PinoyDelS0l

Alright ladies and gents, well as i was driving my del sol today on the long island expressway in NY. I hit a slope on the highway and my lower control arm fell off my car. The bushing is still there, but i need to know what bolt and screw size do i need? Its the part that connect the LCA onto my cars wheel. Not the suspension part. Please help i just need to know the bolt and nut size i need that goes through the bushing. Thanks.

ian_b16

the bolt that holds the lcs into the trailing arm has no nut. its threaded into the trailing arm its self.
but the bolt should be 14mm

k0rupt_ed

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PinoyDelS0l &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alright ladies and gents, well as i was driving my del sol today on the long island expressway in NY. I hit a slope on the highway and my lower control arm fell off my car. The bushing is still there, but i need to know what bolt and screw size do i need? Its the part that connect the LCA onto my cars wheel. Not the suspension part. Please help i just need to know the bolt and nut size i need that goes through the bushing. Thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

heh the L.I.E. will without a doubt do that lol

its horrible

PinoyDelS0l

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by k0rupt_ed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

heh the L.I.E. will without a doubt do that lol

its horrible</TD></TR></TABLE> Dude all those bumps and slops and pot holes F'ed up my whole cars suspension.. and than the my rusty bolt on the LCA snapped off and it took like a good 2 hours until a tow truck came through. I think im just going to go to home depot and get a new 14mm bolt and washers and nuts and call it a day.. My whole thread on the trailing arm is stripped so i have to drill the rest of the stuck bolt out of the trailing arm. Do you guys know what pitch i should get for the 14mm?

k0rupt_ed

iTrader: (1)

i hear you man, i gotta do all the bushings and ball joints in the front

itsmejto

That bolt is 10mmx1.25 pitch, (most honda suspension bolts are 1.25 pitch) also its a grade 10.9 (metric hardened high tensile steel) which you won't find at Lowes etc. They do have grade 8.8 which is as close as you will find unless you go to a specialist bolt vender on line. Also good luck drilling it out without dammaging the threads or even using a 100 drill bits, they are "HARD AS HELL". If you maybe have enough sticking out to get hold of with a good quality pair of large vice grips, squirt it with plenty penatrating oil (not wd40) and pray to the Honda god it moves. Don't forget a good washer and loctite on the threads.
Be a bit more specific about exactly which bolt broke.









Modified by itsmejto at 8:39 AM 9/7/2008

FRU

if you are talking about the bolt in the rear that connects the rear lca to the trailing arm then yes there is no nut because it is welded to the trailing arm. i have broken these multiple times when doing suspension work. your best bet is to go buy a new bolt from honda. as far as trying to get the rest of the bolt out of the welded on nut give it a try with vise grips but i can almost guarantee that it will not come out. get out the sawzall and hack that welded on nut off as cleanly as possible and then file it flat with the trailing arm. then take your new honda bolt to the hardware store and find a nut that threads on. i believe its 12X1.25 but don't quote me. its also a lot easier to just buy some new aftermarket lca's for 100 bucks than it is to try and press new bushings into the stock ones. good luck.

ian_b16

if the bolt broke and you are drilling it out (witch i have had to do many times) i doesnt really matter what the thread pitch is. as long as the bolt and nut mach you will be good.

PinoyDelS0l

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FRU &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you are talking about the bolt in the rear that connects the rear lca to the trailing arm then yes there is no nut because it is welded to the trailing arm. i have broken these multiple times when doing suspension work. your best bet is to go buy a new bolt from honda. as far as trying to get the rest of the bolt out of the welded on nut give it a try with vise grips but i can almost guarantee that it will not come out. get out the sawzall and hack that welded on nut off as cleanly as possible and then file it flat with the trailing arm. then take your new honda bolt to the hardware store and find a nut that threads on. i believe its 12X1.25 but don't quote me. its also a lot easier to just buy some new aftermarket lca's for 100 bucks than it is to try and press new bushings into the stock ones. good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE> the bushings on my LCA is still good. I just need a new bolt thats really it. But ill post pictures up so you guys know what im talking about..

PinoyDelS0l

heres the picture of the aftermath.

itsmejto

Then the bolt is a 10mmx70mmx1.25 thread pitch high tensile strength flanged bolt and grade 10.9. with an integrated nylon peg locking slug near the end of the thread.

You will get one at lowes (they have 8.8 grade) but it won't be the correct strength but will get you arround if you stay out the pot holes.
Using inferior grade bolts in critical areas like this is asking for major problems, there's a reason they are high strangth bolts.
I broke nearly all of em when I rebuilt my del sol suspension so I have a few.
PM me your full address and I'll pop one in the mail for you.
I'll also include one slightly longer with a nut in case you ferk up the trailing arm hole.

That particular bolt is highly stressed at the best of times and there should be no slop in any of the holes in the spindle bracket, if there is, you might think about having a washer of the correct size spot welded, if the other hole is "wallered out"

Remember, locktite is out friend (most of the time)





Modified by itsmejto at 5:24 PM 9/9/2008

slicedbreadno2

That sucks man I would send my bill to the NY department of transportation for leaving roads messed up and not fixing them.

PinoyDelS0l

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slicedbreadno2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That sucks man I would send my bill to the NY department of transportation for leaving roads messed up and not fixing them.</TD></TR></TABLE> Yeah, i would do that! But Ny would careless about that. All there roads everywhere is all messed up. I need like half the city to hear me out in order for the DOT to do something about all there roads lol.

Archidictus

With an accident like that one, I would check the subframe to make sure it didn't get bent out of shape from the hub-side LCA end hitting the ground at speed. If it's all messed up, the car will never handle properly again.

Any 14mm Honda nut will work in place of the welded nut (I have to do it all the time), but I would use a Honda bolt specifically for the rear LCAs, as it's an important connection

Did you do suspension work recently?

PinoyDelS0l

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With an accident like that one, I would check the subframe to make sure it didn't get bent out of shape from the hub-side LCA end hitting the ground at speed. If it's all messed up, the car will never handle properly again.

Any 14mm Honda nut will work in place of the welded nut (I have to do it all the time), but I would use a Honda bolt specifically for the rear LCAs, as it's an important connection

Did you do suspension work recently?</TD></TR></TABLE> The last time i worked on my sol suspension was a good year ago. Nothing seems bent or nothing.

94EG8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FRU &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">as far as trying to get the rest of the bolt out of the welded on nut give it a try with vise grips but i can almost guarantee that it will not come out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Usually theres enough of the bolt that cames out the other side of the welded nut that you can either grab it with vice grips, or better yet a miniature pipe wrench (these things are awesome, if you have the room to swing one they grab way better than vice grips. Or you can weld a nut to the end of the bolt and then put an impact on it.

PinoyDelS0l

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94EG8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Usually theres enough of the bolt that cames out the other side of the welded nut that you can either grab it with vice grips, or better yet a miniature pipe wrench (these things are awesome, if you have the room to swing one they grab way better than vice grips. Or you can weld a nut to the end of the bolt and then put an impact on it.</TD></TR></TABLE> I think im just going to drill the seized bolt out and than im going to get my dremel and slice the welds of the nut and than break it off with my breaker bar... Hopefully that will do the trick.

h22bb1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PinoyDelS0l &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">heres the picture of the aftermath. </TD></TR></TABLE>

aray!