FrontwheelENT

Sup, I have a 96 EK. I was installing my rear coilovers and by mistake I snapped the head off the wrong bolt on the control arm. Instead of taking off the strut bolt, I took the last bolt closest to the drums and the head of the bolt snapped off. Now the bolt is stuck in the bushing and it dosent have a head. Any idea on how I could get it outta there? It's not safe to drive like this I know. I circled the area where the bolt is in the picture. Anyone know a shop that has the proper tools to get the bolt outta there? I been to one and they told me I need a whole new control arm. Is this true? Im located in the Queens, NY area.

MrShoeBoy

Can you get in there with a punch and a BFH and pound it through? If its seized inside the bushing sleeve you gotta drop the whole arm and press or burn out the bushing and put in a new bushing with a new bolt. No matter what its going to suck. Good Luck!

kwijibodavid

yea need to pull the hole thing out need to apply heat to get the bolt out which will burn the bushing look around for a raplacment might have to go aftermarket

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Reciprocating saw to cut the bolt and get the LCA out and a drill for the rest of the bolt stuck inteh welded nut on the other side.

FrontwheelENT

But the bolt has thread on it, how would I drill it out?

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Huh? Cut of the bolt with a reciprocating saw. Either drill the remainder of the bolt out or cut off the welded nut.

FrontwheelENT

The part of the bolt thats stuck inside is threaded

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

So? I don't see the problem. I had to drill out this same bolt a few months ago when I snapped it off.

FrontwheelENT

I guess ima try that then... any other suggestions? Also, drill it out using what bit?

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Maybe you're concerned with saving the threads in the welded nut? Don't be. Knock that welded nut off and replace it with a loose nut.

FrontwheelENT

What kind of bolt do I replace it with?

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

A metric one. If you check the parts diagram you can figure out the thread size/length of the orig bolt. Or go to Honda and get the correct bolt. You'll likely need a new bushing as well.

I might add a lock washer underneath the nut as well, for added security, but for the most part it should be fine, or - even better - get a posi-lock nut.

Can he not get the bolt out by just grinding off the weld nut? That's where the thread is so wouldn't that work? What advantage is there to sawing it off first like you said?

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

If he has access to a grinder it would make short work of all of it. I had no grinder at the time. Whatever tool you have to make it easier.

beecee18

FrontwheelENT

Anymore suggestions before I take my car to a shop?

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Why? You can do the work yourself. Are you actually planning on DRIVING it like that?

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

Yes: Buy a $35 angle grinder and do it yourself. It will cost you a lot less than taking it to the shop!

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

FYI: A discovery I made - the loose nut you use can be salvaged from the shock tower nuts that hold the shock in place (from a junker vehicle, of course). Same thread pitch and diameter. And easy to find.

Kylehugo

Not to make your day worse, but this just happened to me, and it ended up costing 700$, in drill bits, new bolts from Honda, black works LCAs and a new bilstein shock b/c I edged the bottom of mine... Gl

furious94ls

^^^^ You aren't done spending money either. You will have to replace those crapworks lca's very soon.

Deetz

This is a common issue with 4 out of 5 cars, it's not that big a deal. As many have mentioned, cut the old bolts out (yes, it's a pain in the butt!)

Then, do the "smart" thing and buy brand new oem bolts and rear lower control arms....should cost about $200. I would never ever waste my time with aftermarket LCA's.....there is ZERO performance to be gained, and often they are far inferior in quality to the oem arms, lasting much much less in time. Add to that, if you ever get into an accident in the rear end, your car will take far more damage to the suspension, as they don't "give" out in the same way an oem arm does.

Now, get down and dirty and cut those old bolts out!!

Kylehugo

Meh, they're probably fine, I'm not worrying about them

beecee18

Here in california we just simply unbolt them

ej1 rep

You can re use the old LCAs and just get new bushings pressed in for cheap. I think the bolts are like 8 bucks a piece from Honda.

Do it yourself, this is a kinda of like right of passage for all Honda Guys lol.

Dc4LsTeG

iTrader: (7)

Lol x2.. I've never had this problem