JDMHATCHEG92

I had a LS with b18b1 and it was running fine, then i sent the car to get a b16 head installed theni got the car back and the oil light stays on when i turn on the car and then when i press the gas the oil light goes away when i am driving it drowns and the oil light flickers but barly but then it runs fine I dont know any more

95vxtealhatch

I hope you had someone with knowledge of an ls/vtec swap do your head swap. Last i checked you has to do a few things to make it work, like an external oil line or something, and something else im forgetting. I know ls/vtec is not a bolt of affair. Also did you get the correct ECU for your swap and or get it tuned?

JDMHATCHEG92

yes but what does have to do with the oil stayin on with idle then of when i press the gas

95vxtealhatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMHATCHEG92 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes but what does have to do with the oil stayin on with idle then of when i press the gas</TD></TR></TABLE>

That particular problem sounds like a failing oil pump or not enough oil psi at idle. when you rev it up oil pump produces more psi kicking the oil light off.

im interested to know if anyone else thinks its something else, like a loose wire or something.

JDMHATCHEG92

yes when i press on the gas the light shuts off

bump for help!??

JDMHATCHEG92

bump

riceburnerryan

im assuming your oil level has been checked?

DTA-Zombie

most likely it wasn't checked recently - bet he is a quart low

JDMHATCHEG92

now it stoped but vtec isnt kicking in

adams90crx@msn.com

i can help you with that you have a pressure switch in the side of your head could be bad or solenoid when it worked did it sometimes shut off but work when you restarted it?

adams90crx@msn.com

Your need to upgrade your oil pump to a vtec model also should swap your crank for a vtec model because of the higher rpms honda zero balances the vtec cranks bet the guy that swapped didn't know that so tell me the exact specifications of your swap what computer what year motor and head everything and your need a p28 computer to eliminate the knock sensor and you can also have it modified to ignore the sensor that shuts it off i have on for sale but tuned for your exact setup and it was a lower vtec it kicks in at like 3500 and has a 9000 rev limit thats why you need a balanced crank or your could lose a bearing find out what he swapped did he drill a line into the head on the back left if your looking for it the vtec kicks off when there not enought oil pressure use like a 97 type r oil pump flows better and at higher rpms an ls oil pump cant handle it when you replace parts on this motor you have to remember its a frankenstein

93egSLEEPER

you need to add some oil buddy. oil light+no vtec= low on oil and disaster if you drive it too much longer. the reason your oil light goes on and off is when you hit the gas you build oil pressure turning off the light but off throttle the pressure goes away triggering it to come back on. if its full of oil the whoever did your work didnt do the oil supply line correctly or didnt do the correct oil holes from the head and block.

Bserieskllr

Man it seems like everyone onthis site now that trys to give info on this site has no idea what there talking about, Check your oil, if your oil is low vtec wont engage, your giving us little to no info here to its hard to help. For all we know you could have just took the to some shop said here put this head on....we dont even know if you have an oil supply running to your head. How does the car run? sluggish? great? is it noisy?

93egSLEEPER

cool you said no one knows what they are talking about on this site then just restated and summarized what everone including me has posted. way to be smart guy ::fail::

Bserieskllr

I wasnt referring to you, I was asking for more info, and if you read some of the posts in this thread you feel stupider, as in the one a couple post up and its not just this thread ive read so many threads stating wrong info, but whatever you can hit me with the honda-tech fail.

93egSLEEPER

i agree some people said some dumb things but no need to get on here and start sayong everyone on the site is dumb... just some people dont have the knowledge to help out constructively

Bserieskllr

I mean come on i didnt know honda also put vtec on there crank? and since when do you have to swap cranks to make an ls/vtec work properly??? /I though most of the benefit was the 89mm stroke of the ls? maybe you didnt read all the posts?

93egSLEEPER

i saw those laughed at them and got past it so i could put what i know on the subject to use in maybe helping out. if we called out every dumb post on HT nothing would ever get fixed.

Bserieskllr

im not saying everone is dumb, im just saying i have seen alot of mis-informative posts, there are alot of smart people on this site much smarter then me, but it seems the ratio of dumb to smart people is growing.

Bserieskllr

anyways i dont wanna e-fight or anything about it i understand why you posted what you did and its cool, but whatever im over just got a lil fed up with the mis-information, anyways carry on, and give us more info!

93egSLEEPER

agreed. knucks. lets fix the issue. OP get us some pics or something... lets see the oil return and let us know what the shop did that did the work for you

geebs

Did the oil light flash before the head swap?
Did you use a ls/vtec conversion kit? like Golden Eagle?
Are there any oil leaks? Like from a oil sandwhich adapter to the head?
Usually when the oil light it flickering while at idle, its a bad pump. Usually, not always. But if it just started after the head swap, I'd think it'd have something to do with that. Was the oil feed port on the head tapped and plugged?
Edit: For the person that said you needed to upgrade to a VTEC oil pump, check the part numbers..