handa

I don't know about you guys, but i've broken about 5 of these bolts already..out of 3 cars that i've worked on. these b!tches break easily because they are so old.

anyways, now i'm having problem with my car:

full view on what we are looking at:


as you can see the bolt broke on the outside, near the brake rotors/calipers assembly. It screws on through the LCA, and onto other side of the assembly.


a little visual...the remainings of the bolt lays secretly in there


I've tried CarX and other auto shops around here and they say they cannot do it. CarX told me that the only way to fix it is to get a new assembly. I know I can get this out somehow. Any ideas?


Modified by handa at 12:22 PM 5/17/2005

rukawa1one

torch it, and it may get loose enough for u to bang it out

komat

if those are stock strut
just get another one

take out the whole LCA with the strut
grind the welded nut off on the strut
then i hammer it out

rukawa1one

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by komat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if those are stock strut
just get another one

take out the whole LCA with the strut
grind the welded nut off on the strut
then i hammer it out
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think the one that broke isnt the one on the strut, but the one next to it which attaches the LCA to the brake assembly. But he does have the right idea, take the whole thing out with the strut, so it is easier to work on. Try torching it, and if u melt the bushing in the process, big deal, get another one, its not expensive.

Deemeetree

Cut it at both sides with a sawzall. Cut the tab where the LCA bolt threads onto the strut from the bottom of the strut. Get another bolt and nut that threads onto the bolt. Then, you never have to worry about it seizing again.

JDMisGOOD

I had a customers car come in like this...



I just replaced the trailing arm and rear lca. i had them laying around the shop.

EK4..

same thing happen to my car, i just drill it out, and just get a new control arm, and go to honda dealer and ask for the bolt it's cost me 6.50 just for that bolt

fasthatchb18c1

I would torch it as well cause you bushing looks shot anyway

litterbox

Can you actually lower the lca to get it away from the brake assembly? Do that then take out the whole lca and just get new ones cause your bushings are rusted to **** and you need new ones anyway.

BeeEK9R

same thing happen to my friend. wat we did is cut the nut that weld on using a grinder. once we got that out we use a punch which look like a metal pencil.place the punch in the hole an hammer the bolt out. when it out buy a new bolt and look for the nut that fit the bolt "make sure is heavy duty" and their u go. u can weld the nut on i u like. i doesnt matter

BeeEK9R

lube is next time or wd40

The DX Rex

did something similar, i just baught aftermarket LCA's and had bolts lying around so i swapped them out. you can get omni power LCA for $110 shipped of passwordjdm or Megan's Racing for $95 shipped of ebay.

pancake56

yeah, this bolt was a pain. even an impact gun will not get it off if your bushings are real old. its not that its tight, its the rubber bushing is forgiving when you apply torque to it. so there is bascially, nothing to hold the bolt down, all you doing is stretching the rubber more and more. hacksaw the other end off and press out the bushing or torch it. I would torch it cause the bushing is useless now plus presses are hard to come by. LCAs new oem run about 70 bucks.

Thateguhate

iTrader: (2)

samething here, I had to change out my rear LCA's because of it. When its that rusted in there, the metal surrounding the bushing and bolt causes it to stick from the rust meaning theres no way to get it out.

Made 4 trips to honda, and about $100 in bushings and bolts before a figured it out as just a side note to you..

I highly recommend getting the Megan Racing LCA setup for $100 shipped w/ all the bushings. There is a seller on ebay i got mine from. Wanrrenty papers and all. Goodluck though!

handa

actually i am in the process of putting the SRR LCA's and KYB AGX/H&R springs on.

that's the reason i'm messing with it in the first place haha.

the other side already in

TurboTagTeam

Drill that **** out. Then weld a new nut to the trailing arm for the new bolt to screw into.

Thateguhate

iTrader: (2)

Thats a good hour of work unless you have a powerful drill, I used a high powered sander and sliced off both ends of the bolt and slid it out. Kind of a pain in the *** with an ABS line right there.


Did the LCA's Come with bushings...if they did I have an extra bolt. You could have since I got mine in and I bought extras from honda, just gotta find them.

if they didnt then you gotta get the shock absorber bushing, and the other smaller one from honda, and you can just get the bolt there. Like $5 or $10 cant remember.

ironlung78

you can buy the bolts from honda for about $2 a piece..
the bushing where your shock is attached to the LCA is shot also.. Time to either upgrade the bushings or buy new LCA's like someone previously mentioned. IF not your gonna hear all kinds of noises coming from where that shock meets the LCA..

hybrid_vtec

This happen to me the other day! A drill and a pair of vice-grips solved my problem, but it was a pain in the ***!

Thateguhate

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sidesi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can buy the bolts from honda for about $2 a piece..
the bushing where your shock is attached to the LCA is shot also.. Time to either upgrade the bushings or buy new LCA's like someone previously mentioned. IF not your gonna hear all kinds of noises coming from where that shock meets the LCA..</TD></TR></TABLE>

omg take this guys advice, I had to roll on my old bushings while waiting for my LCA's to come in and the squeaking is a pain in the ***!!!!!!!!!!!!

I highly recommend energy bushings over the honda ones. Summit racing has them. Im using the ones that came with my Megan Racing LCA's the rubber is wrapped with aluminum so I know it wont rust like the honda ones.

Why they used metal....? Everyone has problems with these bolts. I did on both sides of my EG

CivicShifter

i have the same setup of agx and h&r as handa. but i crashed my car. now i have to replace my my whole front suspension