eg6_rick

Sorry if this is a long post. I swapped an OBD2 LS into my 93 CX hatch with OBD1 GSR wiring from a 94 GSR. Now when I turn the key to on position and start, the motor it cranks a couple times before running (the batt. light will flash once or twice if the car don't start, and i know its not the batt. cause its brand new and worked fine before the swap). When the car finally starts its running and idles low around 350-500 RPM, not even touching 1K line (if i gas it will stutter). After letting the car run for about 5-10 min the idle will slowly climb up to 1K. This happens every morning. And yes the CEL is on (because of OBD1 GSR ECU that i'm using). then the idling goes up-n-down, up-n-down, 1k-1.2k when i drive and stop at redlight. I don't know if this is because of the climate? weather? or the wire hardness i used from the GSR? or the IACV or watever that is on the TB? could it be the ECU? anyone here have any advice
BTW the LS has 45601 miles on it and heres what i did so far: 1) adjust timing 2)new MSD spark wires 3) using OBD1 dizzy 4)adjust idle screw 5) new O2 sensor for 4-2-1 DC header 6) chipped OB1 GSR ECU

h kid

I know exactly whats wrong with youre ls I had the same exact problem, the problem is your air to fuel ratio. when you moved the idle screw you mest the hole thing up. have it readjusted by a pro, or do wath i did, turn your car on disconect your map sensor take all the crap out of the idle screw if you havent already and turn it until your engine almost stalls then evers it and keep on givin it more air until it sound good{not to hi}then reconect your map sensor turn your car of and disconect your batery for a couple of minutes and restart and check it, if it goes up and down on a stop tihgten the screw if it stuters open the screw more Im posotive this will work. tell me how it went later?

eg6_rick

I did that too. But when i disconnect the MAP sensor, the motor just dies...WTF, is this suppose to happen?

eg6_rick

bump for more help

h kid

the engine dies because your idle screw is to low,open it up a little more and try it again once the map is of you can set the rpms with the idle screw, without the map interfearin

1slowhatchie

that reving up and down thing is ure fitv not ure idle screw so i wouldn't mess with the screw. it also could be low on radiator fluid too so check ure fluids

h kid

the reason I say this is because i had the same engine and the same problem, he said he adjusted the idle screw im guessing himself. i did the same thing and got the same problem the air to fuel ratio get mest up and its hard to reset but i did

eg6_rick

ok. but before even disconnecting the MAP sensor I already adjusted the screw to where its sitting at 1.3k, and when i disconnt the 3rd or 4th time it still dies, so are you saying that once i adjust to this 1.3K I can disconnt MAP sensor and disconnt batt? or just let sit for few mins and reconnt MAP and try adjusting idle again?? i already searched other threads and seemed not to help. h kid can you explain more detail (ie. 1. disconnt MAP 2. adjust idle screw 3...etc..) i appreciate all your help. any advice would do as long as i can get this swap to work.

abell

you have to use a 95 ls wiring horness or else you going to have problems because the gsr wiring horness has v-tec in it and the ls is non - vtec ok trust me

dantastic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by abell &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you have to use a 95 ls wiring horness or else you going to have problems because the gsr wiring horness has v-tec in it and the ls is non - vtec ok trust me</TD></TR></TABLE>

it really shouldn't matter. i would have just used the stock CX wiring harness. i have the stock CX harness on my b18b, and it plugged in 100%.

pull the codes from the ECU. u should only be getting vtec codes. if you're getting other codes, you can start from there.

when setting the idle with the idle screw, you unplug the EACV NOT the MAP sensor.

eg6_rick

ahhhh...this is stressing me out...dantastic--&gt; How did you get the alternator and dizzy to work with stock CX wires? or did you use your CX alt and dizzy on the LS motor??and how did you get the O2 sensor to connect to LS motor if its mounted on tranny with only one wire?? cause i used the same alt. that was on the LS with my GSR wires. more info please..

abell

the cx wiring horness should plug up to the alt and dizzy

h kid

from Haynes acura integra automotive repair manual{troubleshooting} Engine lopes while idling or idles erratically- possibilities (1)vacuum leakage(2)leaking egr valve(3)air filter clogged(4)fuel pump not delivering sufficient fuel to the fuel injection system(5)leaking head gasket(6)timing belt and/or pulleys worn(camshaft lobes worn(7)loose or misadjusted air idle (8)clogged coolant by pass in throttle body, check all this stuff.sorry about the map sensor thing I meant the iac(idle air control) im almost positive that its either your idle screw or your coolant by pass. you said you adjusted your idle screw so did i and after i did that ihad the same problem so i re adjusted my idle screw and checked the trhotle body coolant by pass and it was clogged I fixed both of them at the same time so i don't know what was the exact prob. your iac has a coolant hose running from the throttle body to the engine its rite underneath the TB two aluminum tubes take the TB of and blow threw the coolant tubes if it flows it works if it doesn't there's your prob to adjust your idle screw --(1) if the idle speed is to low or to high, disconnect the ectricalconnector from the iac(2)turn the screw to obtain the specified idle speed(3)plug in the iac and remove the 7.5 amp hazard or backup fuse from the underhood block for ten sec this will clear any troubleshooting codes from the ecms memory(4)turn of the engine and restart to recheck adjustment

eg6_rick

thanks a bunch h kid. i'll post and update as soon as i fix that idling.

eg6_rick

ok. i bleeded coolant and radiator, cleaned IAVC and set idle to factory setting. Still CEL is on. Then i burrowed one of my buddies OBD1 p75 ECU and used it instead of the chipped OBD1 GSR ECU i had on earlier. when i checked for codes, i got code 16 (which is fuel injectors), i realize that when i plugged the OBD1 hardness into the OBD2 injectors that originally came with the motor i didnt get it to plug in tight, all i did was shaved the side clips on the injectors to make the injector plugs fit into the hardness, my question is: How will this effect the injectors and throw a code 16? and does it even make a difference what injectors i use or am i suppose to use OB1 injectors with OBD1 wire hardness when doing an OBD2---&gt; OB1 swap? help anyone?