
the car ran good in our obdIIa 97 civic
then we swapped it in the 93 civic with a reandowm obdI nonvtec harness and it wasnt throwing codes for iacv or iat. but threw code for map and it was idling very high and jumpy .instead of messing with it we switched back to the d16z6 obdI engine harness and now we got iat and iacv codes. we changed the map and that fixed the code for map sensor. but now the car idles very low. and unplugging iacv does nothing


but thanks you for that diagram like i said i checked every single fuse. very rarely i could have missed that one. Also the car wasnt getting spark or fuel when main relay was not getting switched power.

Former User

v8killaz

no iacv connectors are not swapped
i switched the to make sure no diference
i leave them unplugged no difference
notice this engine harness was the original one from the car and the car ran drove fine until engine blew.

ok ill check the fuse again to make sure i didnt miss it
for sure
today or tommarow
ill update

any other ideas on iat iacv
could it have gone bad the engine was stored for 2 months

v8killaz

well got the main relay worked out the ecu fuse was just acting up. for some reason it came loose and only works with the fuse tabs bent.

now the iacv and iat cel are still on. even though i fixed the iacv. the wiring was wrong for some odd reason and now it works and when warm it idles to about 1000 when i unplug it it idles at 600 when warm so it works as it shoudl have it wired to the ecu a9

but heres the ordeal the cel is still on for iacv when its working

Jimster480

then its probably not wired right again. Or make sure that the IACV is plugged in ebfore you start the car. Otherwise the CEL wont go off.

v8killaz

its wired right i checked the wire and it goes directly to the ecu the other wire is a power wire and it has 12 volts of power going in it. I have reset the codes plugged it in plugged it out i have no idea why its still on.
note the old engine harness did not trigger the iacv and iat codes. are iat and iacv somehow connected or not

Jimster480

no they arent. Did you check continuity between the plug under the hood and the pin under the dash (At ECU)?

v8killaz

no idea what you mean