LS swap crank no start
#1
LS swap crank no start
I searched before I posted and didn't really find anything of use, so here's the run down. I've got a turbo'd LS hatch, spun the bearings in the old motor that was a B18B1 running an OBD2 harness to an OBD1 ECU using a jumper. Put in a B18A1 and swapped all of my OBD2 part to it to make it compatible. New motor is in and ready to go but when I crank it it doesn't fire. It's getting fuel pressure at the regulator but no spark. Cars been sitting outside for a few months. I've tried another dizzy that works (I drove the car over and pulled it off). The weird thing is I checked for spark about 3 months ago and was getting a good spark but the motor was out of time. Since putting it in time it hasn't been sparking. Anyone have any ideas as to why I'm not getting anything now? First thing on the short list is wires but i wouldn't think all 4 would foul out from sitting a few months. Help a brotha out?
#4
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Re: LS swap crank no start
Watch out! I'm about to quote something!
TIMING: Check it first. It's the most non-invasive of the tests mentioned. If the timing checks out, you just verified that you have "a" spark to the #1 plug. What about the others? So just move that inductive pick-up to the next cylinder to see if a spark is there. This does not tell you if the spark is hot enough though. At the same time, take off the oil cap to see if the cams are moving. Just a quick visual to know the timing belt didn't snap and that the cam is turning the distibutor.
SPARK: To check for a hot spark, I'd go with a Thexton 404. If the coil was weak, it might be able to jump the standard spark gap in free air, but put some compressed air/fuel between the gap and it becomes a little harder. So this guy allows you to adjust the gap to your liking, while keeping things safe and hands-free. And using a multimeter to measure the coils primary resistance (or secondary) isn't exactly accurate, nor does it show the whole picture like a scope and inductive amp probe would....but it's better than nothing. If a couple windings in the secondary became shorted internally, your meter would still measure a lot of resistance leaving you thinking it's in spec but a scope would show something different.
COMPRESSION: MAKE SURE TO UNPLUG THE DISTRIBUTOR! Yes, it was stated. I'm just restating it, because it's important. Typically people remove their plug wires, set them aside and then remove the plugs. The problem is, you've got no load for the coil if you start cranking the engine over. And if the distributor is plugged in and it's got the coil charged, when it tries to make a spark and release that voltage, it's going to go somewhere. How often do you see threads "I just did a compression test and now my car won't start back up."? It's not an instant killer of the coil, but for older coils that have some miles on them, it's easier prey. Also make sure to hold the throttle WIDE OPEN. You'll get lower numbers without doing that.
FUEL: As stated - get a fuel pressure gauge. It'll tell a majority of the story for sure. You can go a step further and get a set of noid lights to verify that the injectors are actually being triggered though.
Important Notes: Don't expletive around with 3rd party ignition parts. Just stick to OEM. As juevi said, others may work, but they've also been the continued cause of a persons problem...or the source of a new problem. Coils, ICM's, whole distributors - I'd def shy away from AutoZone and the like.
To round out the tools, add a meter...and a Helms.
SPARK: To check for a hot spark, I'd go with a Thexton 404. If the coil was weak, it might be able to jump the standard spark gap in free air, but put some compressed air/fuel between the gap and it becomes a little harder. So this guy allows you to adjust the gap to your liking, while keeping things safe and hands-free. And using a multimeter to measure the coils primary resistance (or secondary) isn't exactly accurate, nor does it show the whole picture like a scope and inductive amp probe would....but it's better than nothing. If a couple windings in the secondary became shorted internally, your meter would still measure a lot of resistance leaving you thinking it's in spec but a scope would show something different.
COMPRESSION: MAKE SURE TO UNPLUG THE DISTRIBUTOR! Yes, it was stated. I'm just restating it, because it's important. Typically people remove their plug wires, set them aside and then remove the plugs. The problem is, you've got no load for the coil if you start cranking the engine over. And if the distributor is plugged in and it's got the coil charged, when it tries to make a spark and release that voltage, it's going to go somewhere. How often do you see threads "I just did a compression test and now my car won't start back up."? It's not an instant killer of the coil, but for older coils that have some miles on them, it's easier prey. Also make sure to hold the throttle WIDE OPEN. You'll get lower numbers without doing that.
FUEL: As stated - get a fuel pressure gauge. It'll tell a majority of the story for sure. You can go a step further and get a set of noid lights to verify that the injectors are actually being triggered though.
Important Notes: Don't expletive around with 3rd party ignition parts. Just stick to OEM. As juevi said, others may work, but they've also been the continued cause of a persons problem...or the source of a new problem. Coils, ICM's, whole distributors - I'd def shy away from AutoZone and the like.
To round out the tools, add a meter...and a Helms.
#5
Re: LS swap crank no start
The car is in TDC so it's not a timing issue, it has a normal crank speed for being in time. I know that it's got compression because for 1. I did a tester on it and got good numbers back, 2. if it had no compression it would crank fast 3. I turned the crank by hand and went through all the strokes. I quadruple checked my grounds and sanded down the contacts. The only logical thing I could think of would be maybe the dizzy isn't getting power. How would I check that out.
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#9
Honda-Tech Member
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Re: LS swap crank no start
An old trick I used was to put a Philips screw driver into one of the plug wires one by one for each cylinder respectively , have a helper turn the key in the ignition to the last click as if you were going to start it, keep the screw driver about an inch away from the valve cover and you should get a spark if you don't then there goes your possible culprit, also make sure your screw driver has an insulated handle on it and not bare metal, it's common sense but with the world now a days you never know , good luck!
#11
Honda-Tech Member
Re: LS swap crank no start
is the firing order correct? have you actually tested for spark? even if the dizzy is good, other components could be bad like plugs or wires. go down the line and check for spark at each component.
#13
Honda-Tech Member
Re: LS swap crank no start
no but if none of them are getting spark, then move "up" the system to the dizzy. you say you have already replaced it, so go further "up". is the dizzy getting power? check the coil for battery voltage, should be a blk/ylw wire
#15
Honda-Tech Member
#16
Re: LS swap crank no start
I did lol. I'm not getting power to the dizzy. It's gotta be something small. I know it. I'm getting so much closer. The cars been down for a year and a half and it's pissing me off lol.
#17
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Re: LS swap crank no start
no battery power to the black/yellow wire means ignition switch. but is it really? try to trace that wire to the ignition switch. maybe a rat chewed on it. you never know. thats y its a bad idea to leave cars sitting. or instead of tracing it put a dmm to the black/yellow wire at the ignition switch if you get power there the switch is good. all you have to do is find the break in that wire
Last edited by jdmcertified909; 03-30-2012 at 01:47 PM.
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